Tow rig help

diver552

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2006
Location
Shallotte
I have a 18ft 14k equipment trailer that I plan on hauling my Jeep back and forth with among other things but that would likely be as much weight as I would put on it. I lost the transmission and the transfer case on the 2003 Silverado 2500hd on the way from IL to NC recently. Since the repair bill will be fairly high and I’m new to trailering, my question is what else will safely pull this trailer and jeep a possibly across the country at times? It might be cheaper for me to replace than repair. What will work? Suburban? Tahoe? Truck only? Thank you in advance!

Oh and I can’t buy new…and can’t spend a fortune. I just need to know if 1/2 ton or Tahoe/suburban or similar is adequate. Gas vs diesel? I can wrench on gas, diesel I know very little about, but I’m not opposed to it. I really don’t need this much trailer I don’t think but it was free to me so thats what I have. Also this will be more than a tow rig. Will be used for travel possibly. Thanks again
 
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Is your 2500 a 6.0, 8.1 or Duramax? If the truck is in good condition and doesn't have a bunch of other issues/needs then it would probably be wiser/cheaper to fix your truck and keep towing with it.

I personally prefer a 3/4 or 1 ton truck vs a 1/2 ton. Another good option is the 3/4 ton Suburbans, I prefer the 8.1 over the 6.0 unless you get new enough to get the 6L80 vs the 4L80 but the 6.0 is the only available engine when they get to that point.

A truck is a good multi-purpose option that can tow, make a trash or Home Depot trip to load up the bed and is the only option if you ever get a gooseneck camper or trailer.

2500 Suburban is also a great multi-purpose option that is better for hauling more people, has more dry storage, doesn't require weighted tags in NC and can tow basically the same as a similar 2500 truck.
 
To add to my previous post, I've owned a 99 Suburban 1500 5.7 4x4, a 99 Ram 3500 5.9 Cummins 4x4, a 2001 Suburban 2500 8.1 4x4, a 2016 GMC 3500 6.0 4x4, a 2015 F250 6.7 4x4, a 2004 Ram 3500 5.9 Cummins 2wd and currently own a 2015 Ram 3500 6.7 4x4.

Super happy with the current truck and no plans to ever replace it but I do miss my 01 2500 Burb with the 8.1. It was great for pulling my crawler on an open trailer and the wife and I would camp in the back of it.
 
In this market you’re probably a lot better off fixing what you got. I’m assuming transfer case rub is what happened to the T case? Common for the chain to wear a hole in the case.

I have a 2500HD with the 8.1 and I love it. It’ll be for sale soon possibly but I kinda dread it as it’s been a fantastic truck. 436k and counting on the original motor/trans
 
Sorry it is the LB7 duramax. So it needs injectors, transfer case and waiting on repair place about transmission. Will update after that.

Transfer case is from the rub. I just picked the truck up 4 days ago in Illinois. It was a company truck from the family with 227k on it. Relatively good shape. Has some body damage and a bit of rocker rust through. Otherwise pretty decent.

Thank you all for your replies.
 
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Personally from living in the rust belt I would not own a truck from there that has been on the roads one winter. Had a few and had too many problems. Rusted out brake lines, fuel pump sending unit rusted out, shock bolt breaking off just a pia for normal maintenance. If you are going to go across country towing anything 3/4 ton would be the way to go. 1/2 ton Small blocks can pull the weight but they are maxed out. In my opinion for any mountains. And so is the rest of the truck, brakes cooling etc. Towing over the rockies I was surprised how much powe the deisel lost at higher elevations
 
StretchASU said:
All of those factors I would unload it and get a similar generation 6.0 or 8.1 truck.
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I tend to agree with this. And if you’re wanting to go cross country on some long trips I’d consider getting as nice a truck as you can possibly get
 
Yep, I'd dump the current truck due to rust. I personally can deal with alot of issues, especially mechanical issues since I work on my own stuff but rust is 100% a deal breaker especially on something that I was going to count on as a tow rig.
 
Thank you for all the responses. The truck was also free to me and frankly it isn’t t very rust. Just on the cab rockers. From what I have seen they all seem to do this. Even NC trucks. Trust me I grew up there and do my best to avoid rust on anything now. Until I know the repair cost I won’t know what is the best move money-wise since everything is high now. Cross country driving would be to maybe pulling my Jeep once if I moved. Other than that if I traveled it would be pulling anything. Guess I needed way more info. Thanks again for the responses. This forum is awesome. You guys are always so helpful. Thanks so much.
 
