what do you think of spacers
- Thread starter jake
- Start date
RenegadeStang
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2006
- Location
- Statesboro, GA
I'd stick to 2". You may run into other problems (short brakelines, driveline vibes, etc.) at 3" or more.
Elliott
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- San Diego, CA
2" BUDGET BOOST (BB) GENERAL INFORMATION
BASICS:
A Budget Boost (aka: BB) is a coil spacer that lifts your ZJ or WJ 2".
A budget boost can be installed on all ZJ's or WJ's 2WD/4WD, Limited/Laredo and both V8/I6.
SPRINGS:
With a BB, you keep stock springs. The coil spacer (BB) sits ontop of the spring and adds an additional 2" of space between the spring and uni-frame (thus giving you 2" of lift).
If you have non-up country suspension, you can put in up-country springs off another ZJ or WJ for approximately .5" more lift and a slightly firmer ride.
Adding UC to a ZJ (with part #'s): http://www.geocities.com/frankieroti/UpCountinstall.htm OR http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/upcountrysprings.htm
Adding UC to a WJ (with part#'s): http://www.wjjeeps.com/upcountry.htm#UCUPGRADE
SHOCKS:
Yes, new shocks are NOT necessary. Since you have the suspension taken apart anyway,and the original parts are, most likely, in bad shape I would replace them. Stock stocks (either stock up-country or normal stock shocks) will work, but they will limit the amount of flex you can get. The old shocks may ride harsher than before, because they will be slightly more extended than before. DT3000's and Rusty's Hydro Shocks seem to be the favorite low-cost shock on this forum.
CONTROL ARMS:
Most often, this issue does not need to be addressed. The stock control arms will work fine, however, the bushings need to be in good condition to prevent the onset of "Death Wobble" (read below for more info).
You will notice after a 2"BB the LCA's (lower control arms) will be at a more severe angle to the ground. This will cause a slightly harsher ride over pot holes and such.
Some people (not many) have had to purchase aftermarket lower control arms to prevent Death Wobble (DW).
SWAY BAR LINKS:
The stock sway-bar links will work for a 2"BB. If you want disconects, I suggest JKS adjustable Quick disco's.
BUMP-STOPS:
Bump-stops limit the amount of compression your springs have (how far up your axle can move) These are NOT necessary unless you plan on heavy off-roading (disconnecting the sway-bars and really flexing) and installing 31” or larger tires. If you drive a mall cruiser, these are not necessary.
GEARING/ AXLES/ DRIVESHAFTS:
You should not need new gears or upgraded axles with a BB. Mileage and acceleration may be hurt slightly due the larger/heavier wheels. Usually, new drive shafts are not needed if they are in good condition before lifting.
STEERING STABILIZER:
I highly suggest a new Steering Stabilizer. The stock unit will work, but it may not be powerful enough to combat the extra strain of larger tires and steeper steering angles. The OME SS (SD40) seems to be the forum favorite these days.
ALIGNMENT:
You need an alignment after installing a BB. This will help prevent DW and get your alignment back into spec. If you don't do this your tires will wear quickly and/or DW may occur.
TIRES:
A 31x10.50 R15 or 30x9.50 R15 (or the eqiuvalent metric sizes for 16" wheels) will work with just a BB and stock wheels.
To fit the 31's you MAY have to trim a small piece of trim off of the front bumper and add 1 or two washers behind the steering stops.
Make sure the wheels and tires are balanced properly before installing.
TRACK BARS:
Track bars center the front and rear axles. Normally, an aftermarket track-bar is NOT necessary. Most people only need these after moving to over 4" of lift.
Just make sure you stock track bars are in good condition with no play in the bushings or mounting points.
BRAKE LINES:
Stock Brake Lines should be long enough to handle the additional 2" of lift. This is normally not a problem
GOING HIGHER?
Many people have added a BB ontop of their 1.5", 3", 4", 7", etc. lift springs for additional height. This topic is better left for another thread. But, yes, it can be done.
SO WHAT ABOUT DW?
Read this link:
http://www.kevinsjeepparts.com/techa...athwobble.html
WHERE DO I PURCHASE?
kolak@aol.com
www.kevinsjeepparts.com
www.extreme-engineering.com (BB and Bump-Stops only)
www.rustysoffroad.com
HOW DO I INSTALL THIS THING?
Here are a few excellent write-ups (with pictures):
ZJ:
http://www.jeepzj.com/robert/JeepZJ.htm
http://www.offroadexchange.com/Teraboost.htm
http://www.kevinsjeepparts.com/install/installbb.html
WJ:
http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/wjteraflex2lift.htm
If you have questions about installation, Please read each of these ENTIRELY, THEN post new thread with a specific question if you still cant find what your looking for...
