Toyota Solid Front Axle - Delema

Yay!Gurrr

Yay!Gurrr

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Mar 17, 2005
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Ok, the Solid front axle on putting together for my jeep project is having some issues..

The damn scrub radius is really killing me.

Currently I'm running the IFS hubs that widens the WMS ~1.6" over stock (on each side), and running 15x8 w/ 3.75" BS
To also mention I'm turning the knuckles almost full lock/lock ~35degs.

Tires and wheels more/less fits where I want it to, but the crappy scrub radius and the resulting fore and aft motion of the wheel as it turns is really wrecking everything...

Ideally I could widen the axle, switch back to regular wheel hubs (and stock brakes) and be around 60"-62" WMS/WMS

w/ stock housing +hubs WMS=55"
so I'd want to add 5-7" overall.
Possibly get the full 40des of turning out of the axle.



So anyone widened a toy housing ?

- Just cut sleeve the ends and reuse knuckle balls ?
- Maybe after market housing be a better start.

I see some threads where people lengthen the short side only, That looks like it would cause a ton of fitment issues under the engine. I'm thinking either lengthen each side equally or even just the long side for better driveshaft position.

Ideas... ?
 
swap to an fj80 axle? i happen to have a housing etc laying around......
 
ya i like the ruffstuff housings, if they were selling their new balls id probably go that route np... But now i have to find an axle builder ;)

Th FJ80 front would be cool as I can still use my elocker chunk etc..

Much to ponder...
 
yager said:
but the crappy scrub radius and the resulting fore and aft motion of the wheel as it turns is really wrecking everything...
Click to expand...

When you are saying "crappy," what type of problem is it causing? Does the location change of the wheel create problems with other parts of your jeep? A little more please...:popcorn:
 
Yes due to the narrow stock axle width and scrub, and my desire to have it sit low, the tire moves forward into the grill and back into the bat/tray mount.

With some testing over the weekend, with the stock wheel hub and the axle pulled to one side to simulate a 6" wider axle everything clears pretty nice..

Grill is pulled offset some as I will need to do a small notch in it just below the headlight.

Note: axle is +6" forward in the pics.

pics....
20100620-C1500 012.jpg

20100620-C1500 015.jpg

20100620-C1500 011.jpg
 
That is a large amount of tire to move up into that much of the body. If you want it to sit that low I think you are looking at some serious modifications to both the body and the axles. Or some kind of hybrid axle. From your pics, it appears you have spent a fair amount to get where you are in the build, but here's my .02.

I wheeled with a guy one time that had diamond axles. Ever heard of them? http://www.diamondaxle.com/front_steering.htm

They are pricey, but it may help you. Click the link and go to the toyota/60 axle, it's the 2nd one down in the example builds. I have seen other companies that do this, but they show the axle is 62" wide and that may be just enough to get you what you want. You could build that axle your self but by the time you finished, you could be riding on a set of tons for what you would have in the front axle.

The other option is the one that no one wants to discuss. A smaller tire. My 4-runner is on 39" iroks so I don't take my own advice, but I have wheeled with guys on much smaller tires and with a smart approach to axle clearance and such, they get close to the axle clearance I have. What tire size you running?
 
I have a similar problem on my Samurai. I'm running 15x8 wheels with 2" BS, and my rig is very low too. I actually had to cut into the tub in the corners of the foot wells about 2" and rebuild that area to get tire clearance. I also had to cut away a bunch of the metal from the fenders and in the front area right up behind the headlights. That ruffstuff housing looks like the ticket for your Jeep. Can you just stick the steering balls from a stock Yota housing in the ruffstuff housing?
 
Ya I agree, I'm liking the Ruffstuff housings. + Soposidly they have their new knuckle balls done or close..

A toy axle +6" will be perfect. (based on above pics/measurments)

Benjie- While I appreciate your input on 1tons, I just sold my 1ton jeep. I did step down in tires size to the 35s. I will have more axle clearance with this setup than the tons and 38s.

I guess I could buy new smaller tires or add 4" of lift... But neither will be happening...

This was the setup I wanted and am building..
Aftermarket birfs will hold just fine with the 35s.
Yes I have high expectations, but I'm working through them.
 
Can you move the axle forward any more & possibly narrow the grill down some?

Be cool if there was some portal reduction ends for the toy axles...maybe your next invention??
 
yager said:
Ya I agree, I'm liking the Ruffstuff housings. + Soposidly they have their new knuckle balls done or close..

A toy axle +6" will be perfect. (based on above pics/measurments)

Benjie- While I appreciate your input on 1tons, I just sold my 1ton jeep. I did step down in tires size to the 35s. I will have more axle clearance with this setup than the tons and 38s.

I guess I could buy new smaller tires or add 4" of lift... But neither will be happening...

This was the setup I wanted and am building..
Aftermarket birfs will hold just fine with the 35s.
Yes I have high expectations, but I'm working through them.
Click to expand...

I understand where you are coming from on the tons, etc... It never ends. There is always "that next step." I like your build. The last build I put mine through was to get those 39's under it. I had big plans on fire wall rebuild, fenders, grill trimming, etc... Once I got into it and realized that if I did that with 39's, I would not have any body left. It would look like a formula toy. So, it sits on 5" trail gear springs and is tooooooo tall! But it makes me respect it more since it sits so high. Oh, and yes aftermarket birfs will hold 35's no problem.

Good luck on your next move. I see something interesting brewing...
 
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