toyota dual case rear driveshaft options?

wildrice

wildrice

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Location
Washington, NC
What are yall toyota guys running for a rear driveshaft, when you have dual cases? I have an 86 4runner I built and put duals on it, and shortened my driveshaft. And got bad vibration. So I thought CV. Well I got a quote for a 1310 Spicer, but a few people told me that was a weak design. I've got 18° of driveshaft sitting still, and 40" length between flanges.
 
wildrice said:
What are yall toyota guys running for a rear driveshaft, when you have dual cases? I have an 86 4runner I built and put duals on it, and shortened my driveshaft. And got bad vibration. So I thought CV. Well I got a quote for a 1310 Spicer, but a few people told me that was a weak design. I've got 18° of driveshaft sitting still, and 40" length between flanges.
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I've heard of a lot of guys lengthening front drive shafts from solid axle trucks (CV) and using them in the rear. I spoke w/ Jesse over at High Angle Driveline a while back when I couldn't decided on single 4.7 or duals and he was telling me he does a lot of those for people running duals.
 
Yea I did the IFS driveshaft mod in the front to make it. Flex more.. I have never cussed more in my. Life trying to get that thing apart and back together. I swore I would never do that again haha
 
I have an 86 X-Tra cab , I used a piece of 0.25 wall pipe , and a carpenters square , and it doesn't vibrate , but maybe the extra 10-12 inches of wheel base is why . that was ten years ago and it has yet to fail , I did once drive it 150 miles round trip on i77 , I didnt notice any vibration , but I did take my time and made sure it was true and square
 
Your angle isn't crazy and it's plenty long. Sounds like you either didn't get something true or the shaft isn't balanced. Do you have the yokes phased right? Do the angles at the tcase and axle ends match?
 
I got a local driveshaft shop to just shorten the shaft I had. It looks correct and I installed it phased like the one in my other truck. The tcase angle is 5° and the axle is 7° measured by putting an angle finder on the flange face. The shop didn't balence it that I am aware of, but everyone I have asked said this shop does great work and never had any balance issues.. I figured I would just do the double cardin route but I am not 100%
 
wildrice said:
I got a local driveshaft shop to just shorten the shaft I had. It looks correct and I installed it phased like the one in my other truck. The tcase angle is 5° and the axle is 7° measured by putting an angle finder on the flange face. The shop didn't balence it that I am aware of, but everyone I have asked said this shop does great work and never had any balance issues.. I figured I would just do the double cardin route but I am not 100%
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Your angles don't match, if it's not the problem then it deffinately doesn't help.
 
So you think I should shim the pinion down 2° so that the face angles match. My vibration is basically between 55-65mph.... Edit.. Actually, I need to look st this more carefully.. The transfer case is tilted down 5° and the rear end is tilted up 7° how does that happen, I didn't change the axle perches or the angle of the transmission. I guess Tacoma is 7° instead of 5° like the older stuff.
 
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Under acceleration the pinion is going tj rotate up more. You sure you don't have any play in a joint or yoke or the pinion nut loose? Almost every manufacturer uses a single joint driveshaft in the rear not a double cardan. You have something else causing the vibration not just because you only have single joints.

If you do go to double cardan just know they don't operate at as great of an angle as a single and you will have to rotate the pinion up so the driveshaft and pinion shaft are straight in line with each other.
 
All of the pinion, and tailshaft and things are tight and freshly rebuilt. The driveshaft I had cut down was an old rusty one I got in a junkyard, and truthfully it is probably out of balance. Along with the 2° that the drivetrane flanges are off. I am thinking that I am gonna go thru the trouble of getting that 2° fixed and the shaft balanced I may as well get an 85 yota front shaft, and send it to Oliver's to have it gone thru and lengthened to 40". Then I can just do the perches and be done
 
New perches welded on w yoke pointed at t case output. Use an ifs front shaft for the DC. Measure flange to flange and have the shop balance it. Never had any problems on several of these.
 
frankenyoter said:
New perches welded on w yoke pointed at t case output.
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So do you. Point the axle flange directly at the t-case flange perfectly? Or allow for the distance of the first knuckle of the DC.. Or am I over thinking it and it's not that critical. I have an 85 front shaft I scored, and it is headed to Oliver's very soon. It is 40" from flange to flange on my t-case and axle
 
I pointed axle flange to tease flange. My extra cab has duals and although I haven't gotten above 45mph (due to old unbalanced tires) there has been no driveline vibes that I can tell.
 
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OK my newly modified shaft just came in from Oliver's driveline! Kudos boys it looks great, and shipped in less than 24hrs to my door. And thanks paulevans76 for facilitating the driveshaft pick-up and drop-off.
Now with rotating the axle upward, should I add extra gear oil to keep the pinion bearing sitting in oil? And if so, how much oil?
 
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I've driven mine into a ditch or off a bank to put the rear pion flat and get the fill level correct. Just fill it as much as you can and then drive it I to a hole and cap it off. GTG
 
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