True Cost to set up a 8.8 for a TJ

tinman

New Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Location
Pine Level
Im looking to do something to my TJ to get rid of the 3.07 gears I have.

Im on a tight budget....looking for the cheapest and most effective build. I dont want to waste my money.

Options:

Regear my D30 and D35

Replace D30 with HP D30 with 4.10's from an XJ
Replace D35 with D35 from a 4 cyl TJ

Replace front with HP D30 and find a 8.8 and have it fabbed to install.

Im currently running 33X10.50's....I dont plan to go any bigger anytime within the next 2-3 years. I have to DD this rig so Im playing it safe.

I think I may have an eye on a couple of 8.8's....and that looks to be my best, cheapest option right now....but....

what is the true cost to have an 8.8 modded up to bolt into my TJ? I dont weld, dont fabb....Im a bolt in kind of guy.


Can someone give me a ballpark figure on the cost to slap an 8.8 under my jeep?

thanks!

chris
 
I can't help you with cost, but the choice to go with an HP from an XJ and an 8.8 is great, you can't go wrong!!
 
Here's a rough list:
8.8 out of explorer with right bolt pattern, limited slip, and wrong gears $250
TJ Bracket Kit $250
Gears $125
Install Kit $100
Driveshaft adapter flange $75
Gear Install $150
Bracket Install $175

Thats $1025. Now assuming that you can find one with the right gears, that would save $375 and bring the total to $650. The axles can be found cheaper, but you can find them for $250 all day.
 
If you want to go ultra-cheap, carefully remove the brackets from the d35 and have them welded to the 8.8, can easily be done if you have a friend with a plasma cutter. Remember to take all the measurements from the d35 to install them correctly on the 8.8 This will save you a lot on conversion brackets and if done right should hold up well. Look for a 8.8 w/4.10 gears and the limited slip. You will probably need wheel spacers to keep the tires from rubbing w/ the 8.8. Get the HP30 and swap the gears to match the 8.8 if necessary.
 
Thanks for the info guys.

Ive found a HP D30 with 4.10's (actually 2 of them) for $75 each and Ive found a couple of 8.8's with 4.10's and limited slims as well for $100.

So, the D30 I think I can handle. As for the 8.8....not so sure. I think if I go 8.8 Ill buy the TJ kit and do that. I wont be able to pull the D35 till everything else is ready...as this is a DD.

What kind of labor time am I looking having to spend to have the brackets and such put on the 8.8? Then there are the brakes, e-brake, etc that I have to mess with...right??

As for a D44....if I could find one as cheap as an 8.8 set up for a TJ....Id be all over that!

Chris
 
If you have the HP30 and the 8.8 then I would do a search on line for new brackets you can find them for $250-$400. As for the E-Brake keep your original cables you can make a modification to them and use them for the 8.8.

The only difficcult part I had with my 8.8 install the E-brake pads I had to replace them and the only way to do it was to pull the axles. This brings me to fact that you need to plan on $60-$70 for gear oil if you have the limited slip Dif.

But even with all that for a daily driver the Hp30 and 8.8 is the most reliable and cost effective way to go. Before it starts I am not opening the Debate of the D44 out of TJ becasue yes Ideally it would be great to just bolt in but finding a 4.10 and bolting it under your jeep jeep for less then a $1000 is highly unlikely you would have better luck finding a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow and everything I have read says the TJ D44 is weaker then 8.8 any ways the only advantage is the D44 is not a C-clip axle.

As for the 2 HP30 4.10's you found any chance of passing along your source I could really use a hp 30 with 4.10's for that price.
 
