toyota sas

toyota1

toyota1

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Joined
Apr 17, 2008
Location
Fort Mill, SC
Ok I'm doing an sas on my 86 toyota and I have a few questions, I got the sky mfg hanger kit with bent shackles for ruf when I put the front hanger on it lined up good on the frame but there is and 1/8" gap on the front crossmember should I fill and weld that gap? Also. What should I cut the holes out with for the shackle bushing tube? I don't wanna mess it up with the torch, also I'm debating weather toi get a lock right or a spartan, any opinions?
 
toyota1 said:
Ok I'm doing an sas on my 86 toyota and I have a few questions, I got the sky mfg hanger kit with bent shackles for ruf when I put the front hanger on it lined up good on the frame but there is and 1/8" gap on the front crossmember should I fill and weld that gap? Also. What should I cut the holes out with for the shackle bushing tube? I don't wanna mess it up with the torch, also I'm debating weather toi get a lock right or a spartan, any opinions?
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If you want want waste $100+ for a name go with the lockrite if not then go with the Spartan. I have installed both and they seem pretty much same. They both lock the axles under power and release while coasting. The only difference is Lockrite is recognizable name, but remember the Spartan is made by Yukon.

Need to clarify why i said $100+ I just check pricing with shipping the Lockrite is $297 and the Spartan is $247. However the Spartan comes with a new hardened cross pin you have to order that separately with the Lockrite.
 
toyota1 said:
Ok I'm doing an sas on my 86 toyota and I have a few questions, I got the sky mfg hanger kit with bent shackles for ruf when I put the front hanger on it lined up good on the frame but there is and 1/8" gap on the front crossmember should I fill and weld that gap?
Click to expand...

I put a piece ot steel in to fill the gap and then welded the crossmember on.


toyota1 said:
Also. What should I cut the holes out with for the shackle bushing tube? I don't wanna mess it up with the torch,
Click to expand...

Hole saw
 
lbyota85 said:
^^ Better make that at least 4 hole saws as the frame is tempered. Just a little heads up.
Click to expand...

The couple I've done I only used one Lenox holesaw, alot of cutting oil and a little patience.

I have had the most luck out of the Lenox brand saws. But being tempered would explain why it took so long.
 
toyota1 said:
Ok I'm doing an sas on my 86 toyota and I have a few questions, I got the sky mfg hanger kit with bent shackles for ruf when I put the front hanger on it lined up good on the frame but there is and 1/8" gap on the front crossmember should I fill and weld that gap? Also. What should I cut the holes out with for the shackle bushing tube? I don't wanna mess it up with the torch, also I'm debating weather toi get a lock right or a spartan, any opinions?
Click to expand...


The Gap = My '89 has been SAS'd for about 8 years now. I bought one of the first generation Allpro SAS kits. The directions stated to fill with weld at 3 or 4 places (front and back) approx 6-8 inches apart. Something about completely filling would make that point too rigid possibly causing frame craking where the rails are wlded to the front crossmember from the factory. The toyota's are bad to that anyway; especially on the steering box side.

Shackle Holes= Used a torch. The frame is angled in where make the cuts which makes a hole saw a pain in the ass plus like Landon said; it is tempered.
 
Get a quality holesaw, GreenLee Brand, can be bought at any electrical supply house and use cutting fluid. It will cut all day long no problems. Did my last SAS with said holesaw and 28volt Milwaukee in about 30 minutes.
 
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on the question abotu lockers, lockrites, aussies and spartans are pretty much the same. i jsut bought a spartan fro the front on my IFS yota. only reason i woudl get locrite is if i had v6 diffs
 
We used a hole saw on my truck also but it is kind of a pain to start and get it straight with the frame at an angle,just be generous with the cutting oil! Glad to see you got a yota goin man!! Ever sell your dodge?
 
torch for hole cutting. We space the welds. with the gusset to the frame there is plenty to hold it.

Hit us for the spartan or the lockright have both in stock. if it were mine I would do a spartan they are cheaper and same quality as said come with new crosspin. Or think about doing the Grizzly locker. They are more put they are a nice unit. Any drop in locker does not function correctly with a bent housing Toys are known to bend plenty functional bent but can cause a lunchbox style locker not to operate properly.
 
before i hole saw it, is this the right location for an allpro 4" kit.. the instructions say to go all the way forward until you hit the body mount.. I just want to make sure this is right
sasasas.jpg
 
sgtbriangreen said:
It will, but there is a brace inside the frame that the plasma wont be able to blow all the way through on 1 pass.
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That brace almost broke my finger when the hole saw caught it because I didn't know it was there.


I did it with one hole saw, the trick is to get a quality one and use cutting oil. Think i got the Lenox and it was 20 bucks, use the same one for notching tube and works great. As for the gap I'd stitch it.
 
Blair Rotabroach or Holcutter depending on the material thickness. Expensive but works like no hole saw can ever match. I really hate normal hole saws for boring plate like this, they take forever and do a crap job. A plasma cutter with a circle guide will do a pretty decent job too, but I'd use a Rotabroach or Holcutter instead.
 
I cut my holes for my SR with a Lennox hole saw. Used a long drill bit as a pilot to make sure it was straight. After all the measuring, it was less than 30 minutes.
 
I just bought 2 of the cheapest hole saws I could find. Be prepared for the internal brace. It will grab and probably break a tooth on any hole saw you use. Like said above, get a long bit for the pilot. Drill the pilot hole on both sides so you know it is centered. Drill from one side until the hole saw bottoms out on the brace, then go to the other side. Then you should be able to use a pair of pliers to twist out the brace.
 
cool, I made a bushing for a center punch at work so I would be perfectly in the center of the jig circle.. and I plan to pre drill the 1/4 pilot drill for the lennox hole saw. then hole saw thru using some tapping/cutting oil from work. then I will use a burr bit and make sure it slides in nice and snug at the angle it needs to be in before I weld the bushing in... good to know there is a internal brace, I will watch out for that..

I have some rotobroaches, but none that big. and they have a 3/4 shank, so I cant use it anyways because my mag base drill is too big to fit in that tight space.
 
hey question... I want to make sure I weld this tube in correctly... the instructions from allpro are.. copy/paste "The tubes should be placed so that they are offset to the outside of the frame by 1/4" when measured at the top or bottom of the tube. Tack weld the tubes in place." does this mean.. center the tube up between the chassis, and then shift it 1/4" to the outside? I think that is what they mean since I have about 5/8" sticking out on each side top and bottom.
Also... thanks for the help guys.. the lennox hole saw worked awesome.. I cut all 4 sides, and even cut thru the brace in the middle without even breaking one single tooth off, and the tube fits perfect, nice and snug, and the holes are perfectly lined up with the jig holes.

frametube.jpg
 
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