Truggy wiring suggestions

As said previsouly, the Holley TermX already has a fuel pump trigger (positive), fan1 & fan 2 triggers (both can be programmed to be positive or ground) that are already there. In other words you don't need an external temp switch to turn the fans on and off, the ECU already handles that.
You can program at what temperature they turn on/off very easily too.

For the rest, having an actual quantity of lights and accessories and their respective amp draws would help. I don't even mind making a quick wiring diagram for you if that helps but I need the extra info above. Also helps to know if you want a switch to turn all your lights on, or you want every single one separately controlled etc.

There is a big chance the BKOR unit will be cheaper than the switch pros, especially since it seem that you have more than 8 "things" to power.
If you want to splurge for the RCForce12 from switch-pros, I really believe it's the best out there for the price point, but it's definitely more expensive than the BKOR boxes.
 
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I like the simplicity of the Switch Pros PDM. The fact the switches are integral is a bonus to keep things clean. One less thing to have on the dash and such.
My only issue is if it craps out, seems you'd be dead in the water. The BKOR panel seems more robust. Obviously, still have to run switches and such.

This is the last decision for the rebuild. Uhhhhhhgggggg!
 
Jody Treadway said:
I like the simplicity of the Switch Pros PDM. The fact the switches are integral is a bonus to keep things clean. One less thing to have on the dash and such.
My only issue is if it craps out, seems you'd be dead in the water. The BKOR panel seems more robust. Obviously, still have to run switches and such.

This is the last decision for the rebuild. Uhhhhhhgggggg!
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The BKOR panel can get replacement relays and fuses at the parts store. The switch pro stuff is cool but like you said, if it craps out your up shit creek without a paddle. Same with stitches, standard toggle is plenty fine and easy to find or carry a replacement for. Not like it's going in a street car that gets treated nicely and only driven on Sunday, shit is going to be inside a concrete mixer ran by a squirrel on meth.
 
Jody Treadway said:
I like the simplicity of the Switch Pros PDM. The fact the switches are integral is a bonus to keep things clean. One less thing to have on the dash and such.
My only issue is if it craps out, seems you'd be dead in the water. The BKOR panel seems more robust. Obviously, still have to run switches and such.

This is the last decision for the rebuild. Uhhhhhhgggggg!
Click to expand...

Same could be said for the TerminatorX EFI system you chose to run. It's a full aftermarket solution that cannot be repaired simply or swapped in the middle of nowhere.

I had the same thought as you, then realized some Trophy Truck teams are using Switch-Pros as their power supply. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me.

Everyone keeps telling me how worried about the switch-pros taking a shit they are, but mine has been flawless for the past 18 months and I've used the thing. I even had to get new stickers for the switches since I blew them up with the pressure washer (got too close) and it still works perfectly.
 
May not be directly applicable, but talking about quality connectors and such, I went all marine grade with my Willys project. Blue Seas fuse box with built in ground bus fed by a weatherproof 100amp continuous duty solenoid for all the switched circuits. All using tinned marine grade wire and terminals. New Wire Marine in SC has a good selection of terminals and marine grade tinned wire, and they let you order in smaller quantities and have pretty fast shipping (my last order arrived in 3 days). I had a heck of a time finding a reasonably priced source for good terminals that also did not make you order 100+ of each thing at a time.
 
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