what kind of axles and stuff do i need to stright axle a 99 chevy 1500

Joined
Mar 7, 2012
well i been looking into putting my chevy on 40s or bigger. but wanna get rid of that ifs stuff thats in the front. but wanna make it one ton. any ideas for me? i know i needa change the transfer case. but dont know what one to go with
 
Just because i'm board i'm gonna make you a price sheet

hp-60 frt axle - 800-1000
gears, locker shafts - 800-1200

14b/sterling -300
gears, locker, brakes - 800

np203/205 doubler - 1200-1500

susp - 2-5k who knows

tires - 2-3k

So a grand total of 7900 at best, not including all the small stuff that adds up fast. Or just go buy an older chevy one ton as recommend to you in your other post and do a few little things and get done what you are trying to do. You can choose weather or not to take the advice of the people on this board, most of the people on here have learned the hard way or learned from somebody that did.
 
Are we talkin about a 99 K1500 or a 99 Silverado like the one in my avatar? Two completely different animals and it makes a HUGE difference in what axles you can or can't use and the price of the swap. Nobody makes a leaf spring kit for the 1/2 tons anymore that I know of. I got mine from Off Road Direct and shortly thereafter, they went belly up or sold out to someone else. There MAY be someone that makes a link/coilover kit still, but I'm not sure. Too much money for me.

Since my frame is only 37" wide where the rear springs hangers are for the front suspension, I had to use a 78-79 Ford Dana 60. They cost more. On an 88-98, you can use a Chevy axle, 78-79 Ford, or a newer Ford axle with the 36" spring width. I scored the front for 800 bucks in great shape. I regeared from 3.55 to 4.10, locked the front, rebuilt it, had to get lower adjustable kingpins to get the 2* of positive camber out, and got new Warn Premium lockout hubs. I also did some machine work to the hubs so a GM wheel would fit and I notched out the backs of the rotors for an ABS sensor so everything would still work.

For the rear I used an AAM 11.5 out of a 2500HD with an 8.1 gas motor. Already had 4.10s in it, good brakes and was ready to go. It bolts right in and uses the same spring width and parking brake cables. I sold the stock 8.6 rear axle for the same price I picked this monster up for.

An NP241 is your best bet with a Silverado. The K1500 already has one. My truck is a base model and has a floor shift transfer case, so everything was just as it was from the factory. I did a slip yoke eliminator and machined an NP205 1410 series yoke to fit and had a full 1410 rear shaft made.

Crossover steering came from WFO Concepts. Great prices, fast shipping, and amazing customer support. It's still spendy though. I got the front brake lines from them too.



Anyway, I had a very detailed parts list (with part numbers too!) on my last computer. Every part, piece, and miscellaneous expense was tracked. Anything from lug studs to the pigtail for the VSS. Last I saw on that, I was around 8000 bucks and I wasnt done. I've got about 10,000 in it, but I did it my way and built it how I wanted it the first time. You could do it a little cheaper, but it'll still be upwards of 6000 bucks. I already had tires and rims and some of the other parts, so that cut back on my costs as well as the stock parts that I sold. Again, keep in mind that this was a leaf spring setup. A buddy of mine did an 03 2500HD and the coil spring kit he got was about 2500-3000 if I remember right. My time was free and so was any machining work that I did. It really adds up fast.
 
It's still fresh in my mind since I just did it all a few months ago. I started buying parts at the first of January, started tearing apart at the end of February, and had it rolling around the first of May. No hurry really, just whenever I felt like working on it. Had to try and wait out a few deals while I was at it and collect some more parts money :D


I'd REALLY hate to know what I've spent on my CUCV. The least amount has been on appearance. I think I dropped 50 bucks on Krylon spray bombs to freshen up the camo pattern.
 
Craigslist in Northwestern PA. Had it trucked to work on our account for cheap!
 
well i been looking into putting my chevy on 40s or bigger. but wanna get rid of that ifs stuff thats in the front. but wanna make it one ton. any ideas for me? i know i needa change the transfer case. but dont know what one to go with
as far as cheap goes, use a dana 60 full float rear out of a 99 e350 van. they come with 4:10 gears, disc brakes, and the e-brake cable hooks right up on a chevy. for a cheap front axle use a 73-87 chevy dana 60, then toss in a transfer case out of a 90-91 suburban or k5 blazer.
 
There's not room to run a passenger side drop in the 99 & up new body style trucks without a body lift. The drivetrain is VERY close to the bottom of the floor plan and opening goes to the left, the right side drops down. Plus, the shifter is on the wrong side and you'd have to fab something up for that. Not a huge deal, but the driver's drop 241 sits in there just like stock and used my stock floor shifter.

I'm not saying you can't do it, but for the hassle and time, you'd be ahead to just keep it driver's drop. I'd venture to guess you have to weld new perches on the Ford 60, that's the biggest reason I opted for a GM rear. They're all the same spring width.
 
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Croatan_kid its a 99 Silverado. i keep yall up to date about it. im going to start it maybe next week or so. got a guy with a ford d60 wants 350 with stock gears.
 
Is it a 78 or 79 axle?
 
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