BASICS:
A Budget Boost (aka: BB) is a coil spacer that lifts your ZJ or WJ 2".
A budget boost can be installed on all ZJ's or WJ's 2WD/4WD, Limited/Laredo and both V8/I6.
SPRINGS:
With a BB, you keep stock springs. The coil spacer (BB) sits ontop of the spring and adds an additional 2" of space between the spring and uni-frame (thus giving you 2" of lift).
If you have non-up country suspension, you can put in up-country springs off another ZJ or WJ for approximately .5" more lift and a slightly firmer ride.
Adding UC to a ZJ (with part #'s): http://www.geocities.com/frankieroti/UpCountinstall.htm OR http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/upcountrysprings.htm
Adding UC to a WJ (with part#'s): http://www.wjjeeps.com/upcountry.htm#UCUPGRADE
SHOCKS:
Yes, new shocks are NOT necessary. Since you have the suspension taken apart anyway,and the original parts are, most likely, in bad shape I would replace them. Stock stocks (either stock up-country or normal stock shocks) will work, but they will limit the amount of flex you can get. The old shocks may ride harsher than before, because they will be slightly more extended than before. DT3000's and Rusty's Hydro Shocks seem to be the favorite low-cost shock on this forum.
CONTROL ARMS:
Most often, this issue does not need to be addressed. The stock control arms will work fine, however, the bushings need to be in good condition to prevent the onset of "Death Wobble" (read below for more info).
You will notice after a 2"BB the LCA's (lower control arms) will be at a more severe angle to the ground. This will cause a slightly harsher ride over pot holes and such.
Some people (not many) have had to purchase aftermarket lower control arms to prevent Death Wobble (DW).
SWAY BAR LINKS:
The stock sway-bar links will work for a 2"BB. If you want disconects, I suggest JKS adjustable Quick disco's.
BUMP-STOPS:
Bump-stops limit the amount of compression your springs have (how far up your axle can move) These are NOT necessary unless you plan on heavy off-roading (disconnecting the sway-bars and really flexing) and installing 31” or larger tires. If you drive a mall cruiser, these are not necessary.
GEARING/ AXLES/ DRIVESHAFTS:
You should not need new gears or upgraded axles with a BB. Mileage and acceleration may be hurt slightly due the larger/heavier wheels. Usually, new drive shafts are not needed if they are in good condition before lifting.
STEERING STABILIZER:
I highly suggest a new Steering Stabilizer. The stock unit will work, but it may not be powerful enough to combat the extra strain of larger tires and steeper steering angles. The OME SS (SD40) seems to be the forum favorite these days.
ALIGNMENT:
You need an alignment after installing a BB. This will help prevent DW and get your alignment back into spec. If you don't do this your tires will wear quickly and/or DW may occur.
TIRES:
A 31x10.50 R15 or 30x9.50 R15 (or the eqiuvalent metric sizes for 16" wheels) will work with just a BB and stock wheels.
To fit the 31's you MAY have to trim a small piece of trim off of the front bumper and add 1 or two washers behind the steering stops.
Make sure the wheels and tires are balanced properly before installing.
TRACK BARS:
Track bars center the front and rear axles. Normally, an aftermarket track-bar is NOT necessary. Most people only need these after moving to over 4" of lift.
Just make sure you stock track bars are in good condition with no play in the bushings or mounting points.
BRAKE LINES:
Stock Brake Lines should be long enough to handle the additional 2" of lift. This is normally not a problem
GOING HIGHER?
Many people have added a BB ontop of their 1.5", 3", 4", 7", etc. lift springs for additional height. This topic is better left for another thread. But, yes, it can be done.
SO WHAT ABOUT DW?
Read this link:
http://www.kevinsjeepparts.com/techa...athwobble.html
WHERE DO I PURCHASE?
kolak@aol.com
www.kevinsjeepparts.com
www.extreme-engineering.com (BB and Bump-Stops only)
www.rustysoffroad.com
HOW DO I INSTALL THIS THING?
Here are a few excellent write-ups (with pictures):
ZJ:
http://www.jeepzj.com/robert/JeepZJ.htm
http://www.offroadexchange.com/Teraboost.htm
http://www.kevinsjeepparts.com/install/installbb.html
WJ:
http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/wjteraflex2lift.htm
If you have questions about installation, Please read each of these ENTIRELY, THEN post new thread with a specific question if you still cant find what your looking for...