V10 Triton low/rough idle

StretchASU

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Location
Creedmoor, NC/Claudville, VA
05 F450 4wd V10 200k+ miles

It would die a few seconds after startup and the rpm’s wouldn’t come up without the truck dying. All signs pointed to the fuel pump and filter needing to be changed so I changed the pump, filter and strainers. Now it runs longer and will idle but still dies and idles low.

Is there anything in particular on these that should be checked?

It does have a CEL on which I will scan in the AM.
 
Mine is a 2v, but it just did the same thing. I pulled the iac off and hosed it out with brake cleaner. Started right up like nothing ever happend. I was going to replace it with a new one but never did. Still works fine.
 
Mine is a 2v, but it just did the same thing. I pulled the iac off and hosed it out with brake cleaner. Started right up like nothing ever happend. I was going to replace it with a new one but never did. Still works fine.

Yeah I was leaning toward that but the 3v doesn’t have an IAC. So I’m kind of scratching my head. Google-fu leads to a lot of things it could be.

Code is for a bad coil on cylinder 8. Not surprised there.
 
I never had a 3 valve straight up die from a coil pack. They even idled decent. The coil didn’t rear it’s head until it was put under load. That was just my experience. I could be wrong , but spark doesn’t sound like the issue. Sounds air/fuel related. The wife’s care idled like crap and would die. Cleaned the MAF sensor and all was good.
 
I never had a 3 valve straight up die from a coil pack. They even idled decent. The coil didn’t rear it’s head until it was put under load. That was just my experience. I could be wrong , but spark doesn’t sound like the issue. Sounds air/fuel related. The wife’s care idled like crap and would die. Cleaned the MAF sensor and all was good.

You’re not wrong. I’ve had both of our v10 trucks lose a coil before and neither were like this. The MAF will be where I start next for sure.
 
05 F450 4wd V10 200k+ miles

It would die a few seconds after startup and the rpm’s wouldn’t come up without the truck dying. All signs pointed to the fuel pump and filter needing to be changed so I changed the pump, filter and strainers. Now it runs longer and will idle but still dies and idles low.

Is there anything in particular on these that should be checked?

It does have a CEL on which I will scan in the AM.

Just for S&G's, unplug the coil and try it. Not very likely, but not impossible for it to be shorted inside and pulling voltage down that other sensors or components need.

Also at times I have unplugged the MAF on ford's and had them run better.

Also Also, if yours is an 05 it is throttle by wire correct? Return less or return style fuel system?
 
Quick update. I pulled the entire intake tract from airbox to make sure a mouse had not made a nest anywhere. Cleaned the MAF, the TB and checked all of the sensors to make sure there was not a frayed wire or bad connection. All clear. While apart I got it to do its usual prime, run for 15-20 seconds then die routine. Old scanner was a read only cheapo. I did pick up another scanner (still a HF cheapo) that will read in real time and am going to have to try that next.

Cranked it, ran it and kept it running on starting fluid. Stop spraying at the intake and it dies. So...I go back to the pump. Round 2 I get it going again and put my ear to the filler neck. The pump is audibly priming and running while the truck runs. Once the truck dies, the pump stays running for a split second longer.

Unplugged the bad coil. No change. Throttle by wire and Returnless style fuel system too @fordwheelinman I realized I didn't respond to that question.

In the meantime I also checked and even bypassed the inertia switch in the passenger kick panel to make sure it hadn't been tripped and to rule that out being the issue. No changes. Only two things left I can think of on these is a bad FPDM or the fuel relay that is built in to the fuse panel.
 
Bringing this back up.

Hooked up the scanner and it was reading 13-14psi after its prime cycle. Fuel pressure on an analog gauge hooked inline at the rail was within 1psi of the scanner. A few primes and it would come up to 20ish psi and finally fire off. It would run down to 8psi and cut off. Turns out these things have a non serviceable fuel pump relay in the circuit panel under the dash that tells the FPDM downstream to do its thing and ramp up/down once the truck is running. A little google-fu turned out a company in VA that refurbs your existing fuse panel and replaces this fuse. Turnaround was great, service was great. Now...to go in this weekend, install the refurbished panel and hopefully drive this bitch out of the shop.

