Trailing Arms

I ended up pulling the trigger on these. He threw in 4 extra shocks that need rebuilt and knocked $500 off… :smokin:
 
Van-go said:
Yeah he’s got the old style busted knuckle ones. From what I’ve seen they re-designed them since Jake made his video explaining trailing arms.
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link to said video??
 
Enzo is correct in all information however it can be much simpler. 1.25" heims on chassis and axle side, 2.5" .250 DOM, shock tabs where you want them, backbone the arm, then fill shock mount with uhmw or teflon or something of the like that is high abrasive. Trailing arms made easy and cost effective.
 
Scottal said:
Enzo is correct in all information however it can be much simpler. 1.25" heims on chassis and axle side, 2.5" .250 DOM, shock tabs where you want them, backbone the arm, then fill shock mount with uhmw or teflon or something of the like that is high abrasive. Trailing arms made easy and cost effective.
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Can you give me a visual of what you are saying?
 
Basically with a heim on each side, the arm will rotate to far and break the end of the shock off. That’s why most use some form of wobble stop or bushing on frame side to stop this. If you use two heims, it’s as simple as putting uhmw between the shock and shock mount on the arm side. This completely stops all arm rotation because the shock heim is “solid” blocking movement. It’s still moving enough inside the uhmw to not break. I have friends that have been doing trailing arms this way for years. Mine uses the 4” tmr wobble stops but I am still going to eventually do this to the shock mounts to make the wobble bushing last longer.
 
Scottal said:
Basically with a heim on each side, the arm will rotate to far and break the end of the shock off. That’s why most use some form of wobble stop or bushing on frame side to stop this. If you use two heims, it’s as simple as putting uhmw between the shock and shock mount on the arm side. This completely stops all arm rotation because the shock heim is “solid” blocking movement. It’s still moving enough inside the uhmw to not break. I have friends that have been doing trailing arms this way for years. Mine uses the 4” tmr wobble stops but I am still going to eventually do this to the shock mounts to make the wobble bushing last longer.
Click to expand...

Short version you need to keep the shock tabs parallel to the shock eyelet.

Pieces of uhmw with a hole in them larger than the OD of the misalignment spacers that keep the shock tabs and trailing arms parallel to shock eyelet.

A bunch of people said it would break/bend the shock shaft, but Shannon Campbell used this exact setup for several years with zero shaft failures or abnormal wear in the shaft & bushing.

That info can straight from the guy that was inside his shocks.

2.0 coil carriers and 2.0 bypasses will be fine. You aren’t racing or killing whoops for extended time/miles.

I like to start by pulling the valving out of the coil carries completely first and work on the bypass valving. Then add in some valving back into the coil carrier to share some dampening between the 4 shocks, if needed. Sharing the load, shares the heat.


As far as another alternative is a bushing on the chassis end of the arm and 1.25” heim on the axle side. Then you can use a double adjustable tube insert that allows you to adjust the link length without removing the arm from the axle side.

Uhmw, delrin, oil-lite bronze/brass, firm poly are all options for bushing material.
 
What he said. Better job of explaining it forsure, I’m simple minded.
My dads buggy has the bypasses doing all the work. No valving in the carriers.
Mine is just 2.5 CO’s.
Both buggies tuned or spec’d from diddy’s big block race shop. Highly recommend Chris for any shock needs!
 
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