Tire sizes and gear binding

ProbablyBroke

ProbablyBroke

does not torque to spec
Joined
Nov 7, 2012
Location
Reidsville
im curious about how actual measured tire size affects gears to the point that they bind. Most of my stuff is cobbled together junk, and rarely do the fronts and rears have equal amounts of tread. I recently purchased a parts truck with 37" front Iroks that looked like balloons and nearly new 37" boggers with rigid side walls in the rear. I would imagine at least an inch difference in measured height on the truck.

I'd like to know how much difference it takes between front and rear tires on a 4x4 vehicle with a welded rear, and ratchet locker front axle , to cause binding of the t case or ring and pinion.

Let's hear it.
 
I figure it’s a non issue on the trail. It’d be a real problem on pavement with traction at all 4 corners.
 
Only a problem if the tcase is engaged on pavement.

If it’s in 2wd, it’s a non issue.

Won’t matter Offroad.

To compare accurately, measure the circumference of each tire. Can adjust tire psi to alleviate some for pavement use. But in rwd only, doesn’t matter.
 
I'm talking 4wd engaged. I have a set of new 38" tsl, and a set of 37" boggers. I'd run some mullet tires (tsl in the front and boggers in the back) if it wouldn't grenade everything I own.
 
What's the actual questions here; are you trying to drive on dry pavement with 4WD engaged?

The answer is that there isn't much driveline lash/slack, so it's going to take a few tire revolutions or less to take the slack out. Differences in front/rear tire pressure and weight distribution will already change the tire effective radius enough to take the slack out on pavement pretty quickly.. That's in a straight line, not even in a turn with a welded rear diff to further complicate things.

This is with tires that are all the same, not with mix-and-match brands/sizes/whatever stuff you're talking about.

You're basically asking "What happens if I put different gear ratios in my front and rear diffs?"....
 
On dirt you’re fine. Run a few more psi in the rear. Usually, it’s lighter back there to begin with. It won’t be an issue for short pavement trips. On long pavement trips, such as in and out of windrock, take the front out of gear.
MULLET ON.
 
My question is " will running a different size tire with an effective diameter plus or minus an inch, cause gear binding?" The application would be a sub 3000# buggy with a welded rear end and ratchet locker front. 4 wheel engaged 80% of the time.

I know and understand it's not ideal, but can't help but wonder what's the margin for malfunction.
 
I don’t think you’ll have a problem I popped to rear tires and all I could find was a set of Mickey 35s the front had tsl 36.5s and it was never an issue
 
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