Upgrade to my superduty 60

marty79 said:
you might be on to something Matt...mine is welded so there's 0 play there. but since I built this thing a year ago, tires off the ground, hubs locked in (both spin same direction and locked in) when I turned the wheels back and forth I've always had like "lots" of play from one direction to the other. Like rotate forward, stop, and when rotating backward the tire would move like "a lot" before it would engage the axles to spin everything in reverse. (hope that made sense) so now you're basically saying these hubs have been "severely" worn since day 1 lol.
I'm just trying to learn this play I've always seen in my front end rotation/engagement
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With the tire on the ground, you should be able to isolate it by turning the pinion and watching the u-joints. I doubt the drive splines on the wheel hub are worn enough to matter, and if you've replaced the hub with a drive slug, that would eliminate any wear in the sliding ring of a locking hub. So that would leave either end of the axle shaft at the spline engagement points, or the u-joints, or possibly something in the carrier or locker.
 
marty79 said:
Anyone know of Machine Shop in Hickory NC area that would be familiar with doing this..or in the nearby area?
Unless Yall have a major point against going this route, going to order them this week. Thanks
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I've seen people drill them out with this and a drill press.....

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Americ...1.5+inch+drill+bit&qid=1604327449&sr=8-3&th=1

marty79 said:
and what happens to the "needle bearings" that are in these hubs when you drill them out? they just get thrown out and the 35 spline shaft just rides on the hub now?
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The hub and stub will be turning together, no need for a bearing anymore.
 
jeepinmatt said:
With the tire on the ground, you should be able to isolate it by turning the pinion and watching the u-joints. I doubt the drive splines on the wheel hub are worn enough to matter, and if you've replaced the hub with a drive slug, that would eliminate any wear in the sliding ring of a locking hub. So that would leave either end of the axle shaft at the spline engagement points, or the u-joints, or possibly something in the carrier or locker.
Click to expand...
No I'm talking stock setup, new joints all good, welded spiders all good, so it was only at the outer wheel where it does it..its gotta be the hubs now that I see the blown up one and how it works
 
marty79 said:
Is it exactly 1.5? I would think it would have to be more precise
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With slugs, you would want to be slightly above 1.5", like 1.505-1.51". Basically just enough to pass through. The drill bit above likely doesnt drill a perfect 1.5" hole.

If you are having them done by a machine shop, just take them the stub and bearings and tell them that it needs to fit without interference. Since the spindle spins with the shaft, you want to retain as much material in the hub as possible.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
you are having them done by a machine shop, j
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I'd like to do it myself, I have a nice drill press but scared to mess it up lol. A 1" drill bit is hairy to use, I can only imagine a 1.5 bit and knowing my luck, it would woller it out too big and screw something up
 
marty79 said:
No I'm talking stock setup, new joints all good, welded spiders all good, so it was only at the outer wheel where it does it..its gotta be the hubs now that I see the blown up one and how it works
Click to expand...
Ah, for some reason I thought you already had drive slugs. Yes, stock hub probably had quite a bit of slop in it due to wear or damage.
 
Well just ordered the 35spline chromolly outers with drive slugs upgrade for my axle. Woohoo!!
 
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