TJ Parasitic Draw

HANO

HANO

meh.
Joined
Sep 16, 2006
Location
Myrtle Beach
2001 TJ 4.0 Automatic 50,000 Miles
Power using add-ons.... Winch, Rocklights w/ relay, ARB compressor Pump.

I have a yellow top optima that when fully charged, will be drained to the point of barely turning over in roughly 5-7 days. Using a test light, I have found a sort of rhythmic parasitic draw that flashes bright then dim and so on and so forth when using the test light.

I have pulled every fuse under the dash to no-avail, however in the fuse distribution center under the hood, the fuse that controls much of the electrical activity to the dash board and surronding area, when pulled cuts out the rhythmic draw, however the odometer will then flash no fuse.

All that to say this, I have disconnected every add-on, one at a time with no luck, checked underneath the dash again with no luck. Can I install a battery disconnect switch such as the ones I have used in the past for dirt trackcars (Moroso) or a general marine use disconnect? I care nothing about the time being right or radio stations being saved, I do believe however that it will put the computer into a learning mode each time I completely disconnect the battery,but will it harm any other device and or the computer?

The rig is towed to the trails, but occasionally driven during the week as well. I know the switch is a band-aid, but I have had no luck finding the problem and I am getting tired of pulling the battery charger out every week when Im ready to run down to the beach or getting ready for the trail.

Whats the word, is the switch harmful to a newer computer system, or a easy soulution to a aggravating problem..?
J.R.
 
Disconnecting the battery will reset the OBD2 system causing it to have to be driven thru a few drive cycles to be able to pass inspection.

Use a DVOM on amps setting, see how many amps ( micro, milli whatever) are being drawn.

Just out of curiosity, drive the vehicle for a day, let it sit for a day, then drive it again, with less than 3/4 tank of fuel. the check the OBD codes, see if there is an EVAP code pending.

Might have a purge solinoid sticking, or something else in the EVAP not shutting off, and it won't set the light cause the battery dies before the next restart.

Keep in mind, OBD2 vehicles are still operating HOURS after shutdown, but if things are working right, you'll never notice.

EVAP systyem is the most likely system to cause problems once the key is off because that is when it does the most work.

Just a few suggestions
 
Thanks.

Inspection is no big deal as I am in SC. I have driven it for the last 3 days without any noticable problem, no codes, no sputters, no slow starts. However when sitting for a short length of time, those 5 days or so, is when the problem surfaces. I will check into the EVAP system though. Thanks again.

J.R.
 
mine does the same thing (ever since Dave flopped it)...

I've tried to crank it every 2-4 days and let it run for a bit...then got tired of that and bought one of those jumpstart boxes instead of a charger...:)

I haven't even started checking the fuses...but I'll keep an eye on how you fix yours...:D

Greg
 
braxton357 said:
Try a different battery. Optimas suck for holding a charge.
Click to expand...
Really? I have a red top, and I left the switch on for about a month. The battery was so dead it would not even begin to burn the parking lights. I charged it for about 8 hours, had Advance test it, and have not had a single problem since.
 
It could be the battery. My red top had gone bad and was doing the same thing. Got a new one free and it's ok now.

Try taking the battery out of the jeep and setting it on your work bench. If the battery drains down then you need a new battery.

:beer:
 
I've had alternators cause a parasitic draw like that. And combined with the fact that the PCM controls the 2nd field on the alternator it may be causing the pulsating..

Simple test is to get it all charged up again and simply unplug the alternator and do your amp draw test again..
 
Starter is likely full of wet mud as well as alternator. Depending on wiring, they can be good parasites and may be protected by fusable links and not replaceable fuses. So, pulling fuses will not guarantee total parasite checking on all vehicles.

My $0.02
 
Now that I am home from work, I will throw the battery on the charger and get back to looking at the draw problem. Thanks for the input, I do appreciate it.


JR
 
SEAIRESCUE said:
Starter is likely full of wet mud
Click to expand...
x2.
I had this on a GM truck once. Went through the entire electrical system, probably a dozen times. Issue was starter, once it was replaced problem went away.
Interestingly enough I had the same surge-off-surge-off fluctuation.
I never really scratched my head enough to determine the logic behind it, only know the someone suggested starter, I test lighted it, had problem, disconnected starter no problem, hooked starter back up problem returned, replaced starter problem never came back
 
honestly, if you cant find the issue, and park it in the sun, i would look into a solar trickle charger
 
As I start down the list... I removed the negative cable from the battery, used a 12 volt test light to complete the circuit, when connected, I see the bright to dim rhythmic flash, AND I also hear a noise coming from my gauge cluster, I inspect the noise and notice my tach, my spedo, and the various other gauges all have their needles jumping in time to the flash and the noise. I will investigate further, but figured I would post this up just in case it may throw up a flag to anybody...
Tried the multi-meter, however because of the change in intensity of the draw, my digital readout is difficult to...uh... read.
JR


 
try disconnecting the cluster. Maybe it's got a problem. good luck.
 
