Toyota knuckles

Ibayne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2016
Location
Fletcher
So after a few problems with marlins shipping I now have an issue with there axle rebuild kit. Watched one of the YouTube videos that Low range put out, also followed some directions on yota forums. My problem is my knuckle is sticking when it centered up. If you go from left to right right to left when it hits the center it sticks. Any ideas? I had one heck of a time getting the top steering arm on like to the point of a nut in each hole an pulled it down that way. Told marlin all my torque specs an preload an they say it’s fine it shouldn’t stick.... but it is. I’m afraid to take it apart cause I’m afraid it will destroy the bearing an marlin doesn’t sell just the bearing.... help
 
Have you changed axle shafts or is everything OEM?
 
It’d probably help to know just how much you did change. Seals, gaskets, felts, bearings and races? I know the last time I rebuilt my front axle, I used Mobil 1 full synthetic grease and it made my knuckle seem “sticky” until I got it up to speed the first time. Smooth as silk after that. Have you road tested it yet?
 
BigSouth said:
It’d probably help to know just how much you did change. Seals, gaskets, felts, bearings and races? I know the last time I rebuilt my front axle, I used Mobil 1 full synthetic grease and it made my knuckle seem “sticky” until I got it up to speed the first time. Smooth as silk after that. Have you road tested it yet?
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I got marlins rebuild kit. Took 3rd member, axles an all out an started over. It seemed strange that there steering arms were hard to get in. They told me they were kinda press fit. But I took the other arm an the bearing won’t even start on it. I used Lucas red n tacky for the grease. Not road tested yet. This has made me stop putting it togeter
 
Ibayne said:
I got marlins rebuild kit. Took 3rd member, axles an all out an started over. It seemed strange that there steering arms were hard to get in. They told me they were kinda press fit. But I took the other arm an the bearing won’t even start on it. I used Lucas red n tacky for the grease. Not road tested yet. This has made me stop putting it togeter
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The way I read this, you’ve got a set of steering arms (maybe new) from Marlin and the trunnion bearings are what won’t fit. Or at least they say they’re “press fit”. I’ve always taken some high grit wet sand paper and polished the trunnions to slip on a little easier. It’s also possible somebody was off a few thousands on their machine work. I’ve never used more than a rubber mallet to reassemble. If Marlin won’t make it good, I’d start sanding and test fitting. For the one side you have reassembled, are you sure you got the new bearing races seated properly in the knuckle ball. That could cause a slight drag on rotation as well.
 
BigSouth said:
The way I read this, you’ve got a set of steering arms (maybe new) from Marlin and the trunnion bearings are what won’t fit. Or at least they say they’re “press fit”. I’ve always taken some high grit wet sand paper and polished the trunnions to slip on a little easier. It’s also possible somebody was off a few thousands on their machine work. I’ve never used more than a rubber mallet to reassemble. If Marlin won’t make it good, I’d start sanding and test fitting. For the one side you have reassembled, are you sure you got the new bearing races seated properly in the knuckle ball. That could cause a slight drag on rotation as well.
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Yes there brand new steering arms that came with there Hi-steer kit. I tried the rubber mallet an got nowhere. The races are driven in until they bottomed out in the knuckleball. But they stick up a tiny bit. I’ll try the sanding trick
 
If I remember correctly the FSM states not to use the knuckle studs to pull the steering arms on. Like bigsouth I have only used a dead blow with getting my stock steering arms onto new bearings. The races are a tad proud of the knuckle I just had mine off the replace the diff.

I am not 100% but it sounds like bearing alignment to me since there is no friction anywhere else.

If you want to try different bearings:
Koyo, NSK, NTN or Nachi are the Japanese bearings normally in these kits ill try to track down those part numbers.
National Bearing Part#30303 from Oreillys is an equivalent if you want one local.
Nachi# E 30303J (seen here Rock Tactics Toyota Knuckle Rebuild Kit Japanese Trunion Bearings)
Quoted from another board.
Toy: 45611F
Koyo: 30303D
SKF: 30303j2

Or you can walk into any parts store and ask for bearing number
BR30303.
 
