U-joint issues

upnover

upnover

Grumpy, decrepit Old Man
Moderator
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Morganton NC
My u-joint in my front drive shaft(1310) keeps going out. Sometime it lasts 2 trips, more often than not, it lasts one trip before it starts squeaking. IT is the non grease-able Brute Force from Advance. I know these have a warranty, biggest reason I get them, but would rather change them less often than to change them for free.

recommendations?

Also, the reason I opted for the non grease-able one is that it's solid, so in my mind stronger. Never broke one, just needle bearings are dry and or powder when I take them out.
 
I have always run the spicer 1310 joints and haven't had an issues. I run their non grease-able ones because the guys at Denny's driveshaft said they were stronger. You might try those, I'm working on the second full season on the now.
 
2 trips = dry needles ? Might try just putting some extra grease in there when you install them. I usually wipe out the cheep-o grease and fill the cap/hole in the cross w/ EP2 Red/sticky grease...

Or get the greasable and not worry about it.
 
I had a friend who had this problem. His driveshaft had a pretty good angle at the pinion and flex made the angle worse and it cooked the grease out of it until he rotated the pinion closer to the angle of the driveshaft.
 
1410
 
The angle isn't the best, I admit that. 1410 is not in the budget right now, esp when I don't break them. I do add grease when I instal them.
I think I will go with the spicer 1310's next time.
What auto parts sell them? I assume NAPA
 
All the joints on my rig are the cheapo 1year warranty joints from advance or autozone with the grease fitting except for: front shaft has tom woods superflex greasable 1310 joints (with the off set cross to get more flex) Im even running greasable spicers in the front axles on my 60 and I havent broken a u-joint yet. The rear joints are 1350 BTW

I do pump them full of grease after every trip. Been running them for 3 years now.
 
I've had nothing but trouble from the Brute Force ones, and waaaaay better durability and longevity from the sSpicer non-greasable. The seals are world apart, and I imagine the metallurgy is much better too.
 
I ordered mine from Denny's, they were a lot cheaper than fleetpride. Ordered them online and had them in a couple of days.
 
$20.69 shipped for the PermaLube Spicer 1310 @ 4 Wheel Parts. If you have a local store I'm sure you can get em cheaper. Give Greg Slade a call in Raleigh or Will in the Charlotte store, maybe they can get you a better price.
 
Is your yoke a u-bolt yoke or a strap style? If it's u-bolt style you are more than likely over tightening them. Tighten till the lock washer is flat, then only another 1/4 turn. We see more failed joints due to this than anything.

Just a thought.
 
I bet Dave sells 1310 Spicers....
 
braxton357 said:
Thought id also throw out that those joints still have the grease passages through them, just no hole drilled for the zerk.
Click to expand...


Most solid joint trunnions are not drilled all the way through, only about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch for each cap.
 
Dw said:
Is your yoke a u-bolt yoke or a strap style? If it's u-bolt style you are more than likely over tightening them. Tighten till the lock washer is flat, then only another 1/4 turn. We see more failed joints due to this than anything.
Just a thought.
Click to expand...


also make sure you tighten the u-bolts evenly (if that's the style you have)
 
Dw said:
Most solid joint trunnions are not drilled all the way through, only about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch for each cap.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily spicer, but the auto part store duralast and brute force joints that I've broken in the past had the full grease passages just like greasable joints. Meant to add that.
 
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