welded rear?

justjeepin86 said:
So my question is, why do you not have to worry about tire wear with a locker. The only benifit is that you are not locked coasting. If you are on the gas at all, they are locked like a spool. So pulling in a parking spot, driving through a parking lot, and making tight turns will cause your tires to wear just like a welded rear if you are under power.
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Just how hard to you pull into parking spots??!!:rolleyes:

I believe lockers will still unlock at low power input if the bind is enuff to overcome the springs.
 
Spool baby

Highway speeds on a welded rearend are going to be different than highway speeds for me.
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Why would there be a difference between a spool and welded?

I spooled my CJ5. It squeals like crazy in parking lots. Everybody stares at you.
 
GMAC said:
how did i know u would say weld it?
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Cause I'm right. There are some very important things to do right. Make damn sure you get all of the welding slag out or it will eat up the bearings = bad juju. Also, there are many ways to weld one, and it can definately be done wrong. Too much heat will make the carrier brittle and explode (also = bad), etc., call me at work an I'll seriously tell you ALL the good and the bad. I ran welded diffs in two 2WD, yes 2WD, street vehicles!
 
atblis said:
Why would there be a difference between a spool and welded?
I spooled my CJ5. It squeals like crazy in parking lots. Everybody stares at you.
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More aggressive tires and/or more air pressure will fix.
 
justjeepin86 said:
So my question is, why do you not have to worry about tire wear with a locker. The only benifit is that you are not locked coasting. If you are on the gas at all, they are locked like a spool. So pulling in a parking spot, driving through a parking lot, and making tight turns will cause your tires to wear just like a welded rear if you are under power.
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Sorry, I know this is an old thread, but this needs to be addressed. A lunchbox locker will always allow a tire to be overdriven. Example: If you're powering through a turn, the outside tire is turning at a higher speed than the carrier. When that happens, the cam driver doesn't have pressure on it from the cross shaft and it can ratchet. So, a tire can actually spin faster than the carrier, but never slower. This process isn't seamless unless you're very steady on the skinny pedal. If you can hold a perfect amount of throttle around a turn and not "check up" on the gas, you can make very smooth turns with a lunchbox locker.

With that said, Grant don't weld it. IF you're looking to save a few bucks, run a minispool. Yeah, you're not doing anything about the rumored weak carrier, but you can pull it out at any time and throw the spiders back in. There are cheap minispools and "good" minispools though. I ran a cheap one for a season and it started to crack around the holes for the cross shaft. The new one I have is 4340 (I think) and it is much better. It has a very different look and feel to the steel. So far, so good on the new minispool. It gives you the feel of a welded or spooled rear with the convienence of swapping the spiders in for the winter or off season. It is very predictable on or off road. You'll also get the added bennies of 3 wheeling around all left turns. That get some strange looks at the mall.:rolleyes:
 
got about half way through on the first page, saw the usual responses from this question. I was running a welded rear with 42s, i wheeled it along with driving it almost everyday. i didnt mind it at all, even on the highway... if you end up not liking it for some reason, you could just look at it as how much more capable youre junk will be. my input from personal experience, weld it.
 
Jonnyjpr said:
If you like ur tires, dont weld it up. I welded my d35 with 33's on it. Real bad tire wear in the back. And it chirped around every corner.
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I was thinking of welding my d35 with 32" ssr's but i'm afraid that the axle will break pretty fast. I run it on the street to get to the mud or sand, but will probably be going to play on the rocks at ure, how will the axle hold up if i weld it?
 
if it is not a c-clip axle weld it. they will take quite a beating. the problem i have seen with c-clip axles being welded, and run on the street is side loading on the axle button just inside of the retaining clip. i have seen more than one pop off in the retainer groove. when that happens on the trail it is not that big of a deal providing you have a spare. if it happens on the road at speed you are in for a bad day, not to mention that others might be involved too.
 
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