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Just checked with calipers
.068 on the knuckle stem whatever it is
.055 inside the bearing
I don’t know if that’s good or bad this is first one of these if ever done
 
Ibayne said:
Just checked with calipers
.068 on the knuckle stem whatever it is
.055 inside the bearing
I don’t know if that’s good or bad this is first one of these if ever done
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I’d give Marlin a call. Sounds like a slight machining error.
 
Are we talking about he trunion bearings? Did you just get replacements or go w their eliminator kit? I don't have experience w the eliminator at all. When I did mine a few years back I tore it down to just a housing. When I put it all back I used the good wipers, cut my backing plate down to just be a spacers, reused the factory trunions and used Marlin's histeer arms. It all came together fine.

I usually do things twice to get it right. My inclination would be to tear it down again and reassemble. Might catch something. My experience w Marlin has been great, albeit shipping can be slooooow.
 
Didn’t do the trunion eleminator kit, Shin wise I went with just one thick one on top an bottom. My preload is 16 pounds. But if I try to pull it when it in the place it catches it’s 20. I’m thinking it’s there steering arm. My bottom bearing cap went on very easy
frankenyoter said:
Also, what have you done w the shims? That may be the issue also
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Ok got off the phone with marlin. My steering arm pins an there’s measure the same .68. My bearings measured .55 there’s measured .62. They’ve offered to send me new bearings when I send the old ones back. My question to him was that’s 2 week turn around should I take sandpaper an take some off. He said if I can do it an keep it round should be fine... so sand or send them back
 
Ibayne said:
Ok got off the phone with marlin. My steering arm pins an there’s measure the same .68. My bearings measured .55 there’s measured .62. They’ve offered to send me new bearings when I send the old ones back. My question to him was that’s 2 week turn around should I take sandpaper an take some off. He said if I can do it an keep it round should be fine... so sand or send them back
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I’d send them back. I’ve sanded on the trunnions to clean them up for a new bearing. I’ve never sanded on the bearings themselves. Depending on how you plan to drive (trail or street), I’d send those back, buy new ones local, keep the ones they send as spares.
 
BigSouth said:
I’d send them back. I’ve sanded on the trunnions to clean them up for a new bearing. I’ve never sanded on the bearings themselves. Depending on how you plan to drive (trail or street), I’d send those back, buy new ones local, keep the ones they send as spares.
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I’ve got some trail gear ones that the guy give me with the axle... he planned on doing the rebuild an never did. Thought about using those. Unless there quality isn’t good. I didn’t know how complete his kit was cause was a lot of open mix match boxes but they seem to give you more than marlin. Right off the bat they had half moon plates an the split rings that marlin doesn’t offer
 
The trail gear ones are likely some other Chinese brand bearing.

Is this holding you up from driving the rig, or just another part in the build cycle?
If driving, I would get some good bearings at the store. If still building I would throw on TG bearings and swap when better ones came.
 
Ibayne said:
I’ve got some trail gear ones that the guy give me with the axle... he planned on doing the rebuild an never did. Thought about using those. Unless there quality isn’t good. I didn’t know how complete his kit was cause was a lot of open mix match boxes but they seem to give you more than marlin. Right off the bat they had half moon plates an the split rings that marlin doesn’t offer
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Trail Gear can be hit or miss with their products. I bounce around between Marlin, Trail Gear, All-Pro, and usually end up finding the best prices at Low Range Offroad. Try and bounce the part numbers on your Trail Gear bearings off of the list @chrishf12 posted above and see what you have.
 
Will do gentlemen.... thanks for the help. These are holding me up building the axle but it will be a daily driver
 
I would go to the parts store and pick up some timken or koyo baearing and Rock on. They shouldn't cost much and you'll have the ones from Marlin as spares.
 
So an update on said knuckle...went to the parts stores an bearing were 22 each so I came home an took everything apart. Took some 1500 wet paper to the steering arm stem, didn’t do a lot just spun it a few times while paper was wrapped around it. An taaa-daaa went right in with a tap or 2. Preload is 16 an smooth as could be ... no idea what went on but we good now.... thanks for all the help
 
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