Welding query

BigBody79

BigBody79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Location
Lumberton
I’m making this pile of parts I need the spindle to be perpendicular to the plate I’d also like it to not warp. What’s going to be my best method for doing such?
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Tack it all into place then stitch weld it with a quick travel speed. What’s the load looking like on the spindle? Just standing something up or something hanging off of it?
 
How perpendicular? I personally would clamp and angle plate and v block to the round piece and clamp the other side to the base plate then put 4 small welds around the round piece. The shitty thing is you've already turned the end of your round piece so theres no fixing it afterwards if you're off. Then tack all of your gussets in place. Then slowly weld it out without putting too much heat in any area. There is no way it won't move though, that's why if it's critical you leave stock and machine afterwards.
 
braxton357 said:
How perpendicular? I personally would clamp and angle plate and v block to the round piece and clamp the other side to the base plate then put 4 small welds around the round piece. The shitty thing is you've already turned the end of your round piece so theres no fixing it afterwards if you're off. Then tack all of your gussets in place. Then slowly weld it out without putting too much heat in any area. There is no way it won't move though, that's why if it's critical you leave stock and machine afterwards.
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Judging by the chosen material I would say the load is predictably high. If not a well place TIG weld with an effective throat smaller than the parent material would be highly effective in combating CRE. "Coefficient Rate Of Expansion. Fancy term for warping.
Truth be told all welds creep. Good welds tend to creep more. Like the above said. Best practice is first decide the needed weld strength, then plan accordingly to secondary machining or heat treatment. In critical applications often both are used.

If it's non critical. Decide what you can live with. Weld the cylinder first. Notch gusset to clear weld. Put in fixture with center spacer to effectively dome the plate when clamping. Weld gusset. Of coarse the amount of deflection is equal to the amount of pull from the weld. Trial and error would be needed to wrangle to excepted results.

The short for needs to be close.....1/16 thick fender washer. Clamp, weld with hot Mig stringer bead. No doodles or fancy manipulation. Cool, release, and finish with well placed BFH.
 
Is it getting welded to the base plate? That looks like a thin piece. If not, I would burn it all in and then chuck the tube back up and face the bottom. It would be an interrupted cut, but it would be fine. Hell, I'd do that first if the flat plate would be used anyway. Then weld to the plate.
 
I’ve got a stick welder and an angle grinder. I did drill a hole for the spindle to go through. Currently just tacked in place

thank you for the replies. Just don’t have that equipment
 
BigBody79 said:
I’ve got a stick welder and an angle grinder. I did drill a hole for the spindle to go through. Currently just tacked in place

thank you for the replies. Just don’t have that equipment
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Shoot doing the repairs I do I run mostly stick!
 
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