Toyota rear 63's ?'s

andrewhove

New Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2008
Location
Durham
I've read the pirate FAQ thread but have a few questions for some more local people.

First of all where should I get the springs?? I could pull them myself but don't have a torch or battery powered sawzall so I'd rather just buy them.

2. should I replace the bushings?

3. I am making the hanger and am doing the standard move 11'' forward and the rear hanger 4in back. Then 6in shackles. Need about 2 in of lift above stock. I was wondering if anyone has done this and has feedback on this setup.

4. I'm having trouble finding the grade 8 bolts I need for this. Any suggestions in or around durham.

As always, thanks
 
you can unbolt them from a junkyard. i got mine from pullapart in charlotte. take someone to help you carry them , they are heavy. budbuilt has the weld on spring hangers also.
 
im pretty sure i got my bolts from budbuilt with the hangers and i just jused the stock bushings that were in the leaf springs if thats the bushings your talkin bout.
 
You def want to get the springs used, as they'll already be nice and flexy. They pop up here in the FS section a lot.
I'd just wait and decide on te hbushings when you get them, the ones in tehre may be fine.
if not, you can probably get poly bushings through 4Crawler offroad, or since yyou're in Durham, call up Chase at ECGS, I'm sure he can find them if he dosn't have any.
If you're getting the mounts from Budbuilt, just ask and he can probably supply the grade 8 bolts. Otherwise your best bet is a fastener store, i'm sure ther eare a couple in Durham.
 
thanks for your help! I have the springs separated now and painted. The bushings look fine. I made the mounts out of 3 1/2 box tube and they look like they are going to work great. I also I have bolts.... (I actually just got balljoint spacers and shocks from Chase to make the front match the chevy rear, great customer service!)

My cousin had an idea about the rear hanger... Please feel free to chime in and tell us it its a good idea or bad one.

So most people move the shackle hanger back about 4in. cut it off and reweld or get an aftermarket one. If you use the stock one you have to shim it with pipe or washers to make up for the difference in toyota and chevy spring thickness. I have the chevy shackles from the original chevy. What if we welded the shackle to the frame (it would fit perfectly with a little shoe horning) and use it as the shackle hanger. Then we wouldn't have to shim it and there would be less play. Opinions?

thanks
 
For the time it would take to make them......I'd just go with the ons from butbuilt. I used them on my truck and I have no complaints. He also carries they rear shackle hanger from Marlin if you need them.
 
you could just use both of them in a cantilever setup for now till you figure out how you want it. lot of people talk junk about it but i like how much mine will flex with them.
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I didn't have to move mine back any at all. Will hunt pics of my setup.
 
ok they are in :driver: everything looks great and feels great except.....

1. driver side sits 1.5 inches lower than passenger. Just enough to be noticeable and annoying. Yes I have checked all measurements exactly the same shackles and positioning on both sides. One spring must just have less arch than the other:confused: How do I fix this?

2. Must have come up a bit short bc the axle is about 3/4 of an inch back from where it was is this a problem?

3. What shocks should I get? I made a mount that come from the stock location on the top to the top of the axle tube (3in higher than where they would normally mount on the bottom of the axle.

thanks
 
andrewhove said:
ok they are in :driver: everything looks great and feels great except.....
1. driver side sits 1.5 inches lower than passenger. Just enough to be noticeable and annoying. Yes I have checked all measurements exactly the same shackles and positioning on both sides. One spring must just have less arch than the other:confused: How do I fix this?
2. Must have come up a bit short bc the axle is about 3/4 of an inch back from where it was is this a problem?
3. What shocks should I get? I made a mount that come from the stock location on the top to the top of the axle tube (3in higher than where they would normally mount on the bottom of the axle.
thanks
Click to expand...

1 - yep prob b/c one spring is more "unsprung" than the other. Wait and flex them out a few times and le tit settle before measuring, other one could change too. Could just get a slightly longer shckle (3/4") on that side to compensate, not much else to be done really
2 - only if the driveshaft/CV is coming up short now, but 3/4" should matter much there's alot of space in that slip yoke, just make sure there's plenty left it it w/ it jacked up and jear hanging all the way down.
3 - best thing is to find you min/max shock length, you don't want to be bottoming out. Estimate the shortest distance possible (e.g. w/ one end drooped and other stuffed, what hits first - then measure mount-to-mount, then measure longest droop. Chances are you won't find a shock that meets both of these w/ the standard up/down configuration... total shock travel is always < 1/2 max shock length.
 
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