Vacuum Brake Bleeders

53flattie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2006
Location
Easley, SC
I have several projects on the horizon that will involve bleeding brakes. With that in mind, I’m considering biting the bullet and shelling out the $ for a vacuum brake bleeder.

Does anyone have any experience with them? Are they worth it? Any suggested brand or model?

I’m not a professional mechanic, so I don’t really need an absolute top-of-the-line unit. But I also don’t want to waste money on one that doesn’t work...

Thanks!


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I've had hit or miss results with the hand pump kind, the ones to get are the big commercial ones that plug into shop air hoses.
 
I have the high dollar Mighty Vac one at work, it works good but nothing beats an old fashioned pressure bleed with some on the pedal. Also bought the cheap Horrible Freight one for the house, it is the compressed air style, it works ok but don't seem to make very much vacuum. I like the check valves that fit over the bleeder screw, put it on give it a few pumps(slowly) and ready to go.
 
Buy one of these and don't look back. Work awesome. Stuff hose in bleeder. Pump brakes, close, go to next wheel. I've got the expensive kit that has pressure and vacuum. I usually only ever use it to pull vacuum on the whole clutch system, by capping the reservoir and pull the air out from the top. Especially on older ranger/explorers.

IMG_20181129_132231058.jpg
 
Until now, I had only been looking at the vacuum style, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OM751EC/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But a couple of you have said the pressure-style is better - right?

The one posted above is basically the same price as the vacuum unit. My only concern would be adapting it to all the master cylinders that I might come in contact with. Has anyone found one that it wouldn’t fit (and I’m talking about standard vehicles here, not one-off stuff like a Delorean or something)?


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I had a set of the self bleeders on my CJ, but next time I went to use them, they must have gotten stuck. Wouldn't work!
Bought a mid priced vacuum bleeder from HF. It seems to work. At least on an old CJ.
 
a_kelley said:
Buy one of these and don't look back. Work awesome. Stuff hose in bleeder. Pump brakes, close, go to next wheel. I've got the expensive kit that has pressure and vacuum. I usually only ever use it to pull vacuum on the whole clutch system, by capping the reservoir and pull the air out from the top. Especially on older ranger/explorers.

View attachment 281068
Click to expand...
This on a bucket or something that is higher than your bleeders....... And you'll be hydrated.
20181129_172308.jpeg


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We have a pressure bleeder at work that we use. It's $$$ but works. I usually do the traditional method and crack the bleeder screw open, stick on a piece of surgical tube onto the bleeder screw and the other end down in a container full of brake fluid.
 
I have a Motive pressure bleeder that I used for my mini-fleet of Subarus for at least 10 years. If you know what you're working on, you can just buy the adapters you need and be done with it. I think the Subaru setup was $50, and it works great. It's a small garden sprayer that's been adapted for brake use.
 
No fries said:
This on a bucket or something that is higher than your bleeders....... And you'll be hydrated.View attachment 281071

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Click to expand...

I’ve been using the bottle and tubing method for years, but thought that the newer technology might be better. But maybe not...

Re: the pressure vs. vacuum - I plan to use this on older vehicles (mostly Jeeps and others with square master cylinders). It looks like the Motive unit requires you to use the universal lid and chains/bolts to secure it in those cases?


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I'm not a fan of the "one person bleed" most of the ones I've used didn't do a good job. I get the idea, probably a good product, haven't found one that I like! I prefer a gravity bleed, then an old fashion pressure bleed!
 
I was gonna post a pic of the waterbottle and tubing method, but someone beat me to it.
Since I work by myself ALL THE FREAKIN' TIME that's the way I do it.
The added benefit of flushing old out and almost always putting in all fresh fluid is major win.
(have you ever dealt with a contaminated brake fluid issue?)

I just use longer tubing and put the bottle where I can see the tubing going in ..... pump until there is no mo bubbles.
I do buy fluid by the quart, there it that .....


Matt
 
a_kelley said:
Reverse pressure bleeding is the new way to do it. Force the air up with new fluid.
Click to expand...
I was going to ask, for those doing pressure bleeding, are you pushing from the master or bleeder?

Seems like reverse pressure bleeding would require less adapters, but then you need a way to catch the overflow at the master?
 
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