Urgent: E-brake handle ideas?s

Caver Dave

Caver Dave

Just holdin' it down here in BFV
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So, after 17 years of wheeling the Moss (72 Commando) all over the SE *WITHOUT* an e-brake, I'm taking it to Moab.
As part of the event producers "tech inspection", must show a working e-brake... :eek:

I have stock rear drums with all the e-brake junk inside and cables that go forward (from each side) to about the front of the leafs. My plan is to connect 1 side (since the rear is welded) and hope I can get it adjusted tight enough. The OE foot-well pedal assy. was frozen, so it was unbolted and chucked years ago...

My biggest issue is time... leaving in a couple weeks and job has just gotten very "needy" :rolleyes:
The other issue is what to use for a handle?


So, I don't have room between the seats (just installed cable shifters) and the cage A-pillar is now in the way of another foot-well pedal...

Thinking I could use one of the Toy truck inline (ripcord style) handles and mount under the dash?

OR, is there a standard center/console handle that the cable comes out the front (vs. rear)? Could mount it on the tunnel and would make routing MUCH simpler...
 
eb9adf2568f2da86e0f901b05d78a0b4.jpeg


Mount anywhere. It's adjustable and locking
 
Mac5005 said:
eb9adf2568f2da86e0f901b05d78a0b4.jpeg


Mount anywhere. It's adjustable and locking
Click to expand...
I think napa and O'Reilly carries one of these. I can't remember the name but it's the same brake handle that the ups trucks and the old bread trucks use. You twist the end of the handle to tighten up the cable. Probably can have it overnight

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Got home from work and found my bookmark from when I hooked all my e brake stuff back up. Dorman partnumber 924-5617. AutoZone, O'Reilly, napa all list it around $30 I've seen it on Amazon for $25. You'll just have to figure out a cable attachment. Similar to the one pictured above, but it's the actual one off a workhorse or Chevy panel truck.

I eventually got a new foot pedal assembly for my old Ford but I used saddle clamps like you'd use on a winch cable repair to hook the 14 bolt axle cables to the Ford truck front cable. I staggered them like they say not to do on a winch hook since I figured both ends of my cable were loaded. It's never slipped.

The Chevy cables use this arrangement to equalize the cable pulls,
128b5dbb1e06cf6b81f2056c2570fad7.jpg

Where the inner core of the right cable hooks to the jacket of the left cable (the cable with heat shields on it) then that cable is attached with the clamps to the Ford front cable. Works great. Another option would be to make an equalizer bar from angle iron or find one from the junkyard from a Ford truck. With that setup you'd have both cables anchored by their jackets with the front cable hooked in-between the rears on the equalizer bar.

I'd use both brakes if you can. It will double the braking power even with the locked rear due to the doubled surface area of the shoes. I know you said you haven't used it but I use mine constantly now that it works, winching, or just to hop out for a second, especially with mine having a granny four speed.

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mbalbritton said:
Do they specify that it has to be a mechanical ebrake? Or can you do a line lock?
Click to expand...

Eithers fine. BUT, if I'm gonna spend the time to do it, it will be a true e-brake... that will/should work when the hydraulic totally shats the bed ;)

Tim C said:
I'd use both brakes if you can. It will double the braking power even with the locked rear due to the doubled surface area of the shoes.
Click to expand...

:beer:
 
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