The very best towing truck I have owned was a 2002 8.1 with an Allison transmission. From what I know from the one I had and from others who had them, Water pump around 130 or so K, and keep fluids and filters changed on the Allison and you're good to go. I loved how it towed, and I was pulling a 22' 14K trailer, with a total of around 11K loaded including the trailer. Hills around the blue ridge and Smokey Mnts, , will it just laughed at them! It does seem T-case belt slap is an issue with them all, so, changing out the T-case belt should be a regular thing at around 130 or so K I'd think. I have seen some where the whole t case had to be replaced, and some just the back half, and others, were just tig welded up and repaired. If maintenance has been disregarded on the Allison, that can run into BIG money.
 
upnover said:
The very best towing truck I have owned was a 2002 8.1 with an Allison transmission.
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It's a little sad right about now. Haven't started it in a while since I don't need to tow.
I got brand new oil cooler and transmission lines for it I'll try to swap eventually.
 
FWIW, you can likely get a built transmission cheaper than what some shop would charge you for a stock rebuild.

My 02 LB7 has been sitting for about 6 months waiting on me to gather funds for a new transmission. So, I feel your pain.
 
I had an 2001 LB7. Absolutely loved that truck but it had leaky head gaskets and I needed a true 4 door.

To answer one of your other questions, would a half ton tahoe/suburban do what you're wanting? Yes, but you won't enjoy it. Either get a light trailer or a bigger truck. I've pulled my camper with 2005 1500 yukon xl 5.3 and 2005 2500 yukon xl 6.0 and there's absolutely no comparison. They both pull it fine, bit the 1500 on coils doesn't handle the weight well.
 
Thank you for all the responses. I’m still waiting to hear more. Transmission place is pretty busy. I’ll check in it built if that is what it needs. Out of curiosity where would I look for one of those? New to the diesel game…not a great start. Lol Thanks for the tip!

I would have loved a lighter trailer but it is what I have for now. Maybe someday. This trailer will probably only be pulled a few times a year from the coast to Uwharrie maybe a bit farther. That is my intended usage for it at this point. Maybe to get house or yard supplies that won’t fit on my 10’ utility. That would likely be rare though. Would an Excursion live happily in front of this trailer or not?

Thanks again to all of you
 
Hop on the ol' Facebook. Look up Dmitri Millard or No Zone transmissions. Literal lifetime warranty. Build to hold the capacity of the stock shafts (750hp) tripple disc, Goerend converter. 5300 bucks, I think? Plus freight. Or you can buy his rebuild kit for 3500 plus shipping. Still lifetime warranty.
 
For the love of God stay away from Dimitiri Millard.. that scam artist has been screwing people over for 10+ years.

Have you considered rebuilding the transmission yourself?
I bought a kit from limitless diesel and rebuilt it myself. Never been in a transmission before and it's still holding 40k miles later in a 600hp+ twin turbo lml

Last time I checked, the local dealer had the best price and warranty on a transfer case.
 
He's not the same dude he used to be.
 
Trust me...I remember seeing all the stuff. It takes a lot to make me change my mind.

Just FWIW, here's a parts list comparison. Kinda follows suit too. Evan wouldn't really tell me much on the phone. I'd still buy from him if I needed to though.

With the same converter (Goerend DK), Evan's kit is 3745. The No Zone is 3630. So the prices aren't far off. You do get a whole new pump, wiring, and internal electronics though...which is nice.

Screenshot_20220416-144551_Samsung Internet.jpg


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So it looks like I am dodging a bullet, according to our local transmission place the transfer case, driveshaft yolk and u-joint are the only things that are shot. So at least at this point the transmission okay. At least it will be cheaper. Also doing a trans service at the same time. Just having them do it since the labor is reasonable and I don’t have a hoist. Wishful thinking that maybe someday lol

Thank you all for your help! I’ll update this when it is fixed if any of you are curious how this turns out.
 
If it turns out to be more, I will take a look at the rebuild. I don’t know much about automatics so not sure if I would tackle that myself. Not even sure how I would get it in and out of the vehicle. I imagine it is a heavy transmission.
 
Any advice on where to get injectors from? I see some with lift pumps and other stuff in the kits from Lincoln diesel. (Only place I’ve looked so far) Thoughts on what needs replaced on these trucks at the time of the injectors?


Thanks again
 
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I truly hope Dimitri has changed his ways. He still screwed people out of tens of thousands of dollars and left multiple trucks stranded. OP needs to be aware.

Regardless if either of you decide to rebuild yourself, I still have the directions from limitless yall can borrow if needed.

As far as injectors Lincoln Diesel Specialities has been the go to place for awhile. That's where I got my lbz injectors. Usually they have some kit with all the extra gaskets and parts.
Pull every injector cup out, clean and reseal it. Probably gonna have to replace some of the rubber fuel lines in the valley.
 
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