Swap the HP 30 under the Jeep. I'm looking for one for my ZJ with 4.10's.
8.8 or a TJ Dana 44 depends on your budget, how hard you plan to wheel it. The benefits of the Dana 44 is it bolts right in uses all the stock parts and there are a ton of aftermarket parts. Down side to it the thinner axle tubes, smaller ring and pinion still have drums brakes and 3.73 or 3.07 gears unless Rubicon axle then price that comes with a TJ Dana 44.
The 8.8 is a good deal for the money if you have it to spend.
Larger ring and pinion, thicker stronger axle tubes, disk brakes on 96 and later units, most have limited slips and 3.73 or 4.10 gears easy to find and cheap. Down sides are poorly pinned tubes to center section but that is a easy fix by welding the center section to the tubes, the 8.8 is set up as a spring under so you would need all the brackets welded on, overall width is about 1.5" narrower then a TJ rear axle.
When I bought my ZJ it had a cracked Dana 35 and the 8.8 fit the bill properly, I did the swap in a weekend I bought the axle on Friday, had to work on Saturday and started the swap after work on Saturday and finished it up on Sunday. I cut the brackets off the original Dana 35 even with a plasma cutter still had some gaps to fill in. Right now it is still rolling on the stock wheels and tires.

Primed and ready for paint then install
n1408891098_269837_2065728.jpg


Painted and installed under my ZJ
n1408891098_269844_4728269.jpg
 
If you go with the 8.8, you can save the 75 for the u joint adapter flange. You can get the adapter off of a 94 or older explorer at the junk yard for cheap. You can get the brackets for 250 including shipping from madoffroad.com. I would say to go that way. You get more for money with the 8.8.
 
thanks guys.

gonna see if I can get someone local (and with experience) to price me out the welding cost.

Ive got to see the money layout before I move one way or the other.

Thanks again for the info.

chris
 
Aussie Locker - $259.00
Ford 8.8 with correct gearing - $175.00
New rotors and pads - $100.31
Brackets - $329.98
Welding - free
E-brake cables from dealer - $45.00

My cost was right around $1000 to bolt it up under the Jeep.
 
I wish someone would sell some 4cyl TJ axles at a reasonable price....that would make this so much easier.....

chris
 
tinman said:
I wish someone would sell some 4cyl TJ axles at a reasonable price....that would make this so much easier.....
chris
Click to expand...
A 4 cylinder TJ rear is still a POS Dana 35.

I have a total of $125 into my ZJ's 8.8 and that includes purchasing the axle I get them dirt cheap. I was also able to use the rear brakes from my ZJ's 35 on the 8.8 the rotors, parking brake shoes calipers and pads all fit on the Ford brackets.
 
Yeah, I know a 4cyl D35....is still a D35....but not a D35 with 3.07's which is what I have now.

Im not looking to go hardcore with my TJ...not for a while. I am wanting to swap axles to make my TJ a more comfortable daily driver and effective weekend trail rig....that is my goal.

chris
 
tinman said:
Thanks for the info guys.
Ive found a HP D30 with 4.10's (actually 2 of them) for $75 each and Ive found a couple of 8.8's with 4.10's and limited slims as well for $100.
So, the D30 I think I can handle. As for the 8.8....not so sure. I think if I go 8.8 Ill buy the TJ kit and do that. I wont be able to pull the D35 till everything else is ready...as this is a DD.
What kind of labor time am I looking having to spend to have the brackets and such put on the 8.8? Then there are the brakes, e-brake, etc that I have to mess with...right??
As for a D44....if I could find one as cheap as an 8.8 set up for a TJ....Id be all over that!
Chris
Click to expand...

whoa now, what about those 4.10 d30's? i want one, srsly. are they around here or somewhere off in BFE?
 
You should get a tj dana 44 I just sold one for 5hundo. By the time you get that 8.8 the way you want it you will have $1000 into it. Save yourself a lot of time and money and get a d44 and just bolt it in!:beer:
 
exploreit said:
Here is a sticky from over on JU about the 8.8 may or may not be helpful http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371713 from what I've read you may need to install a SYE and double cardon driveshaft if you haven't already as the 8.8 offsets to the PS 2.5 inchs.
Click to expand...


