i'm looking at buying a beater truck that i'll lift and use for the mud only...as fae as hieght i need to keep it at a descent hieght due to my garage door is not the tall...35's would be nice...does anyone know if the stock axles can handle 35's?
A 85 will have a dana 28 TTB in front and a ford 7.5 rear.
I ran up to 32 inch tires on my dana 28 but I started breaking stub shafts. Never broke the 7.5 rear.
If you want to run 35 inch tires I would look for a Dana 35 TTB and a 8.8 out of a latter model. You can get these for cheap. (I have gave away several sets of these) Most 89 and up models with a V6 have these and I think all models after 92.
They should bolt right in place of what you have.
If you want to run something larger a Early Bronco D44 is a easy sway with mostly junkyard parts.(this is what I run) Along with a Early bronco 9 inch rear.
For more info on the B2 axles and Dana 44 swap check out.
therangerstation.com
rrorc.com
I've done the same swap as above on a B2 and then a Ranger with the same axles as above. The only disadvantages are these: Classic Bronco=Hard to find; especially factory disc. You can swap to disc though. The 44 in the Classics were all low pinion as far as I know and the steering joint in Classic Bronco's are smaller and weaker. The nine's in the rear also generally come 28 spline in them. If your going to fabricate and do the swap in hind sight on my part I'dd go full size 44 and 9. High pinion 44 and 31 spline rears with extra width to boot is what you would gain. The after market would supports them all about the same. Regardless of which ones you choose both will drasticlly be better than stock, I BUILT STOCK if you can call it that with all the aftermarket could provide (insert young and stupid here) and broke a long list of parts along the way. Save your money and research, honestly if yout going to flog the out of it consider going the strongest you can afford you'll spend less in the long run.
all good info...i never mess w a ford before...just able to get it for 200$ w/ 120,000 miles on it w/ a new rebuilt carb...every thing works the guy just dosent need it...used only as a beach 4x4 for fishing...actually no real rust probs either...it will be for play only...so, how about a dana 30 hi pinon front and somthing like a gm 10 bolt or chrysler 8.25...i know the 8.25 can hold a 35'' tire...and a built 30...would that be ok?
can't wait...i'll do somthing just after i do somthing to my liberty...i'm doing somthing special...every one will see when i'm done...all custom and nothing like...promise
I would go for a 44 over the built 30. If you going to put money in the axle it would be better spent on the 44.
I have been running my 28 spline 9 inch for 4+ years with 35 boggers and have not broken a shaft yet. Now that I said that I will break a shaft in the driveway.(I have a habit of broken front joints and shafts on flat ground even after upgrades)
If you want to use coil springs the EB44 is a easy swap. Leaf springs tend to work easier with the full size 44. Just a note I run a set of Rough Country 4.5 XJ springs with my setup and they flex great but are just a tad soft without my shocks turned up to setting 5 (RS9000). I run them upside down and made a custom spring mount ontop of the radus arm to attach them.
warriorwelding is on to something about the high pinion axle.
On your B2 the front driveshaft slip yoke is built into the t-case. (BW-1350 t-case) If your drive shaft is much shorter than mine you may have problems with the front drive shaft binding at the T-case yoke(I had to grind mine out so it would not) when the drivers side flexes down. The high pinion axle would help this or you could swap to a later model (90 and up) BW-1354 t-case out of a ranger or explorer that uses a slip yoke in the drive shaft. I just bought two of these for $50 off of e-bay so it is a cheap swap.
interested in sellind one of those cases, currently have the same problem and a 302 trans transfer swap seems to far into the future. PM me if so thanks