They also included this pretty thorough report once it was done to explain what they found once they cracked into the job:

Tech note(s): chstr_441.....Recd 2/24/22 6C3T-14A067-BB *REBUILD ORDER

*Techs are required to note all discrepancies:


Box & unit appear intact with exceptions as noted below

Disassembly:

- Cable lead crimped (lugscrew not held in retaining slot during removal / see note below)

- #17 faulty / several expanded post & a few loose pin sleeves (possible intermittent connection issue)

- Hot tracks (hi-temp indication) / factory solder slag between pins / parts blade residue

- Dirt and/or water residue tracking on board (environmental intrusion indicated, see recommendations below)

Repair / Rebuild, Other:

- Re-seated hard leads and melted in new spot welds

- Chem-cleaned circuit card to remove dirt/water residue shorting possibility between pins

- If applicable, we clean & re-pinch expanded pin sleeves & post to ensure proper connections, replace any incorrect amperage, out of sequence, missing and/or damaged/blown fuses & removable relays IAW repair or rebuild level purchased ….rebuild checklist completed.

- IAW listing, #303 (fuel pump relay) removed / prepped & replaced with new / re-coated & UV cured

Notes, Recommendations & Possible reason for fault(s):

- Ensure battery cables are disconnected before installing fuse box.

- If cable lead crimped during removal is noted above in disassembly section, that twist can cause metal fatigue / *we do straighten but use caution when tightening/re-installing long cable to prevent twist on units cable lead or rotation of the lugscrew within it’s case retainer which can cause severe shorting to other circuits in layered hard leads.

- General: Fuses will usually fail from a short condition or hi-current (overload) issue…in addition to recommended checks, remove any after market add-ons if applicable / Non-factory replacement parts especially those from China tend to have a different metal composition (conductivity) & thinner blades which can result in intermittent connection issues. We compensate for blade difference by either replacing or re-pinching all pins and post to ensure a tight connection based on repair/rebuild level ordered.

- There are known problems on these vehicles. In the absence of an obvious fault from testing, a no start, stall issue & other intermittent fault issues may indicate a vehicle has an intermittent issue or something else external from the fuse box such as loose pins, water infiltration causing shorting -or- aging parts/components that draw higher amperage across circuits leading to part failure ie; fuel pump, incorrect signals/ground from pcm, dirty fuel filter, ignition switch, wire corrosion from leaks, etc. .... An owner can have the inputs & current draw on older parts/components along applicable circuit(s) verified by qualified personnel for in-tolerance values to help prevent a similar or repeat failure. All circuits did pass preliminary testing with known good inputs so we completed service IAW your chosen listings description by completing a thorough refurbishment of the unit & re-flowing all parts & components to help rule out any issues related to unit but other than those listed above, only found various parts that were not in factory specs. All parts & components are tested before leaving our facility for proper readings/operation so if your original indications are still present after installation, look for causes external to unit as described above which can mimic a fuse box issue. One of the more common faults if installed on your vehicle is a positive lead from the battery crossing the AC lines which can fray from vibration where it contacts the bare metal and short out causing a stall condition. Additionally, check the wire to terminal connections inside the connector which can mimic a fuse box issue if loose or corroded & in rare cases, the BCM control chip or corroded wiring to fuel injectors can also cause stalling issues.

**Dirt and/or water infiltration indicated in this unit: Ensure all covers are installed correctly/tightly. Inspect unit connectors and the wiring harness from the firewall by the cowl for grn/wht and/or dark carbon tracking residue & corrosion indications. Additionally, check for leaks around passengers top right of windshield and/or blocked drain hole in sunroof well located in front area, right side. It is light at this time but can become a serious issue. If unresolved, a leak will allow water to enter passenger side pillar & run directly into fuse box electronics & wire harness below sill plate causing intermittent fault indications, current changes on circuit from corrosion, shorts and/or fire.


Circuit Test: PASSED / Warranty Seals Applied

Thank you... we appreciate your business,
Steve @ 5StarRepair

-end of report-
 
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