Trailer ramp ideas…

Jeffncs

Jeffncs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2017
Location
Wake Forest
I have a 16’ equipment trailer with the fold up structural steel ramps. The ramps work fine with my CJ7, the 65 mustang needs a softer ramp angle so I came up with ramp extenders, but they’re a pain.

Pic of trailer below.

I can weld/fabricate, etc. I don’t want to add a beavertail and prefer to keep this trailer. Any suggestions for a different ramp design or a way to extend the ramps? I was dreaming up a hinge added at the bottom of the current ramp to have a folding extension when moving the mustang…. Thoughts? Or should I fabricate slide-in, removable ramps?

BAA3CBB3-234F-43A1-BE91-D814AB08C4BB.jpeg
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My ramps are square tube. It’s super easy to extend the length when needed by adding pre-made extensions in the end of the tube and pinning it.

My ramps are slide in and are super light. As much as I love strength and overkill, ramps are a real PITA when they are too heavy. Easier to build light and replace as needed if they bend. Mine haven’t bent yet over the last several years of use.
 
Seeing how I have a similar trailer with similar problems, I've thought to address it as you're thinking with a hinged secondary ramp on the bottom of the original. The only issue is positioning and added ramp weight of an already heavy ramp. I do like @rockcity's idea of an extendable feature that doesn't always have to be on the ramp.
 
They make preformed plastic extensions with the notch already to rest your current ramp on. Link below…

Trailer Ramps

It can be frightening – and certainly risky – to drive your costly beauty up a set of lumber-yard ramps. Our Trailer Ramps are simple and safe extensions for getting your low-to-the-ground vehicle loaded.
www.raceramps.com www.raceramps.com
 
Something I have seen done in big trailers and works great.
Basically you just graft an identical ramp and hinge at the end of the one you currently have. Divides the angle drastically.

You can use the ramps folded in half (like you have currently) or unfold them completely for maximum effect...

See crappy MS Paint drawing.

Picture1.jpg
 
Bebop said:
Something I have seen done in big trailers and works great.
Basically you just graft an identical ramp and hinge at the end of the one you currently have. Divides the angle drastically.

You can use the ramps folded in half (like you have currently) or unfold them completely for maximum effect...

See crappy MS Paint drawing.

View attachment 363497
Click to expand...

I dreamed up something like this years ago. The part missing is the third folding “leg” that has to support the bridge between the two. So not just double the weight, but a smidge more. Let’s just round up and say “STUPID HEAVY”!
 
What I’ve done to load my Z/28 back in the day was just leave the trailer hooked to the truck. Put a chunk of 6x6 under the tongue jack. Mine was rated for 10K. Start cranking. It’ll raise the tongue of the trailer and by default, lower the tail. That’ll decrease the break over angle and may even be flat. It all depends on the travel of your jack.
 
Might also consider tapering the last ~12" of the ramps you have so that when they're down the top surface is closer to the driveway surface. The link that @BigSouth posted shows how to determine the allowable approach angle with a straight edge. You can do that and then translate to the trailer to see what the controlling factor is.
 
GentlyUsedYJ said:
Regardless of what you do, add a set of these and weight is no longer a concern. I put two of these on my full width landscaping truck gate and have no idea why I waited so long to install a pair.

Click to expand...
Yup, that's the magic, here.

BigSouth said:
What I’ve done to load my Z/28 back in the day was just leave the trailer hooked to the truck. Put a chunk of 6x6 under the tongue jack. Mine was rated for 10K. Start cranking. It’ll raise the tongue of the trailer and by default, lower the tail. That’ll decrease the break over angle and may even be flat. It all depends on the travel of your jack.
Click to expand...

A lot simpler than "my" contraption, for sure.
 
BigSouth said:
What I’ve done to load my Z/28 back in the day was just leave the trailer hooked to the truck. Put a chunk of 6x6 under the tongue jack. Mine was rated for 10K. Start cranking. It’ll raise the tongue of the trailer and by default, lower the tail. That’ll decrease the break over angle and may even be flat. It all depends on the travel of your jack.
Click to expand...
This, just crank up the jack to make the ramps more level with the deck of the trailer. I've done it many times.
 
BigSouth said:
They make preformed plastic extensions with the notch already to rest your current ramp on. Link below…

Trailer Ramps

It can be frightening – and certainly risky – to drive your costly beauty up a set of lumber-yard ramps. Our Trailer Ramps are simple and safe extensions for getting your low-to-the-ground vehicle loaded.
www.raceramps.com www.raceramps.com
Click to expand...
Dems cost a bit more then I expected.
 
I may look at steel to follow through on the hinged ramp. @Bebop gets credit for the fancy drawing but that’s essentially what I had in mind.

I’ll also likely give those springs suggested by @GentlyUsedYJ

Have to do some math first.
 
Same theory as the jack is to drive the rear truck tires up onto blocks, think camper leveling wedges. Raises the front lowers the rear.

You can do the same with boards in front of the ramps.

Insert snarky comment about trailer not being rated for the load its carrying ...
 
@Ron I’m not sure what the snarky comment would be, but the current rated capacity of this trailer is 7k and is very overbuilt. Overbuilt to the point that a pair of 5k axles may go under it at some point.

Aside from it being a flatbed, trailer is highly qualified for the job.
 
Jeffncs said:
@Ron I’m not sure what the snarky comment would be, but the current rated capacity of this trailer is 7k and is very overbuilt. Overbuilt to the point that a pair of 5k axles may go under it at some point.

Aside from it being a flatbed, trailer is highly qualified for the job.
Click to expand...
Just a board joke all trailers are under suited to the job.

That trailer may be sufficient but I wouldn’t call it highly qualified.
Let’s say frame and deck weighs 2k, stock jeep weighs 3500, add in 200 extra for oversized tires, 200lbs of fuel. Then add in whatever is in the jeep, chains binders etc. I’d bet you are every bit of 6,500lbs…less than 10% over load capacity.

And since your axles aren’t mid point you are probably biasing towards from axles and I’d suspect it’d probably carrying close to 4K lbs of its 3500 lb rating .
That sort of snarky comment
 
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Ron said:
Just a board joke all trailers are under suited to the job.

That trailer may be sufficient but I wouldn’t call it highly qualified.
Let’s say frame and deck weighs 2k, stock jeep weighs 3500, add in 200 extra for oversized tires, 200lbs of fuel. Then add in whatever is in the keep, chains binders etc. I’d bet you are every bit of 6,500lbs…less than 10% over load capacity.

And since your axles aren’t mod point you are probably biasing towards from axles and I’d suspect it’d probably carrying close to 4K lbs of its 3500 lb rating .
That sort of snarky comment
Click to expand...

Makes sense! Thanks for the explanation.

I’m trying to make this trailer work, but the smarter decision for me is probably an 18-20’ car hauler. If I found a close to even swap, I’d do it in a heartbeat.
 
Cut the support legs off the ramps, will do exactly what you're wanting to without changing anything. I cut the two off the hudson trailer i sold 1stgenjeff and used them for bed steps on two dump trucks.
 
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