Weak warn m8000 clicking?

jeepinmatt said:
Got it loose from the rig? If so, bring it over one evening this week. If not, I might can swing by at some point.
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If l can get motivated to take it off. Shitty part is it needs to be ON a rig to be sure it’s working properly.
 
GONOVRIT said:
If l can get motivated to take it off. Shitty part is it needs to be ON a rig to be sure it’s working properly.
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Well, first it needs to work properly off the rig to determine if it's a crap winch or just a Dallas electrician :p
 
l jumped the posts, doesn’t seem like it’s the motor. I’m definitely not an electrician, being colorblind l always figured it would be best if l stayed away from it lol.
 
I'm having the same issue with my m8000. I have all new solenoids, double checked connections and it spools in and out, but under load it only goes for a few seconds before the solenoids start clicking rapidly and it basically stops pulling. Even when. It does spool in, it draws a lot of current on my TJ, and doesn't have any pulling power at all before it starts clicking and my voltage on the dash is down around 8 or less... low enough for the dash to beep and say check gauges.

I have a relocated solenoid box to under my brake booster but am using heavy gauge welding leads, much thicker than the original wires. I'm wondering if this could be the issue with the length of wire, but as I said the wire I used is very thick and heavy duty.
 
ihaterice said:
I'm having the same issue with my m8000. I have all new solenoids, double checked connections and it spools in and out, but under load it only goes for a few seconds before the solenoids start clicking rapidly and it basically stops pulling. Even when. It does spool in, it draws a lot of current on my TJ, and doesn't have any pulling power at all before it starts clicking and my voltage on the dash is down around 8 or less... low enough for the dash to beep and say check gauges.

I have a relocated solenoid box to under my brake booster but am using heavy gauge welding leads, much thicker than the original wires. I'm wondering if this could be the issue with the length of wire, but as I said the wire I used is very thick and heavy duty.
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Sounds like it's shot. I'll give you $100 for it.

Are you pulling with the motor running, or just straight off the battery? Our TJs have 130A alternators and decent batteries, and will pull enough current near stall that the ALT and Check Engine lights come on. That's with regular old 4ga wire. But you can chock all four wheels, put it in 4lo and set the parking brake, and it'll drag the Jeep across flat ground long before the dash lights ever come on.
 
shawn said:
Sounds like it's shot. I'll give you $100 for it.

Are you pulling with the motor running, or just straight off the battery? Our TJs have 130A alternators and decent batteries, and will pull enough current near stall that the ALT and Check Engine lights come on. That's with regular old 4ga wire. But you can chock all four wheels, put it in 4lo and set the parking brake, and it'll drag the Jeep across flat ground long before the dash lights ever come on.
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That's with the jeep running. It won't drag my jeep more than 15 or 20 feet in neutral while holding the brakes ligh enough for it to still roll. It'll go maybe 10 to 15 before it's beeping on the dash and I get out and listen and it's like the switch is being turned on and off with the clicking at the solenoids. I can hold rpms up at like 2.5k and it doesn't get much farther before I have to stop for it to charge up and for the winch to take a break. And I've tried with 2 different controllers, one original and 1 wireless Warn kit I got.
And my jeep has a brand new battery, alt seems to be working perfectly, have killed the battery before and less than a 5 min drive has it charged back up
 
ihaterice said:
That's with the jeep running. It won't drag my jeep more than 15 or 20 feet in neutral while holding the brakes ligh enough for it to still roll. It'll go maybe 10 to 15 before it's beeping on the dash and I get out and listen and it's like the switch is being turned on and off with the clicking at the solenoids. I can hold rpms up at like 2.5k and it doesn't get much farther before I have to stop for it to charge up and for the winch to take a break. And I've tried with 2 different controllers, one original and 1 wireless Warn kit I got.
And my jeep has a brand new battery, alt seems to be working perfectly, have killed the battery before and less than a 5 min drive has it charged back up
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If the wires are good and the alternator is working, the motor might be shorted. My $100 offer still stands.
 
shawn said:
If the wires are good and the alternator is working, the motor might be shorted. My $100 offer still stands.
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I was thinking motor next but wasn't sure. Doing some digging online everything I've read about the motor being bad symptoms are the motor not working in one direction or the other so I wasn't sure. And thanks for the offer but I'd like to try to get it going before I give up, plus I put synthetic line on it and got a Warn wireless winch remote for it before I realized it had this issue, so I've got a good bit into it and I can't give it up cheap.
 
I'm mostly kidding about the offer, but if the armature is shorted, it'll have high amp draw, but won't pull for shit. Overheating the motor will cause that to happen.

You can pull the armature and check the resistance across each pair of conductors in the commutator. Just start with any two on opposite sides of the commutator and work your way around. The values should all be about the same. If you have a few that are the same and a few that are a lot lower (think 75pct off or more), then the armature is fucked.

There are a few other tests you can run, maybe check commutator pads to the armature body (closed circuit is bad). Google could help with some other test ideas.

Visual inspection is your friend, too. Melted parts are bad.
 
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