USA6x6 superslowness

drkelly said:
But you would get them before you go back to school in the fall.
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idk IMO it'd almost be worth the wait for the price difference/getting the width I want

IDK if I'm gonna go the whole 54's route now anyway, went by 4wheelparts today, then also stopped by CRS and talked to Andy and realized for a set of Boggers (insured) im lookin at 3 grand then another 1400ish on top of it for the wheels.

Droppin bout $4500 started me thinkin how much I would screw myself over financially right now, lol. I guess it doesn't matter how bad I want em, I shouldn't be spending the $$ right now.

But then again 44's are so freakin small and Im sittin here doin the Rockdub/500 cubic inch motor swap and got nothin to show for it cause I'll still be on the same small little 44's.

IDK still up in the air about it but my "wtf are you thinkin spendin that money right now when you know you shouldn't" side is starting to win :rolleyes:
 
dannyboy lies through his teeth and they are often incomprehensibly slow but they sometimes give away free chit afterwards. i got free inserts with my order. anyways why not buy rockmafias setup :beer:
 
86m1008beater said:
dannyboy lies through his teeth and they are often incomprehensibly slow but they sometimes give away free chit afterwards. i got free inserts with my order. anyways why not buy rockmafias setup :beer:
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cause im lazy and don't wanna have to reweld the centers is the main thing, I can just use my 44's and the beadlocks I have fer now I guess.
 
jrraw23 said:
Yea yea, cept i figure by the time I get enough $$ flow to drop that amount with no worries in a few years they will have an even larger tire out that i can snag and beast the crap outta it :driver:
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not really understanding the thought process here maybe its the beer thinking but his tires are CHEAP and you could sell your tsls on wheels for around the same price as new centers and goodyears give or take. maybe im wrong. anyways whatever you do GO WHEELING :flipoff2:
 
86m1008beater said:
not really understanding the thought process here maybe its the beer thinking but his tires are CHEAP and you could sell your tsls on wheels for around the same price as new centers and goodyears give or take. maybe im wrong. anyways whatever you do GO WHEELING :flipoff2:
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Workin on it :flipoff2:

the caddy 500 is in, need to tie up some lose ends and she'll be runnin, then onto messin with the rockdubs, and i'll just use the wheels/tires I have now and not have to mess with cuttin/reweldin centers.
 
If you're just gon'na run this thing in the woods/rocks and no street use, go find some ag wheels, put in a rockwell pattern, weld on some bead locks and find some wide V tread tires. I'm leaning that route when I ever build a trail only ride.

http://upload8.postimage.org/160409/photo_hosting.html

USA6X6 shipped all parts within 2-3 weeks, but my wheels were like 3 months, also, check your wheels to make sure they run true. I have to jack the airpressure way up to run the road with my jeep or I get a bad shake. Didn't have this with my Barts and dana's but haven't figured out if it's the weight of the rock hub, wheel issue or something else. It shakes from say 40 to 45 mph when the pressure is way down, the speed you run around town most, pretty annoying.
 
86m1008beater said:
dannyboy lies through his teeth and they are often incomprehensibly slow but they sometimes give away free chit afterwards. i got free inserts with my order. anyways why not buy rockmafias setup :beer:
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I got a u-joint short side axle for $40... but yeah, he fawked up the order...but in the end, I'm happy.. and, it made me buy another u-joint shaft from him..
 
Yea well I ran into a problem today, found out real quick the rockwell front diff is all up in the crank pulley :shaking:

so . . . . I can move my front spring forward 6.5 max, if i do that its gonna give me about 3"ish of uptravel before the diff will hit the crank pulley, I'm think if I make some extra tall spring pads, and put bumpstops like almost right on the springs i aughta be alright but I will have like no uptravle whatsoever in my rig because the rear is bumpstoped already.

What do you guys think will having no uptravel really suck, or will it be still fairly wheelable?

Granted I don't know how else I can make it clear any better other than lifting it more but then i'll be stiffining the crap outta my springs with that route.
 
jrraw23 said:
Yea well I ran into a problem today, found out real quick the rockwell front diff is all up in the crank pulley :shaking:
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These axles are a bitch to work around, ain't they...

IMO, 3" of uptravel will suck. 3" of uptravel with a non-adjustable suspension will suck BAD.
 
I think little to no up travel will give a harsh ride. My stock Samurai has 1" between the axle tube and bump stop on the front. It is not a very comfortable ride with it bottoming out all the time. My cab truck has 4-4.5" of uptravel in the front and is fairly comfortable.

Tall spring perches will induce more axle wrap. You will end up needing to add some type of traction bar, etc.

I've never worked with 2.5 tons. Don't know what to tell you. From the little bit I have read/seen, if you want it low, you have to move the front axle forward.
 
i've been in/around a truck with just under 3" of center uptravel and it works fine. it does bottom out on higher speed stuff, but it's not terrible. it's more noticeable in a parking lot going over a speed bump than it is off road. i wouldn't want any less though...

drkelly is right, taller spring perches aren't a very good idea on a rockwell. the toploader design introduces enough spring wrap as it is, taller perches will only make it worse.
 
Yea fittin these things is bein a pita, with me movin my front spring all the way hanging off the front of the frame that'll move the axle 6.5" forward and give me the 3" or so clearance I was talkin about so yea I'd have to bumpstop it out to keep the crank wheel clean.

Unless I cut the bottom half off then I'd have like 6" or uptravel so might do that
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I'm not that dumb :flipoff2:

I mean like I said I can either have 3" of up travel by movin the axle, or I can redo my spings to lift her up but then that'll give me pretty stiff springs.

Which way do ya'll think would be better? Lifted springs or 3" uptravel? I'm gonna have a 116" wheelbase and a wms to wms of about 80" (plus the width of the 44's) so I think I aught to be aight goin up lift wise as far as gettin tippy, my main concern would be the lack of flex with highly arched springs. But would that be about an equal trade off as having only 3" of up travel?
 
Duh I just thought of the fact that I could make some like 4" if not more, drop hangers off the frame and keep the same springs I have to get lift but keep flexxxx.



Hell, I'll just make a 3 foot sub frame assembly while I'm at it, get some 5 ton rockdubs, a rockwell 5 to 1 tcase, and some 66" ag tires and ca'll it a day . . . Its all so clear now :driver:
 
personally, i'd keep it low and just use a center bumpstop and do the 3" of uptravel.

obviously you'll be able to have more that 3" uptravel as far as actual flex goes at the axle ends...
 
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