Typical Cherokee With Ford Axles

lilWill

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2013
Location
Wilmington
My Jeep isn't running and I can't wheel, so instead of fixing it I am going to post a bunch of pictures, a little back story on the pictures, and call it a build thread.
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I picked up this Cherokee several years ago through my dad as my first 4x4 after my brand new to me Civic Hybrid got rear ended and subsequently totaled. Complete opposite ends of the spectrum, but the smiles per gallon went way up!

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I got new all terrains, painted up some stock wheels, added a roof rack, rock sliders, and a mini hummer style home brew snorkel.

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Shortly after it was on to sliders, cut fenders, and bedliner for cosmetic effect. I also swapped full 3" springs front and rear to replace the 3" coil spacers and blocks.

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With the help of a couple friends more knowledgeable in the ways of Jeep than myself we installed a front Aussie right before my first real wheeling trip to URE. Played in the local mud holes, but never any trails. I was hooked on URE after that and really had no desire for mud after making Daniel.
 
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I wheeled it that way for about a year before stepping up too soon to 35's without regearing. Everyone warned me not to, but I of course did not listen. I did put a trans cooler on it like that really makes a difference...

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I sheared my output shaft bouncing off of the first ledge of Daniel, so it was time for a few upgrades for the transfer case. I added a wide chain from a Dodge 231dhd, a 6 pinion planetary gear from a Chevy 241, and JB Conversions SYE. If you want more information on that you can find that write up here.

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At the same time as rebuilding the t-case I clocked it up. I gained something like 2-2.5" of ground clearance. It is now flat enough that I could get away with a flat belly skid. This is something I have been talking about for a long time. One day, one day...

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After pigeon toeing my front end like a Chevy and blowing out all my glass one trip I decided it was time for a front end upgrade. So I did the WJ front end upgrade and ZJ rear disk and built a swing out tire carrier. I thought the tire carrier was pretty cool because I used a Dana44 spindle and lockout hub for the pivot point. This allowed me to lock it closed or open at any point. This was handy on the trail if I needed to get something from the back while on any kind of incline.

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I wheeled it like this for a few years while collecting parts to swap Ford Dana44hp/9 inch in. I sat on parts for probably 2-3 years slowly buying something here and something there. Never starting because I wanted to do it all at once, but the built kept getting longer and more added to it requiring more parts and more time. My life got to the point that everything I did started with "well when my Jeep is done". At this point I decided I either needed to build something or sell it all and move on. I chose to build. Asked my friend if I could use his shop for about 3 weeks, no more than a month. ...5.5 months later I rolled out with axles, frame stiffeners, 3-link mid arm, shackle relocation, 5 speed, Pit Bulls, beadlocks, and a winch.
 
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Almost forgot to update this. Ok, I did forget to update this...

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RuffStuff frame stiffeners and 2x6 sliders from the local scrap yard installed. I have solid rockers so I din't do the typical cutout and replace of those. I did use 1/8" strap on the rocker panel and pinch seam to tie the body to the 1/4" box. I also used 2x2x1/4" box to tie the slider to the frame stiffeners.

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Scored a pair of 77 F-150 axles from the local Pick n' Pull. Weld on wedges for the front and big wheel bearing 31 spline axle 9 inch. Started with the front. 40 year old gear oil smells just like you would imagine... Tip for cutting off wedges because I couldn't find anything, first cut parallel to the weld on top and bottom like you are going to cut into the axle tube next cut the weld as flat as possible then grind the rest down. I tried to cut the weld and get it all in one go and it just doesn't work well. I have done 3-4 now and this is the quickest and easiest way to go. A plasma torch helps with step one if you have one.
 
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Shout out to Carl Jantz with Jantz Engineering! If you've never heard of him, he is unreal. His out side the box thinking, engineering abilities, and just love for learning as well as teaching is unmatched. He was also on Alaska Offroad Warriors and dominated with Super Jeep. I actually got to meet him and see Super Jeep out at KOH2017. Very friendly, spent a couple hours an the phone with me answering questions and giving recommendations and asked about the install at KOH. Very ingenuitive and cool dude for sure! Enough about him, look at my Dana44 clearanced for the Dana50 gears and the comparison between the ring gear sizes. My only regret is using a spool and not a Detroit or Ox. I have to get out and unlock hubs between obstacles. Up side is when I'm locked, I'm locked.

