towing with 3500 van
- Thread starter jdubb
- Start date
rodney eppes
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- Joined
- Feb 3, 2010
- Location
- Mt.Holly NC 28120
Generally the longer the wheel base, the better the stability! Probably got plenty of brake power, but many passenger vans, don't have much rear spring rating. Might sag & sway.
Then comes the "Power" problem. What's under the bonnet? Whatever gasser, is Probably weak. Now the Cummins, would be Great!
Then comes the "Power" problem. What's under the bonnet? Whatever gasser, is Probably weak. Now the Cummins, would be Great!
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2005
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
I've been looking at them. The 1-tons have 7000# rear axle capacities. Probably do just fine. The Chevies seem nicer than the Fords. The last Dodge van I drove was a 92, I think. It was all right. Typical 1980s Chrysler interior, though.
DSM Turbos
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- Joined
- Feb 25, 2006
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
zuke
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2012
- Location
- Stafford, VA
I'm currently towing with a 2000 Ram 2500 twelve passenger, I've towed with 15 passenger vans too, there is little noticeable difference from the extra length of the 15 passenger, because the wheelbase is still the same. I like backing up with the 15 passenger more, because it seems to turn the trailer quicker, but that would probably be more personal preference.
Because the Dodge is a unibody, you'll have a hard time finding a hitch for it rated for the tow rating of the Van, I'm using a Curt that is rated for 6000lb, however it is rated for 8000lb with an equalizer hitch, which I'm using.
I've got a 360 (5.9L) in mine, and it's got more than enough power for towing, I run up and down the Shenandoahs with it reguarly, and it pulls hard and consistent, I've towed with the 318 in one, and it doesn't have enough power for an 8000lb load.
The brakes are good enough for the job, but it feels way better with good brakes on the trailer too
It likely has 3.92 or lower gearing in it already, so you'll probably be good there.
Lastly, Look up under the back where the "frame rails" attach to the body, lots of times the passengers in the back seat (Kids) spill sodas and other lovely corrosive liquids on the carpet that never get cleaned up, leading to rust through the floor boards above the rails, the rail itself is beefy and generally doesn't rust from that, but you don't want holes in the floor boards there...
Because the Dodge is a unibody, you'll have a hard time finding a hitch for it rated for the tow rating of the Van, I'm using a Curt that is rated for 6000lb, however it is rated for 8000lb with an equalizer hitch, which I'm using.
I've got a 360 (5.9L) in mine, and it's got more than enough power for towing, I run up and down the Shenandoahs with it reguarly, and it pulls hard and consistent, I've towed with the 318 in one, and it doesn't have enough power for an 8000lb load.
The brakes are good enough for the job, but it feels way better with good brakes on the trailer too
It likely has 3.92 or lower gearing in it already, so you'll probably be good there.
Lastly, Look up under the back where the "frame rails" attach to the body, lots of times the passengers in the back seat (Kids) spill sodas and other lovely corrosive liquids on the carpet that never get cleaned up, leading to rust through the floor boards above the rails, the rail itself is beefy and generally doesn't rust from that, but you don't want holes in the floor boards there...
it has a 2" hitch on it. how do I know if its rated? Stickers or how its mounted? I did not know it was uni-body. I also do not like the huge single hung back door. Seems like a perfect solution to hauling a Jeep and camping if it is capable
zuke
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2012
- Location
- Stafford, VA
Stickers/model Numbers are the best way to know how it's rated. Almost any hitch made for it is a Class III, But ratings seem to vary from 4500 to 6000lbs on those (6500lb to 8000lb with equalizer, but some don't give any increase for equalizers)
It should have at least two bolts into each of the "Frame" Rails, and attach to the bumper bolts, if it doesn't, then it's only a Classs II hitch, but I've honestly never seen a Class II hitch on a Ram van...
The Single hung doors suck, you can't really use them with a trailer hooked up. I look for ones with the barn doors, but if you get a great deal on this van, it might be worth dealing with it.
Camping and Wheeling is the reason I run Vans, I set up a platform at 18" inches, and put a memory foam mattress on it, gives me just the right height to slide all the gear under the platform, and I use plastic storage bins with holes drilled in them for a paracord string so I can pull them all to the back to unload without having to roll under the platform myself. It's nice to be able to arrive at a wheeling venue at 1am and just go to bed, then setup camp the next day...
It should have at least two bolts into each of the "Frame" Rails, and attach to the bumper bolts, if it doesn't, then it's only a Classs II hitch, but I've honestly never seen a Class II hitch on a Ram van...
The Single hung doors suck, you can't really use them with a trailer hooked up. I look for ones with the barn doors, but if you get a great deal on this van, it might be worth dealing with it.
Camping and Wheeling is the reason I run Vans, I set up a platform at 18" inches, and put a memory foam mattress on it, gives me just the right height to slide all the gear under the platform, and I use plastic storage bins with holes drilled in them for a paracord string so I can pull them all to the back to unload without having to roll under the platform myself. It's nice to be able to arrive at a wheeling venue at 1am and just go to bed, then setup camp the next day...