Trailer shackle angle

BigBody79

BigBody79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Location
Lumberton
I've got a new to me boat trailer and am working on getting it set up for my boat.

What would cause the shackles to do this?

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My guess is the spring is a replacement and they got one too long. I'd run to tractor supply and get a new set.
 
It's set up for droop. Gotta limit up travel to keep the tire out of the fender, but that way it still flexes out good :D



I agree, springs are probably too long.
 
You can tell that the mounts haven't n been moved. I was just wondering if over loading the trailer would cause the leaf to flatten out. Then it rusted in place.

Any opinions on greaseable shackle bolts?
 
If you're going to be dunking it in any saltwater, I'd use stuff that is easily replaceable because ever 4-5 years (with frequent use) it'll be getting replaced anyway.
 
I would toss all of that an start new. Springs/shackles/bolts/U bolts/tie plates would not be all that expensive at Northern Tool or any trailer supply shop. At least not compared to what will happen to your boat/tow vehicle/occupants if those rusty parts decide to part ways with the trailer. If you want to keep your current ride height and correct the shackle angle then you need to weld new shackle hangers a little further back and over the spring eye and go with some short shackles.

I had this same issue on my early 90's Pro-Craft bass boat trailer. The shackles were angled the wrong way from the factory and made the trailer bouncy(the shackles were opposite of what they were supposed to be). I removed the old hangers and started over. I also got it to track better by centering the new axle and correcting the caster of the new axle. It was a mess to deal with but well worth it.
 
How do you determine the correct distance between the mounting holes? Lets say the spring is 25" eye to eye.

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BigBody79 said:
How do you determine the correct distance between the mounting holes? Lets say the spring is 25" eye to eye.

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The norm is to put the shackle hanger 1" forward of the rear eye of the spring(unloaded). But if you are hauling heavy loads this may not work. I would guess that this boat is less than a ton so you should be fine with the rear hanger 24" from the front hanger. I bolted mine on with grade 8 hardware then welded it but Im a bit OCD.
 
It's a 4000 pound trailer. It's a heavy boat. Current mounting holes are 25.25" apart. I'm thinking 26" eye to eye springs.

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Are you measuring the springs eye-eye in a straight line, e.g. unloaded and not accounting for the bend?
I'd measure them along the curve, e.g. unroll a fabric tape measure laying along the spring. Then get some that are 2"-ish this way longer than the distance between mounts
 
BigBody79 said:
It's a 4000 pound trailer. It's a heavy boat. Current mounting holes are 25.25" apart. I'm thinking 26" eye to eye springs.

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If you get different length springs than what you have then your "axle center" will be different as well. This will lead to more modifications like moving the fenders and checking the balance of the trailer. It would be easier to relocate the rear hanger and replace the rusty springs with same length/weight rated springs.
 
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