Transfer Switch Wiring

BigBody79

BigBody79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Location
Lumberton
Can I put a transfer switch between my main panel and my sub panel.

I have a six breaker main on the outside connected to the meter.

I have a 14 breaker sub panel for the house.

I’d like to put a transfer switch between the main and sub to then feed the gen to the house panel.
 
That's what I did....new construction last year.


only breakers in house subpanel are heat pump, heat strips, breaker for main (sub) panel inside house

Generator only feeds the house.

Pic of panels: (L to R... House sub, transfer switch, meter, shop sub)

20180227_171159-L.jpg



20180227_113517-L.jpg
 
BigBody79 said:
With hurricane season coming going to bump this.

Next question.

Do I need a permit to install a transfer switch?
Click to expand...
Yes. Most everywhere you now need a permit for anything at all involving electric stuff, even adding a single outlet.

That said. 90 percent if things I wouldn't bother with one. Changing stuff around in the service entrance, I definitely would pull a permit. Only $60 (here).

Your gas guy will have to pull one for the hookup if you are NG or LP, and the permit folks will check to see if you got an electric.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
They dont like that. At some point power co. will see that you cut the seal. Then they will turn you into the permit office to see what you did, and to screw you.

Not exactly the safest thing to do, either, without training.

We had to do work on the service entrance main panel at my folks place one time. Called power company, they came out and killed the service drop at the street. Came same day and iirc, no charge.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
BigBody79 said:
Can I pull my meter to work on my breaker panel?
Click to expand...
Depending on power supplier and meter type, they may be immediately notified when you pull the meter.

Then they can refuse to reconnect until an inspection is completed, after a permit is issued.

I quoted a gen install for church member locally a couple weeks back for material cost +$100.
His "electrician buddy" knew better and could do it for half.
He pulled the meter....and church friend didnt have power back on for 4 days...
 
BigBody79 said:
Can I pull my meter to work on my breaker panel?
Click to expand...
Not advised.

kaiser715 said:
They dont like that. At some point power co. will see that you cut the seal. Then they will turn you into the permit office to see what you did, and to screw you.

Not exactly the safest thing to do, either, without training.

We had to do work on the service entrance main panel at my folks place one time. Called power company, they came out and killed the service drop at the street. Came same day and iirc, no charge.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
x2...most municipals charge ~$500 if you tamper with a meter and it must be paid before they reconnect.

Ron said:
Depending on power supplier and meter type, they may be immediately notified when you pull the meter.

Then they can refuse to reconnect until an inspection is completed, after a permit is issued.

I quoted a gen install for church member locally a couple weeks back for material cost +$100.
His "electrician buddy" knew better and could do it for half.
He pulled the meter....and church friend didnt have power back on for 4 days...
Click to expand...
x2....I work with the City of Lumberton (provided that's your electric provider) regularly and have weekly calls now that they are building a corrugated retaining wall around one of their Points of Delivery. If you can't get any traction calling them, let me know and I'll see if I can call in a favor.
 
I’m on county power. Not city.

Now that this thread has some traction.

Can the transfer switch go between the breaker in the main panel and the sub panel. I do not have a main disconnect from the meter to the main panel.
 
BigBody79 said:
I’m on county power. Not city.

Now that this thread has some traction.

Can the transfer switch go between the breaker in the main panel and the sub panel. I do not have a main disconnect from the meter to the main panel.
Click to expand...
Could, but nothing that is breakered in the main panel would have generator power.

What is in the main panel? Heat pump, heat strips?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Yes. I do understand that. I just want to power the inside sub panel. Fridge, lights, fans. Main panel has house(sub panel I want to power), shop, A/c, hot water, and dryer
 
Another thing you could do it remove the the Dryer, A/C, Hot water from the main panel and put a secondary panel off of the Main panel. Main -> transfer switch -> exterior sub w/ removed breakers
 
I could. But, I really only want to power the fridge and some lights. Power is usually only out a day or two. I'm only running a portable generator. Would be nice to not have to drag out drop cords and what not. I'd back feed the stupid thing if I could. My current plan looks like $250 in parts. I'd prefer not to spend another 250 on permits and an electrician.
 
BigBody79 said:
Can the transfer switch go between the breaker in the main panel and the sub panel. I do not have a main disconnect from the meter to the main panel.
Click to expand...

Since this isnt in the Garage...
In theory, yes that is feasible.
That is the standard "emergency panel" scenario. You could intercept the sub panel feed and install the ATS.
The ATS would have to be sized same size or bigger than the sub panel feeder breaker. However the ATS would not need to be SE rated at that point as the upstream breaker would provide over current protection.

None of this is specific to your application. Just theoretical design discussion. You should seek the guidance of a licensed electrical contractor in your jurisdiction. Fuel mileage may vary. Cooking times may vary by appliance.
 
BigBody79 said:
I could. But, I really only want to power the fridge and some lights. Power is usually only out a day or two. I'm only running a portable generator. Would be nice to not have to drag out drop cords and what not. I'd back feed the stupid thing if I could. My current plan looks like $250 in parts. I'd prefer not to spend another 250 on permits and an electrician.
Click to expand...

In this example one would need to carefully select the ATS. The ATS pictured above by another member would not be code complaint in this instance.

And when using a portable an ATS isnt really the right product at all.
An MTS or a double pole duoble throw safety switch are the right products.

Also matters if you are going to be running any 2 phase power and how you handle the neutral(grounded) conductor
 
I investigated the crack in the white wire. It appears to be a cloth cover over rubber insulation. The white cloth does appear to have a split that can be seen in the photos.

I believe I do have a workable plan that will fall with in the proper coding. However, my next concern is the neutral(or is it called ground in this case?) wire. It can been see as the bare twisted aluminum colored wire in the bottom of the photo. I know that I can splice the two power wires in a box to reach the terminals in the transfer switch. But, how do i deal with the neutral(ground)wire. I believe it must be continuous. Can I leave it currently connected and run and additional wire from the transfer switch to the main panel? Which I would need to do either way.
 
I cant see enough from the pics provided to even have an opinion.

No offense intended, but if you aren't 100% of the difference between the grounded conductors and the grounding conductors(neutral and ground)...Id strongly advise to pay the man here.
a couple hundred bucks is a small price to pay to keep from jeepinmatt'ing your house on your own...or hurting someone.

There are several factors beyond what is shown in the picture that could change how to handle both/either. And offering advise on an open forum...well that's not smart of me
 
Back
Top