Trans info/input

T-bone71

T-bone71

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2007
Location
Conover
I've been wheeling a manual trans.(m465) for about 5years now but since i've gone to 42's i have started having alot of clutch issues. I love the first gear ratio of the m465 trans (6.55-1) but i'm not liking the slipping clutch problems. My question is what everyone else w/ bigger tires using for transmission, how well are the automatics holding up, what Chevy trans is holding up and how are you getting your gearing. I'm on tons w/ 5:13's and detroits front and rear, so my axle gearing is as deep as i can get in the 14 bolt. I'm looking for opinions and input as to possible changing from manual to automatic trans. Thanks
 
Strictly a trail rig, the only time it see the street is at Ure going to the trails. What about gearing how is the low/crawl be achieved? Doubler or another option?
 
Slipping clutch on a 465? Have you changed the clutch in the 5 years you've been wheeling it? Rear main leaking oil? Hydro or mech clutch?

Anyways, I've wheeled a TH350 and TH700, and if built correctly with a large cooler, they will hold up. Never had any issues out of either of mine, but I did like the 700's lower first gear. The only thing I didn't like with my 350 was that it didn't have any engine braking capabilities except in 3rd gear, but that was my fault for putting a reverse-manual valve body in it.
 
a 700 and 42's isn't the most desireable combo.
1st in a 400 is 2:48 -1
a 700 is 3.06 to 1

the difference is a 400 can be just about bulletproofed.
a 400 can be upgraded to straight cut planetary for low which almost doubles the strength over helical cut gears.

a 700 does have a lower first but why run overdrive if it's just a trail rig. a 700 will also overheat unless you run a converter without a lockup clutch.

i can also build a 400 for about half of the price of a 700.
 
maulcruiser said:
Slipping clutch on a 465? Have you changed the clutch in the 5 years you've been wheeling it? Rear main leaking oil? Hydro or mech clutch?
Click to expand...
I wheeled a clutch for 4 years on 38's and never had an issue, but since i went to 42's last year i'm on my 3rd clutch, the first clutch i had a light weight alum. fly wheel (smoked), the second i had it turned and cleaned up (smoked the clutch), the third (current clutch) I went to a bigger 1 ton clutch and new heavy flywheel. I'm using a racing style floor mounted hyrdo clutch pedal, hyrdo clutch master and pull type slave w/ braided steel line.
 
transman731 said:
a 700 and 42's isn't the most desireable combo.
1st in a 400 is 2:48 -1
a 700 is 3.06 to 1
the difference is a 400 can be just about bulletproofed.
a 400 can be upgraded to straight cut planetary for low which almost doubles the strength over helical cut gears.
a 700 does have a lower first but why run overdrive if it's just a trail rig. a 700 will also overheat unless you run a converter without a lockup clutch.
i can also build a 400 for about half of the price of a 700.
Click to expand...
I do have a 2wd 400 in the shop, that would have to be rebuilt and an advance adapters- adapter and output shaft installed to make it wheel-able.
 
Thank god my axles are geared 6.72

You can change your 2wd 400 to a 4wd 400 using a stock GM 4wd tailcone (racetrack bolt pattern) and mainshaft. Advance Adapter parts ain't cheap. Sounds like the clutch problems may be caused by loss of gearing when you stepped up in tire size. It was probably like going from a 5.13 gear back to 4.10. Whichever auto you go with, none are going to "feel" like that granny low, and you will probably be happier if you add a doubler or klune behind it.
EDIT: Still will have to buy a coupler sleeve, 32 spline to 10 spline, I forgot your 205 is from a manual...Advance Adapters stabs the wallet again!
:bling:
 
Back
Top