You don't need the SYE and expensive Driveshaft. The length from the centerline of the axles to face of the pinion flange is considerable longer on the 8.8" than on the D35. If you have a little bit of lift, the stock driveshaft will definitely work, or it may even need to be shortened (no lift scenario).

Even though the diff is offset by ?2.5"? that is only 2.5" along the circumfrence of the arc the driveshaft is capable of. The pinion being offset XX amount does not mean you need a driveshaft XX amount longer.
 
Mac5005 said:
You don't need the SYE and expensive Driveshaft. The length from the centerline of the axles to face of the pinion flange is considerable longer on the 8.8" than on the D35. If you have a little bit of lift, the stock driveshaft will definitely work, or it may even need to be shortened (no lift scenario).
Even though the diff is offset by ?2.5"? that is only 2.5" along the circumfrence of the arc the driveshaft is capable of. The pinion being offset XX amount does not mean you need a driveshaft XX amount longer.
Click to expand...



X2 I installed my 8.8 in my TJ and I am running my stock drive shaft with out issue. I do not have SYE, I do how ever have a transfer case drop installed but I needed that with the stock D35 also,
 
jds97Wrangler said:
X2 I installed my 8.8 in my TJ and I am running my stock drive shaft with out issue. I do not have SYE, I do how ever have a transfer case drop installed but I needed that with the stock D35 also,
Click to expand...


How much lift do you have - I thought the original driveshaft might end up being too long.

I'm in the process of planning an 8.8 swap in my 97 TJ 4.0 Automatic.

Thanks,
 
If your putting in an 8.8, Do your self a favor and put in a CV Drive Shaft and SYE. I made the mistake of not, I ran the stock drive shaft and third time out it blow the adapter off the pinion due to binding in the drive shaft. It broke when I was in the gas and I lucky it didn't tear up the transfer case. It sheered both hoops off the pinion plate, Torn up the drive shaft, and left me stuck in the middle of a trail.

I learned from my mistake, If your going to do it, Do it right. I know guys are saying ''yeah it will work'' but for how long. The CV shaft and SYE are going to need to be done at one point anyway.

Get a ZJ front shaft and get it cut, get a $200 SYE kit and do it right.


Or do like me and try and explain to your wife that you just replaced the rear axle so you won't break on the trail, then go out and break with in a couple weeks of fixing it.

The extra $300 would have been well worth the ear full I got.
 
spraypaintman said:
You should get a tj dana 44 I just sold one for 5hundo. By the time you get that 8.8 the way you want it you will have $1000 into it. Save yourself a lot of time and money and get a d44 and just bolt it in!:beer:
Click to expand...
After weighing the axle options for my ZJ that I bought with a cracked Dana 35, I have @160-200 into my 8.8 swap and that includes buying the 8.8, which has 4.10 gears and a LSD. For the record I'm still useing the stock ZJ driveshaft with a flange to mate the original shaft to the 8.8.
 
burrellsjeep said:
If your putting in an 8.8, Do your self a favor and put in a CV Drive Shaft and SYE. I made the mistake of not, I ran the stock drive shaft and third time out it blow the adapter off the pinion due to binding in the drive shaft. It broke when I was in the gas and I lucky it didn't tear up the transfer case. It sheered both hoops off the pinion plate, Torn up the drive shaft, and left me stuck in the middle of a trail.
I learned from my mistake, If your going to do it, Do it right. I know guys are saying ''yeah it will work'' but for how long. The CV shaft and SYE are going to need to be done at one point anyway.
Get a ZJ front shaft and get it cut, get a $200 SYE kit and do it right.
Or do like me and try and explain to your wife that you just replaced the rear axle so you won't break on the trail, then go out and break with in a couple weeks of fixing it.
The extra $300 would have been well worth the ear full I got.
Click to expand...

where's the best place to find a ZJ driveshaft? and shortened?

Any advise on the SYE, I've seen many, many brands..

Thanks,
 
Back
Top