Tractor maintenance

shelby27604

shelby27604

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2013
Location
Efland NC
I just bought a Kubota L3400, I have a dealer service log for the first 400 hours, but nothing for the last 600 hours.

I was going to throw filters and fluids at it. Any advice on the order of operations? For vehicles, I normally do a full with some Walmart brand oil, do a flush of some sort and throw a couple filters at it, and do an oil change 1000 miles later.

Any value in putting a filter on the hyd. System, then swapping out fluids and a fresh filter in 20-40 hours?
 
Wouldn't hurt to do some oil samples. It's been my experience that tractor( especially ones used by home owners) never see enough use to get things like hydraulic fluid hot enough to evaporate moisture from the oil. Oils such as hydraulic oil usually have a long service life but can get contaminated from this. Also when I buy a new/used piece of equipment, I change every filter and oil on it for peace of mind. If it's ever had a busted line, there's no telling how many different brand or weight oils have been dumped in it.
 
Junkyard Dog said:
Also when I buy a new/used piece of equipment, I change every filter and oil on it for peace of mind. If it's ever had a busted line, there's no telling how many different brand or weight oils have been dumped in it.
Click to expand...
This. You really can't wrong with this approach unless you cannot afford the oil/filters. Buy once cry once, right?
 
Great advice, I hadn't thought about mixed and matched hyd oils. I also have a line with some evidence of rubbing on it, I will probably toss a new line on it when I fill it back up with the good stuff.

On hydraulic systems, any flush recommendations to get contamination out? Usually I will run MMO in something with a new filter, then do a fresh fill and filter change.
 
When I was a mechanic for JD, the only time we would flush the system is if there was evidence of water contamination. Otherwise, it was practically a drain and refill. To do a full flush, drop what's bad, new fluid with a slight cut of diesel, then operate the tractor up to a high hydro temp. Drain, break cylinder connections in order to remove as much as possible, then refill. Run to temp again, then see how the fluid appeared. If it was still contaminated, repeat.
 
Ive got an 80s model Ford that drives me crazy about this.
The main fluid resevoir had a year break where one year it had a fill to plug and the next it had a dipstick and the fill to plug is higher in the case. Supposedly if you overfill it will block the breather tube and vapor lock.

Mine has the higher fill port and no provision for a dipstick...never know when its full enough and scared of too full. PITA
 
Run it and get it warm, then drain. See if there’s any evidence of water. If none, then change it and drive on. If there is some water or milk, change again after using it some. You can add some trans fluid as it will mix readily with water to help get it out.
 
The L4400 I had had like 4 drain plugs. One in the middle of the trans, one under the rear end, and one at the bottom of each gear housing for the rear end. It should pretty well get everything out of it. One of those drill driven gear oil pumps would be helpful for filling it back up. The 4400s hold 9 gallons. Not sure about a 3400.

I'd use Baldwin filters for everything except for the hydraulic filter. The Kubota filters have enough room for the magnet, but none of the others did. Is it gear driven or hydrostat? They've got a filter on the transmission too, if it's hydro. Not sure why, since it all share the same fluid, but more filters are always good!
 
My hydraulic filter had a magnet that sat on top of it. None of the other brands that cross referenced had one, so I used a Kubota filter for the hydraulics and regular Baldwin stuff for everything else because they were way cheaper.

Part Details | Coleman Equipment

www.colemanequip.com
 
Back
Top