Traction bar question

Spence

Spence

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Salisbury
Im getting ready to start building a traction bar for my 88 MJ, standard stuff, shackle at frame end and all that

my question is whether or not it needs to be straight, or in other words parallel to the leaf springs?

if it were at an angle, with the axle mounts close to the differential and the frame end closer to the "framerail" would this cause any problems? i know it might look funny, and ive never seen one like this, but it would package a lot easier and should control axlewrap, would it contribute to funny characteristics under power?

it would be offset by about 6 inches
 
no thoughts? i guess im just going to try this, maybe today if i get done with te locker and some other stuff in short order

if it sucks i will report back
 
I have thoughts, just not sure I want to share them for free :) I see no reason it couldn't be made to work. That being said, there will be additional forces, because of the angle, trying to rip the brackets off the tube but proper welds should hold, make the brackets out of 1/4". Also depending on how you mount the front bracket you will have side forces or limitations when you flex. I think a NCSU engineering student can figure it out better than me though :)
 
The bar needs to be level as possible or it will push the axle away from the truck.
The bar works the best in the middle of the truck.
If it is not feasible to do so it needs to be on the pass side to counter act the torque of the d-shaft.But as close to the middle still.
It will do funny stuff with the pass side leaf spring but we never had any springs break they just looked like it.
We used a shackle at the front of the bar with a tractor joint mounted in the middle so it could move an inch and 1/2 either way.
 
thanks guys, i think im going to go ahead and start on it tonight give it a shot

stump, what do you mean by tractor joint?

also, any opinions on what i should use for the joints on the axle end? noise isnt a concern, so i was either going to do some sort of heims(whatever i could find locally) or ive got some old RE lower control arms i was debating cutting up to use the bushings, since im cheap, have the arms, and the time, i think i will probably go that route unless heims have some sort of advantage


john(CYJ), i finally got smart, like we talked about, after incurring some fairly substantial body damage wheeling on some of our land, i decided for now to retire the DD XJ and focus solely on the MJ, so I am in the process of swapping everything swappable onto the MJ, i might even have it going this weekend at DPG for a shakedown, depending on a few things
 
COOL, Hope to see you there! I used tubing with CJ leaf spring bushings on the axle end, 3/4 heim on the tcase shackle end. Heims would work, could get expensive. Old control arms would be a good way to go and save money!
 
I cut the eyes off of a leaf springs for the axle end.
The rubber bushings were not even removable so I submerged 1/2 the eye in water while welding to keep the rubber from melting instead if welding then completely submerging causing it to temper.

Used your standard heim style tractor joint/ link
 
well, ive got some work done on the MJ, but looks like i cant find a trailer ride to DPG tomorrow, so i had to get my fix wheelin in the back yard

since this video this afternoon, i have added some exhaust, but you all know you have to take a spin on straight pipes just for shits every now and then

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T78EcSaunWY
 
yep, thats what it is, it is a kit, but im not familiar with any of the particulars on it, once my parents get back to town tomorrow i will find out some stuff and let you know
 
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