Traction Bar Do's and Don'ts

Ordered the ruff stuff kit last week. Went with the "laid-back" style for the axle mount. I still need to pick up some DOM sometime this week so we can start working on it.
 
Didn't want to start and new thread for a simple question.

I'm getting ready to order an anti wrap bar for my YJ and wasn't sure how long it needed to be? Do you want the front mount even with the spring eye or the ujoint at the tcase?
 
Monkeynono said:
Didn't want to start and new thread for a simple question.

I'm getting ready to order an anti wrap bar for my YJ and wasn't sure how long it needed to be? Do you want the front mount even with the spring eye or the ujoint at the tcase?
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longer then the front half of your leaf springs, I made mine as long as I could fit.
 
Done a few of these, had one that was preloaded and the jeep always leaned to one side. This was irritating so I cut the welds loose and made it "neutral" at ride height. Didn't notice any performance difference in either variation other than it didn't lean so long as it didn't have any preload to it.
 
I'm semi-convinced the Rover control arms make great anti-wraps (have seen 4-5 setup that way, not including mine).
Rides over/above the axle, much better clearance, and less likely to snag... the only thing is doesn't do that my old MORE bar did was offer a little bit of driveshaft protection... otherwise it'd be perfect.
 
Caver Dave said:
I'm semi-convinced the Rover control arms make great anti-wraps (have seen 4-5 setup that way, not including mine).
Rides over/above the axle, much better clearance, and less likely to snag... the only thing is doesn't do that my old MORE bar did was offer a little bit of driveshaft protection... otherwise it'd be perfect.
Click to expand...
I'd like to see pictures of this. I'm not sure I understand. I did a slip and twist over the axle pumpkin. 2" x .25 wall square with a 1.5" I think round solid rod. Doesn't limit flex and stops the axle wrap.
 
ghost said:
I'd like to see pictures of this.
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Best I have until later, but... you can see how the control arm attaches to the axle and the lack of anything hung below the housing. The front is a combo of johnny-joint & shackle (like everything else). @R Q ran it in his Jeepster prior 4-linking and the 9" (was in a Cherocar) was setup for the same CA/traction bar, so was bolt-in
20220419_210417.jpg
 
Caver Dave said:
I'm semi-convinced the Rover control arms make great anti-wraps (have seen 4-5 setup that way, not including mine).
Rides over/above the axle, much better clearance, and less likely to snag... the only thing is doesn't do that my old MORE bar did was offer a little bit of driveshaft protection... otherwise it'd be perfect.
Click to expand...
Used on the XJ, works great.
wrecked a spring pack or two before it was installed.
 
Question for someone smarter than me (that's anyone) with this traction bar do I want the centerline of the 2bars to intersect at the joint?
20241023_102957.jpg
 
Monkeynono said:
Question for someone smarter than me (that's anyone) with this traction bar do I want the centerline of the 2bars to intersect at the joint?View attachment 426724
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Functionally it makes no difference. They are acting as a big fixed "L" and the only purpose of the upper arm is to adjust the angle and translate the torque load back into the lower arm via a fixed triangle shape. The strongest configuration would be for them to meet at the joint, as that eliminates any bending load on the main arm caused by the torque on the upper arm. It could also be built as a fixed bracket on the axle end with no upper arm, so long as the bracket and arm are strong enough to carry the load. Point being, do whatever is easiest for the packaging constraints. Also, I would recommend to have the joint inline with your front spring eye to eliminate any binding.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Functionally it makes no difference. They are acting as a big fixed "L" and the only purpose of the upper arm is to adjust the angle and translate the torque load back into the lower arm via a fixed triangle shape. The strongest configuration would be for them to meet at the joint, as that eliminates any bending load on the main arm caused by the torque on the upper arm. It could also be built as a fixed bracket on the axle end with no upper arm, so long as the bracket and arm are strong enough to carry the load. Point being, do whatever is easiest for the packaging constraints. Also, I would recommend to have the joint inline with your front spring eye to eliminate any binding.
Click to expand...
Thank tou Sir.
 
Looks good from here
 
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