Turning a stock YJ steering column into a quick connect steering wheel release

upnover

upnover

Grumpy, decrepit Old Man
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Morganton NC
I have found several things on EBAY and Speedway, but not enough info or pics. Basically I need a quick connect spline inside to fit over my stock steering spline that can be either bolted on or welded on., and then the locking piece to attach to my steering wheel. Anyone done this? I wanna change the seats in my Jeep but need the extra clearance to get myself up and over the seat, with the stock non tilt column, I don't have a lot of room
 
Joes Racing is what I used. Also bought their light weight steering wheel and it works great. You'll need the one for a 3/4" shaft and it'll be weld on. If this is the path you choose to go, I'd be more than happy to write up exactly how I did mine so that it stays concentric with steering shaft.

JOES Economy Steering Wheel Quick Release - JOES Racing Products

Hub is made from aircraft aluminum, and the coupler is made of steel. JOES economy quick releases are pin-less and spring-loaded for fast steering wheel rem
www.joesracing.com www.joesracing.com
 
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I have used a weld on one on a TJ and a NRG quick release on a toyota. I am a fan of the NRG setup, even though it's pricey. Centers the wheel automatically, no play at all (I have play in my weld on hex setup in the tj). I'll find the parts for the YJ NRG setup and link them below.

SHORT HUBS: SRK-170H - Hub that bolts to steering column

2.5 QUICK RELEASE - actual quick release setup - I think you could get different ones, this is just the one I used.

Then you'll just need whatever wheel you're using. I don't think it would stick out a ton more that a stock one, but you should be able to get different depth wheels.
 
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getstucksome said:
I have used a weld on one on a TJ and a NRG quick release on a toyota. I am a fan of the NRG setup, even though it's pricey. Centers the wheel automatically, no play at all (I have play in my weld on hex setup in the tj). I'll find the parts for the YJ NRG setup and link them below.

SHORT HUBS: SRK-170H - Hub that bolts to steering column

2.5 QUICK RELEASE - actual quick release setup - I think you could get different ones, this is just the one I used.

Then you'll just need whatever wheel you're using. I don't think it would stick out a ton more that a stock one, but you should be able to get different depth wheels.
Click to expand...
I think the NRG way will also allow for the use of the horn on the wheel center if I'm not mistaken. If that matters to you.
 
I have the speedway spline on mine. Opened up the hole a little in a drill press and got it to slide over and welded it. Little play but it doesn’t see much if any road time
 
adamk said:
Joes Racing is what I used. Also bought their light weight steering wheel and it works great. You'll need the one for a 3/4" shaft and it'll be weld on. If this is the path you choose to go, I'd be more than happy to write up exactly how I did mine so that it stays concentric with steering shaft.

JOES Economy Steering Wheel Quick Release - JOES Racing Products

Hub is made from aircraft aluminum, and the coupler is made of steel. JOES economy quick releases are pin-less and spring-loaded for fast steering wheel rem
www.joesracing.com www.joesracing.com
Click to expand...
I won't turn down any help in know how and/or tips and tricks!
 
upnover said:
I won't turn down any help in know how and/or tips and tricks!
Click to expand...

I'll try to explain this the best I can without having pictures of my actual rig handy.

1) Removal of the steering wheel is straight forward. You'll need a steering wheel puller but those can be had for ~$15 at any parts store. You can set everything to the side except for the factory nut that is used to hold the steering wheel to the column. You'll need that to help ensure centering of the disconnect coupler.

2) there is a thin plastic cover that remains over the end of the steering column once the steering wheel is removed (it's not shown in the attached diagram for some reason). You'll need to remove it (but keep it for reinstallation) and the horn contact plunger. There is also a small plastic guide for the horn plunger. That will need to be cut as flush as possible with the end of the column housing.

3) The Joes racing splined coupler will slip over the splined section of the column and should contact the smooth portion of the column behind the splines. Take the factory nut and put it on backwards. One side of the nut is rounded/tapered. Threading this on so the tapered end is going into/against the splined coupler will ensure that the coupler is straight with the steering column.

4) I tacked the base of the coupler (closest to the steering column housing) first. Then removed the nut and welded the end of the coupler to the threaded portion of the steering column. After that I finished welding the base.

5) Once welded on and cooled down, I reinstalled the plastic cover (removed in step 2) and then the steering wheel.

I hope this helps. If it's confusing, I'll try to remember to take pictures one evening after work and post them up.
 

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Also, I'd like to note that the parts and method I chose to use was driven by the fact that I did not want to add any additional length to the steering column/steering wheel assembly. The goal was to keep the steering wheel where it was factory or, if possible, closer to the dash. My wife and I both drive the jeep and, for her, she couldn't comfortably reach the pedals since the steering wheel was basically at her chest.
 
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