im thinking about putting a elocker in the rear of my 92. I know its been done, but how hard is it to mod the rear housing to fit an elocker. also how hard is it to wire up. Does anyone want to do it for me if the price is right?! Am i better off finding a whole elocker axle and just swap them?
toyota e lockers
- Thread starter 92yotaman
- Start date
SHINTON
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2005
- Location
- Triad area of NC
RatLabGuy
You look like a monkey and smell like one too
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Location
- Churchville, MD
more good info on the wiring here
http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mods/locker/
and regarding the wiring, on the 4x4wire link, at the bottom tehre is an "alternate" diagram that simplifies it greatly, if you just use only a 30A DPDT omemntary on-off-on switch, no relays or extra crap needed. I did this and it worked well, switch is $5 at Radio Shack.
The wiring is really not that hard, for me the biggest pain actually was figuring out how to route the wires into the cabin.
if you are REALLY lazy, you really only need 2 wires, going to the single 2-wire plug, that runs the motor, can use a momentary switch, and just hold it for 2 secs at a tiem and NEVER any more.
As for the install - all the PITA is associated w/ retrofitting the axle. There are 2 things that are the primary pain. First is that you have to weld some extra metal onto the flange, then grind it flat. OK, that's easy. But THEN, you have to drill and tap some new holes for studs... and you have to tap them perfectly straight, otherwise when you putteh stud on, the 3rd won't fit on it correctly.
I got around this by actually putting the 3rd in place, and running a really long bit through the hole shafts so I knew it lined up correctly.
You also have to cut a little notch out of the bottom for the larger gear to clear the flange. mroe grinder time... but don't overdo it or it will leak later.
Other thing that is kinda a pain is that there is a bolt thta dosn't *quite* clear against the back of the housing... you have to punch the housing out a little to make enough room. sounds easy... but getting that little bump punched out in JUST the right spot w/o breaking the housing is not trivial. I replaced the bolt w/ a low-profile headed one, and got the spot marked by dabbing some crayon on it, putting the unit in place, then seeing where crayon was left on the housing.
You just have to be prepared for a lot of lifting/trying to put the thing into place, then pulling it back out, finageling something, putting it back, adjusting something again, trying again... over and over until yoru arms hurt ;-) that sucker isn't light.
I did the whole thing in a weekend w/ the axle still under the truck, jacked it up as high as I could get it. Lots of sweating under there, lol.
IMO... if I were doing it again... I'd probably just get the whole axle from a TRD truck and swap the whole thing. Much less work, AND you get rear disc brakes at the same time. Supposedly the spring perches are slightly offset, but i've heard multipel folks say they line up well enough. I think the total width may be a tad more.
http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mods/locker/
and regarding the wiring, on the 4x4wire link, at the bottom tehre is an "alternate" diagram that simplifies it greatly, if you just use only a 30A DPDT omemntary on-off-on switch, no relays or extra crap needed. I did this and it worked well, switch is $5 at Radio Shack.
The wiring is really not that hard, for me the biggest pain actually was figuring out how to route the wires into the cabin.
if you are REALLY lazy, you really only need 2 wires, going to the single 2-wire plug, that runs the motor, can use a momentary switch, and just hold it for 2 secs at a tiem and NEVER any more.
As for the install - all the PITA is associated w/ retrofitting the axle. There are 2 things that are the primary pain. First is that you have to weld some extra metal onto the flange, then grind it flat. OK, that's easy. But THEN, you have to drill and tap some new holes for studs... and you have to tap them perfectly straight, otherwise when you putteh stud on, the 3rd won't fit on it correctly.
I got around this by actually putting the 3rd in place, and running a really long bit through the hole shafts so I knew it lined up correctly.
You also have to cut a little notch out of the bottom for the larger gear to clear the flange. mroe grinder time... but don't overdo it or it will leak later.
Other thing that is kinda a pain is that there is a bolt thta dosn't *quite* clear against the back of the housing... you have to punch the housing out a little to make enough room. sounds easy... but getting that little bump punched out in JUST the right spot w/o breaking the housing is not trivial. I replaced the bolt w/ a low-profile headed one, and got the spot marked by dabbing some crayon on it, putting the unit in place, then seeing where crayon was left on the housing.
You just have to be prepared for a lot of lifting/trying to put the thing into place, then pulling it back out, finageling something, putting it back, adjusting something again, trying again... over and over until yoru arms hurt ;-) that sucker isn't light.
I did the whole thing in a weekend w/ the axle still under the truck, jacked it up as high as I could get it. Lots of sweating under there, lol.
IMO... if I were doing it again... I'd probably just get the whole axle from a TRD truck and swap the whole thing. Much less work, AND you get rear disc brakes at the same time. Supposedly the spring perches are slightly offset, but i've heard multipel folks say they line up well enough. I think the total width may be a tad more.
Copied from Pirate
Toyota Rear Axle Widths:
55" wide, '79-85 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
58" wide, '86-95 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
56" wide, '79-95 2wd Trucks - 5 Lug
60.75" wide, '95.5-up Tacomas/4runners
66.75" wide, '93-98 T100 trucks
I`ve done 2 retrofits. One on the truck and the other off. It is a whole lot easier with it off! I did the relays with light and all.
Toyota Rear Axle Widths:
55" wide, '79-85 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
58" wide, '86-95 4wd trucks/4runners - 6 Lug
56" wide, '79-95 2wd Trucks - 5 Lug
60.75" wide, '95.5-up Tacomas/4runners
66.75" wide, '93-98 T100 trucks
I`ve done 2 retrofits. One on the truck and the other off. It is a whole lot easier with it off! I did the relays with light and all.
thanks guys those links helped. like i said ive seen it done but didn't know if it was worth it. It sounds like im going to find a trd truck and steal the rear axle. The wiring shouldn't be much of a hassle. imo its easier and better that a lockright or detroit in the rear. Im gonna call the pull-a-part in winston-salem this week and see if i can find a elocker axle.
StretchASU
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2006
- Location
- Creedmoor, NC/Claudville, VA
The old 4Runner I had has been DD'd for 35k miles with a rear Lock Right. No issues. Just do that. Cheaper and Easier.
Metto
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Cornelius, NC
ive built about 40 or 50 elocker diffs and at least 90% of them had a spun carrier bearing (the larger bearing on the locking collar side). for all the work thats involved with swapping one in correctly, i would install an ARB instead. if you truck didnt come from the factory with one, or if it wasnt a factory option, its really not worth it. at least if an ARB breaks (very rare if installed correctly), you can get parts for it. unless you know someone with a lot of elocker diffs around, you will not be able to get any parts for them except maybe case bolts.