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Hydro assist helps with the spool and big tires, but I still want to swap the spool out at some point. I did the West Texas mod and poor man's hydro assist by building my own kit using Surplus Center ram and hoses along with a custom aluminum reservoir that my buddy tig welded for me. Drilled and tapped the factory xj steering box and shimmed an 8" ram down to about 7.25". The 6" ram would have limited the steering radius and the 8" ram would over travel the steering and potentially rip itself apart. Again scored at the local Pick n' Pull with some Chevy flat tops knuckles and spindles. I had CrawerTech formerly High Clearance machine, drill, and tap my knuckles for 5/8" studs. Again awesome company! Josh was very helpful. He was the originator of the keyed knuckle for high steer. He was willing to speak with me and explain the advantages and disadvantages about keyed knuckles with 9/16" studs vs 5/8" studs and stock vs aftermarket knuckles. Sacrificing profit over my education, he shot straight with me. End game was cross over steering. High steer was the desire, but ultimately a 3" lift height didn't allow. RuffStuff brackets and a homebrew truss courtesy of the local scrap yard later I had a nice little setup. Unfortunately after test fitting I did have to trim the truss just a little bit on the passenger side of the dif.
 
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The 9 inch got the full treatment as well. Shave with 3/8" base plate, truss, nodular chunk, pinion guard, 5.13's, Detroit, and Eldorado brakes.

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If I had it to do again, I would buy the front stiffeners, but I had more time than money at the time, so I cut out and bent front stiffeners. They took longer than I care to admit, but I'm pleased with how they came out and really helped stiffen the front end up. I had about three cracks under the steering box that these fixed. Also gave me a solid base for a hidden winch bumper.

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Started with 1/4" plate steel and bent, cut, welded, measured, cut, bent, drilled, beat, and welded until I had something that resembled a bumper with a winch in it. I will make another one day and change a few things, but over all I'm pleased with how it turned out.

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Rear suspension already had 3" Old Man Emu springs, but I slapped together some extended shackles and homebrewed a no lift shackle relocation bracket. All said and done I was able to drop the rear end about 1/2" and gain about 4-5" of droop. I out boarded the shocks and mounted them to the leaf spring plate. Things to redo here are replace the relocation brackets with the HD Engineering no lift brackets and re do the shock mounts on the body side. I have the capability for 12-14" of travel in the rear, but my shock length and mounting location is the limit at about 8" of travel. I really need to put hoops in, but I'm waiting to add a cage and will tie them into that.
 
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The front suspension got quite a bit more attention. I went with a mid arm 3-link with pan hard bar. I built the suspension at full compression to make sure I could everything to clear. Staying low make this quite a challenge. Once everything was set, I articulated the everything to double check clearances and measure for limit straps aka spring keepers. The 3-link really freed up my range of motion!

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Limit straps, extended brake lines, ram, linkage, etc. all installed. You can see the clearance on the truss to clear the oil pan at full compression.
 
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Picked up a set of beadlocks from @viper red cj-7 who I still owe pictures of his wheels mounted on my jeep. Sorry it took so long, here you go. They have worked like a charm! I wrapped those in a set of Pitbull Rockers. Between the 10" wheels, 3ish backspacing, and 14.50" rubbers it all got stupid wide real quick.

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Wrapped up a few more odds and ends, cowl intake, larger master cylinder for the brakes, mounted a cooler for the hydro assist, loose nuts and bolts, and put it on the street. Once it was out in the yard it was quickly dubbed the roller skate because the wheels stuck out so far and the body looked like the shoe of a skate.

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The next weekend was my friend's wedding and after getting set up on the farm had an obligatory articulation test. Found out my rear bump stops needed about 1/2" more, but the fronts were about right on point. The front end needs a bit of inner fender clearance added so I can tuck a little further and still turn full lock.
 
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@Jakemd98 and I decided it would be a good idea to do a cannonball run to Uwharrie from Wilmington hit every trail and get back in under 12 hours only to turn around in the fuel sipper and spend the rest of the weekend wheeling shotgun with another group of friends. Why? Because we could and it sounded like a good adventure.

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Made my first visit to The Gulches and had a blast. This is Shipwreck and was one of my favorite trails we rode.

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Unfortunately I cut a tire between the three sisters at the bottom of the trail so my driving was cut short. However we did invent a new sport in the process. Downhill floor jack luge! I recommend not trying this one. After I got off the trails I hopped shotgun and rode the rest of the park. Helped @Jakemd98 lay his over a couple times in Papa Gulch. Haven't really done anything else in a couple years to it. The itch is back though so hopefully something new to come soon.
 
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