I worked on car stereos and 12v electronics for about 12 years and have seen things like this before. If the battery is dead that can cause the electronics to flicker causing the light to flash as they come on and off. Also you have to remember that the yellow top is a deep cycle. Ive run into problems with the stock charging system charging these to their full capacity when you are using other electronic things at the same time. From what I understand and I might be wrong but those batteries are made to be drained and then brought back to full. Driving the car wont do that cause you are using power to run the cars electronics. On my 90 YJ I noticed a big difference in the volt gauge between a stock battery and a yellow top. I went to a red top and had no problems. Just going out and starting it a couple times a month wont charge it back up enough after turning the starter like a stock battery.

Hope that helps
 
rythmic,gauge cluster...

turn signal flasher? Cant imagine how it could cause this...but see if it keeps time with teh TS
 
Other question is this, why do the gauges (instrument cluster) jump only when the I use the test light to complete the circuit, but not when the negative terminal is attached completing the circuit?

Any other way to determine draw without removing the battery cables?

JR

Again, thanks for all of your time helping me diagnose this problem.
 
Using the test light you arent making a full connection. The flow is going through the small filliment in the buld causing the computer to see minimal power. Thats probally why it happens with the test light and not by connceting the cable. Even onr of the little dash security lights can cause the test light to flash. How old is that battery? It could have a bad cell not allowing it to fully charge but read it on the little meter on the charger.
 
HANO said:
Other question is this, why do the gauges (instrument cluster) jump only when the I use the test light to complete the circuit, but not when the negative terminal is attached completing the circuit?
Any other way to determine draw without removing the battery cables?
JR
Again, thanks for all of your time helping me diagnose this problem.
Click to expand...

You're almost certainly hearing a relay turning on and off because of the poor connection using the test light, especially if the clicking is quite a bit faster than a turn signal's. Does your tj have an underhood light, or do you have your doors open while testing? What does the multimeter say for max amp draw?
 
first throw that test light away use your dvm and test milliamp draw you will need to connect it and let it sit a while to get an acurate reading because your ecm will go to rest leave everything off 50ma or less is normal the clicking is most likley a relay that is malf. due to the low current of your test light . your battery is most likley crap gell cell batterys do not like to sit and it will cook them if charged to fast no more than 10a. however they have no memory effect when drained if you still have a draw start pulling, unpluging ,just dont spend $ till you find the problem
 
Appreciate the responses. I will go back through it again tomm. Thanks for everybody's time on this.

JR
 
novacayne75 said:
\ however they have no memory effect when drained
Click to expand...

I'm going to have to disagree. Optimas are just about the worst batteries ever for taking a charge after dying. I've heard of people throwing them on a concrete floor a few times then trickle charging after having them sit dead and sulfate, but in general they suck. Also, the optima isn't a gell cell battery...it's lead/acid like most others, just an AGM battery. I'm a fan of the wal mart everstart batts and will probably buy an odyssey if I ever feel like spending some real money. I've returned too many optimas...


Sorry for the offtopic.:flipoff2: And I do agree with everything else said novacayne.
 
Swap a battery out from your other vehicle just to try it out. Ten minutes tops to eliminate the speculation about the battery, however if indeed it is a deep cycle battery, might be better getting a cranking battery. Incomplete discharge/charge cycles will eventualy kill a deep cycle (OK, no I don't know jack about Optima and don't own one, but do know about deep cycles in boating applications).

Unrelated cause of my battery drain problem: Wifey's car: Escalade, stoopid OnStar lost it's mind and wanted to unlock the doors constantly, so the unlock relays stayed energized all the time. Tracked it down with an ammeter. Then I discover there is a TSB on this vehicle for this very problem. Fortunately, no OnStar in Jeeps, 'cause we don't care to know where we are!
 
I don't believe no one has said this yet.

For starters (no pun intended) you don't test for a draw with a test light on the negative side. You put it in series (much like you have it in the pic) on the POSITIVE side.

I know this seems backwards - but
You are looking for current going to a ground (via some gage or accessory etc)
In order for the offending device to have a ground - the ground lead must be hooked up. Your test light is supplying power to the system, and IF there is a ground (AKA short or draw) it will light.

Your procedure has been fine otherwise. Just change your test light to the positive side and retest. You will find you get much different results.

FWIW - I think the pulsing you are getting is the gage voltage regulator pulsating - it is upset because it doesn't have a good ground in your test setup. That is a pretty normal reaction.

Having said all that, I am going to go along with some of the others who have said it sounds like your battery is on its way out.

Good luck and be sure to post up a fix once you find it.
 
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