Trans-tcase swap in a K5

jeepcj3a

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2006
Location
winston salem
If I keep my '84 K5 I will want to switch to a th400 or th350 with a 205 case. I currently have a 700r4/208. Looking for a shop close to winston that could do the swap, mointing the trans/tcase as high up as possible w/o cutting the floor. And hooking back up the cables and tcase shifter.

Thanks
Chad
 
Chad

1) The 700 has a lower 1st gar than the 350 or 400 and is the same as a 350 with od added to the last sprag
2) The 208 has a lower gear than the 205
3) When you add the difference up, (th350=2.52 th400=2.48 700r4=3.07) (np208=2.61 np205=1.96)...lets do some basic math...(th350/np205 2.52*1.96=4.94) (th400/np205=4.86) (700r4/np208=8.01) there is no comparison on the crawl ratio
4.94*4.10 = 20.254 or 8.01*2.73(the lowest offered between 79-86 and only in 2wd) 21.87

The choice is clear for gearing the 700/208 wins
4) Despite its reputation the 208 is ok for moderate to light-aggressive 4x4 use, and it is there.
5) A swap to either a th350,th400 or tcase swap will requie 2 brand new drive shaft as the lengths are dramatically different
6) Yes they are more durable, but you will have so much more in from the start, I wouldnt even consider it unless you are goin 203/205 doubler from the get go..
7) What are your build plans?
8) the 205 weighs more
9) they are roughly the sam size so you will not gain belly clearance unless you use clocking rings etc.

Are you really interested in spending 2500 for a lower crawl rato and 2" increased clearance?

If so I will give you a hand off loading that 700 and 208
 
Dj's Auto on Kernersville can do it. Johnny has done a few chevys in the day. Call him 336-996-0416
 
I can't thank you enough SkyHiK5 for the answer, I had no idea about the stuff. I will just stick with the 700r4/208, defenitly do not want to get into having new driveshafts done. If my blazer does not sell soon, I will keep it and going over time to 4in. lift, ORD 1" body lift, 3/4 ton axles-4.10 gear, cut fenders to fit 37" military goodyear tires, and have something I can drive down to URE, have fun out on the trails, nothing crazy, and drive home at night..
 
I can't thank you enough for the answer, I had no idea about the stuff. I will just stick with the 700r4/208, defenitly do not want to get into having new driveshafts done. If my blazer does not sell soon, I will keep it and going over time to 4in. lift, ORD 1" body lift, 3/4 ton axles-4.10 gear, cut fenders to fit 37" military goodyear tires, and have something I can drive down to URE, have fun out on the trails, nothing crazy, and drive home at night..
thats what id do also. i jsut had to learn the hard way
 
A clocking ring for the 208 would help your belly clearance significantly. You will need a new front driveshaft with a joint at the TC end that can take the new steep angle though.
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=18&product_id=64


That is what I would like to end up doing...put in a 1in ORD body lift and clock the tcase as much as possible and have a new mount/skid installed to tuck it up nicely. I am looking for the most amount of clearance underneath with the least amount of lift. Thanks for the link, I will check it out.
 
I can't thank you enough SkyHiK5 for the answer, I had no idea about the stuff. I will just stick with the 700r4/208, defenitly do not want to get into having new driveshafts done. If my blazer does not sell soon, I will keep it and going over time to 4in. lift, ORD 1" body lift, 3/4 ton axles-4.10 gear, cut fenders to fit 37" military goodyear tires, and have something I can drive down to URE, have fun out on the trails, nothing crazy, and drive home at night..
you almost described my truck. Except mine now has a sm465 and 3.73 3/4 tons
 
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