welding question

mbalbritton

#@$%!
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Lakeland, FL
I have a fairly heavy gauge Spring that is used on my JD mower/tractor. I don't like the way another part attaches to it, so I was wondering, if I found a steel nut that fit it like I want, is there any issue welding to Spring steel?

Basically, I want to find a nut that will fit in the end of the spring and weld it into the spring.

b
 
do not weld to spring steel. It will no longer be "spring" steel and will sag and fail and eventually break off

people have done it in the past, but every time I see welding on "spring" steel, it makes me cringe and is reminisent of what I'd seen in a booty fab thread...
 
That's kinda what I was thinking, but it seems I've seen manufactured parts that had nut inserts in the ends of springs that were welded in. Maybe it was welded then treated again afterwards, I don't know.
 
any ideas on improving the wheel while your at it? Moron!


:driver: i kid, i kid.
 
Only the area heated by the welded would loose the spring treatment. So if it's a big spring and you keep the rest of it cool (in theory) only a little of the spring would be damaged.
 
Only the area heated by the welded would loose the spring treatment. So if it's a big spring and you keep the rest of it cool (in theory) only a little of the spring would be damaged.

aaaaaaand that brings my other thought about it in. I'm sure I could probably find all kids of opinions on this,thanks for all, and I'm not hunting for the answer I want, just looking for edumakashun.

The spring is about 10" long, I'm talking about welding at the first coil. The forces on it would be Extension only, no Shear forces. If it fails, I loose tension on the Deck Drive belt and the blades stop spinning. I'd know pretty damn quick.

...still pondering alternatives to welding....
 
Post a picture of it, easier to visualize it & help you with other ideas.
 
I've seen something similar done in a couple industrial apps...

One used nuts that are much larger across the hex than normal (ex: 1/4"-20 nuts are 7/16" hex, but I have some that are 9/16"), then use a grinder to "thread" the outside of the nut. Spin the "nut" inside the spring & drop a tack between the 2 to hold the nut inside the spring... little chance of fubaring either that way.

The other is similar, but used a flange (like a coil retaining bracket) that fit into spring and the nut was captured on it...
 
Phone pics, hope this shows up alright.
 

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the thing about a spring is that the force is the same in every part of it while it is under stress. so while it is true that you would only be weakening a small part of the spring, it doesnt matter, it will fail right there..
 
I wish I knew how much force is exerted on it and how much the welded joint could handle.... I guess that's the question and there's no real way to find out with out "real tests"

ok, so anyone else have any ideas on better solutions?
 
Something you might not be able to decipher from the picts and descriptions is this:

(See image) the raw edge of the spring where the Green arrow is pointing is cutting into the alum. plug and screwing up the threads on it. thus making it impossible to thread the alum. plug into the spring.

so if I could bevel the spring like the red line shows I think that would alleviate the issue. now.... how the hell to I separate the coils enough to get the grinder cut off wheel in there? :shaking:

Edit: answer = Cram a flat head in the coils, and take a dremel to it.
 

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Weld a nut to a washer and thread the washer into the spring a couple of coils. You have to grind on the nut a bit to get it to fit inside the spring.

Ohhh, I kinda like that idear! :beer:
 
You need to weld the spring under water so it stays cool. :D
 
Weld a nut to a washer and thread the washer into the spring a couple of coils. You have to grind on the nut a bit to get it to fit inside the spring.


Good idea.


stick the thing in the spring & put a small worm clamp on it.
 
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