Tube Bending Tips

burrellsjeep

burrellsjeep

Breaking Stuff...
Joined
Nov 19, 2008
Location
Morganton NC
I am starting on my cage this weekend, and I am looking for some tips on bending 1.75

What do you allow for the bend, Say I have a 20'' area and want to bend a piece of tube so that the 90 is at the end of the 20'' measurement, I know I have to add inches to allow for the bend, Does anyone know how much? I am using a JD2 bender.

Also any other "tips" would be great. I may have someone who has bent up tube helping and then again I may have to go at myself and learn.

Thanks for the suggestions
 
Read bill vistas tube bending 101 on Pirate...Enough said......
Measure twice then measure again!!!
He has the trick for this exact thing..
 
all benders are slightly different but mine streches the tube about 3" maybe on a 45* i think....

remember to overbend slightly cause the tubing will strech slightly back after removed from the bender.

My buddy had a real complicated bend he was trying to replicate so he used flexable exaust tubing and used that as a template.
 
I have a JD2 bender. My 1.75 " die uses approximately 10.25" per 90* of bend

Also, remember if you have a 6.5 CLR, from the start of the bend to the outside edge of the bend, it will be 6.5 + (dia of tube/2) if that makes any sense.

Also, where put your mark for the bend to start and align it up with the edge of the die, your bend will actually start about 3/4" past the mark.

Thats about all I remember with my JD2 and its served me well without too many fawk ups.
 
Have to factor in the radius of the bend. That tells you how far past the straight the bend will extend. The JD2 benders are 5.5" IIRC.
 
Your die should tell you what CLR you have. Mine is 6.5. When I bought it there were several options for CLR. Now, I don't know but check your die. Each CLR uses different amount of tube in each bend.

There is no special formula for it. Its pretty much just finding out the circumference of a circle and dividing it by 4 to get how much tube is in a 90* bend
 
Thanks for the info,

I will check the CLR when I get home, You can order the 1.75 Dias in all different sizes.

Rob,

I understand what your getting at with the adding and subtracting of the bend. I bend conduit so I kinda understand how it works.

Edit: Just for shits I looked up the user manual for the bender and it has the info I am looking for so we will see.
 
Short answer, YES. that is the best way to visualize the bends, and mark my start of bend locations, in my opinion.
 
bending

If you follow the"Tube bending 101" directions you will not have to do all the calculations. It really makes it very simple.
 
Some tips:

Go buy a metal yardstick at Lowes. Cut it in half and bolt one end together to get your angle finder thingy he has in the article. This will help to see what angle you are at..

Also buy a small yellow protractor so you can set the angle of yardsticks. They also have them at Lowes.


Soapstone and floor method works well for hoops etc.

For compound bends use a paperclip to visualize the direction you will have to rotate the tube in the bender.

Always attach a muffler clamp and match it to the angle of the top of the die (0deg) before bending any section with more than one bend.

Give yourself a couple inches on each end for play unless you are 100% sure or you just want to guarantee throwing away a section of tube.

When you make a bend, mark the die each time where you stopped and what angle it was.

Bend a 90 and determine (and mark) the actual starting point of the bend on the die. You will see it on the die, fairly obvious after you make a bend. Line up all your starting points of other bends to this mark.

Determine the amount of springback. Almost all 120deg dies with a ~6" CLR will have about 3-4deg of springback.

Getting the tube out of the bender requires a deadblow most of the time.. Make sure you have one.

Clean shavings/debris off tube before bending to avoid marking die or follower.

Drinking while bending tube can get expensive. :) Take your time and go slow.

Buy a pipemaster tool from summit. They are worth their weight in gold.

Buy a digital anglefinder from HF.

Hope this helps.
 
Call the guy at tubetek.net. He's from Asheville and knows his stuff and has the cheapest pricest by far. I can attest that his benders are quality and there is a thread on pirate about it I think.
 
russ0943 said:
Some tips:
Go buy a metal yardstick at Lowes. Cut it in half and bolt one end together to get your angle finder thingy he has in the article. This will help to see what angle you are at..
Also buy a small yellow protractor so you can set the angle of yardsticks. They also have them at Lowes.
Soapstone and floor method works well for hoops etc.
For compound bends use a paperclip to visualize the direction you will have to rotate the tube in the bender.
Always attach a muffler clamp and match it to the angle of the top of the die (0deg) before bending any section with more than one bend.
Give yourself a couple inches on each end for play unless you are 100% sure or you just want to guarantee throwing away a section of tube.
When you make a bend, mark the die each time where you stopped and what angle it was.
Bend a 90 and determine (and mark) the actual starting point of the bend on the die. You will see it on the die, fairly obvious after you make a bend. Line up all your starting points of other bends to this mark.
Determine the amount of springback. Almost all 120deg dies with a ~6" CLR will have about 3-4deg of springback.
Getting the tube out of the bender requires a deadblow most of the time.. Make sure you have one.
Clean shavings/debris off tube before bending to avoid marking die or follower.
Drinking while bending tube can get expensive. :) Take your time and go slow.
Buy a pipemaster tool from summit. They are worth their weight in gold.
Buy a digital anglefinder from HF.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info I have most of what is listed, Thank you for taking the time to type that out. I Feel like I have a pretty good Idea of what I am doing but tube cost allot I would hate to screw up too much of it, I know there will be mistakes there always is. Maybe Braxton will show up on Saturday and hold my hand. :lol:

PENNSY PRO-PAIN said:
A little bit of lube helps prevent a possible kink in tubing.
Click to expand...

From what I have heard and read you should lube the tube and not the dia. Talking to a buddy be said to use LP1 spray lube, what are you guys using thats a little heaver than wd-40?
 
1st, buy your tube from Brandon at Rides. He is usually in the $2.75/ft range for 1.75 .120 which is insane.

Usually when I get my tube I wipe it down and then take a can of WD-40 and spray it down...mainly to keep it from flash rusting. This has been a sufficient lube for the bender in my experience.
 
russ0943 said:
1st, buy your tube from Brandon at Rides. He is usually in the $2.75/ft range for 1.75 .120 which is insane.

Usually when I get my tube I wipe it down and then take a can of WD-40 and spray it down...mainly to keep it from flash rusting. This has been a sufficient lube for the bender in my experience.
Click to expand...


HREW or DOM?
 
you can also get a piece of solid copper to make the bends with first then you can have a reference as you bend your tubing
 
as long as steel prices have not gone up i can do 1.75 dom for under 3.00 per foot. i also have about 400 ft in stock.
 
Back
Top