Walk through door install advice needed

Jeff B

Jeff B

Thanos was right
Joined
Dec 23, 2006
Location
Lincolnton N.C.
Installing walk through door on my work shop. Do I need to trim around the brick mold so the door sits against the framing or mount a pressure treated board under the threshold? I am thinking the trim but it the threshold will still not be even with the concrete. Also the concrete has quite the dip there. How does one shim the threshold so its solid?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
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shawn said:
What sort of door isn't a "walk through door"?
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I was wonder WTF he was talking about also.

Maybe as opposed to a rollup or garage door?
... but you can walk through those too.
 
I'd trim it back, too.

Any flashing or anything across the top of the frame? Or does it depend on a bead of caulk to keep water out from between the brickmold and siding?

On the bearing surface for the threshold, have you thought about pouring a pad outside the door, maybe 3x3, sloped out. Give that threshold something to land on. On my old house, the garage man door threshold overhung kinda like that...the builder used about two tubes of caulk to bed it and fill the space. Of course, that eventually failed, but lasted a few years.
 
Shim the sides to match the siding. Add a pressure treated 2x4 at the bottom to support the threshold. Secure the 2x4 with concrete anchors.
 
You can do either method. The way you have it in the pictures is common if you have a porch/deck ledger below it, and there's a piece of vertical wood between the two (I want to say it's called a "kickboard", but I can't remember) that is just a support piece for the threshold.

Whatever you do, you need a proper sill pan under the threshold, and if you do use a kickboard or trim batten or ledger-type thing to support the edge, you need to flash it properly.

You also need head flashing (above the door), and to figure out how to waterproof the entire rest of the door opening and tie to the house wrap or whatever is protecting the siding. I'd trim back the siding at least, so you can caulk the brickmold to the sheathing after waterproofing the opening to the housewrap.
 
kaiser715 said:
Any flashing or anything across the top of the frame? Or does it depend on a bead of caulk to keep water out from between the brickmold and siding?
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No flashing yet, ill probably get a bead of caulk after paint. There is a soffit overhang from the roof.


shawn said:
What sort of door isn't a "walk through door"?
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Any door that one would not walk through..


I believe I will trim the siding and use the 2x4 treated kick board. Thanks for all the replies.
 
Jeff B said:
I believe I will trim the siding and use the 2x4 treated kick board. Thanks for all the replies.
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Get a piece of Z flashing in over the head casing if you can. Seal it underneath but not on top.
 
shawn said:
Get a piece of Z flashing in over the head casing if you can. Seal it underneath but not on top.
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I, with my very limited knowledge of framing and siding had to google that. I surely will, going to lowes to get paint and a sheet of siding this morning. Thanks
 
Jeff B said:
I, with my very limited knowledge of framing and siding had to google that. I surely will, going to lowes to get paint and a sheet of siding this morning. Thanks
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Depending on how you install the door, it might be tough to get it in place over the brick mould and behind the siding. If it doesn't fit, you can always knock the brick mould off the door (all three pieces should come off together), slip the z flashing up into place, then reinstall the moulding.
 
shawn said:
Depending on how you install the door, it might be tough to get it in place over the brick mould and behind the siding. If it doesn't fit, you can always knock the brick mould off the door (all three pieces should come off together), slip the z flashing up into place, then reinstall the moulding.
Click to expand...

I installed a new door at my rear entrance, had to remove brick mold and trim to fit inside the brick and reframe the rough opening. Was a bitch..

I think I can get the flashing in, may need to tril a little extra on the top. Flashing then door.
 
If you go through the hassle of removing the brickmold, use flashing the tape from the jamb to the sheathing and then reinstall the brickmold. It’ll be a better barrier than any caulk job ever will be.

as for shimming the sill, you can use standard shims. The problem with that is you won’t have a good caulking surface between the sill and subfloor and a sill pan is the only good option (although most look like shit on the interior)
 
Came out much better.
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