Trailer hitch height

mommucked

Endeavoring to persevere
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Location
Rural Apex n.c.
I just winged it for the hitch on my new/used truck by measuring the bottom of the frame near axle on the trailer for my 1860 jon boat, in my gravel driveway. I bought a 4" drop and hooked it up. I pulled it out on the street and measured again. @ the hitch the trailer is 3/4" lower than the height @ the axle about 16' from the tounge. Took it for a drag,5 miles and it was smooth and stable w the bed of the truck and the boat empty of any extra weight. I can lift the tounge/trailer/boat w one arm, might have 150lbs on it level. I'm concerned that if the bed of the truck is filled w gear for hunting/fishing/camping etc. the tounge might be too low, and I might need a 3 1/4 drop hitch that would set the trailer level as is, but not drop inches lower when I load the the truck and trailer. Any advice is welcome.
 
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Either live with it, or buy an adjustable, which I would think are Expensive. You might come up with a hitch [or make one] that you can flip over & have 2 different levels.
 
Fixed hitches are cheap. Buy one for unloaded and one for loaded. Swap the 4 inch for a 3 inch, because 1/4 above level is theoretically better than 3/4 below level, but either is actually fine.
 
Four link and bag the front and rear of the truck and call it a day.

Seriously though, It wouldn't bother me to use the insert you have, where it's 3/4" low empty. I mean, fully loaded, the truck shouldn't squat significantly.. (what, 400# of stuff?) If it bothers you, then get a 3" drop and roll on.. it's not like your boat is 10k trailer about to sway away on braking and cause a wreck with a bus full of people..
 
If it doesn't have tandem torsion axles, the trailer doesn't care about its attitude relative to the ground. I'd prefer to be a bit high at the hitch, just to minimize the possibility of dragging, but it doesn't matter.
 
Not to derail, but I met a family during my travels when I was in Idaho Falls that had a patent on one of the adjustable hitches. We had this conversation while standing in their private hangar, next to their private jet, with a 6 figure wakeboard boat sitting in the corner, and multiple other high end cars and toys. Looked like they used money for toilet paper and tissues.
 
If it doesn't have tandem torsion axles, the trailer doesn't care about its attitude relative to the ground. I'd prefer to be a bit high at the hitch, just to minimize the possibility of dragging, but it doesn't matter.

Just to "aktually" you, .. unless it has a cambered axle. Also with an outboard or I/o boat it's generally better to have the tongue lower than to drag the skeg or prop off.
 
Just to "aktually" you, .. unless it has a cambered axle. Also with an outboard or I/o boat it's generally better to have the tongue lower than to drag the skeg or prop off.
Ergo, the first 2 motors I had on my boat, did not have electric tilt/trim. And the old trailer had the 1 7/8 ball receiver. I built my own drop hitch, so I could use the boat ramp, with the motor down! I Did tilt & lock it in up position, for the road.
 
Just to "aktually" you, .. unless it has a cambered axle. Also with an outboard or I/o boat it's generally better to have the tongue lower than to drag the skeg or prop off.

Actually, a few degrees off center isn't going to bother a cambered axle.

:flipoff2:
 
Thnx for the replies, I returned the - 4" set up to NT and got the 3 1/4" drop, w ball and pin for $14 less. I was concerned that the trailer might bottom out on sketchy ramps, also the NT ball had a long shank and I already stuffed it and the hitch in the ground backing into a parking space @ work.The new one has a short shank and prolly 3" higher than the other set.
 
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Years ago, I bought an adjustable hitch at Uhaul, I rarely use it, but it was handy and I don't remember it being all that expensive.

From now on, a Weight distribution hitch and air bags make an adjustable hitch no longer an issue.
 
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