What link joints to use?

off_road2

off_road2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2006
Location
Hickory
What does type of joints is anyone running on a three or four link system? Johnny Joints, Chromo Heims, etc. I'm looking to buy joints in the near future and wasn't sure which direction to go. I know heims are generally much cheaper but will they hold up? Thanks
 
Johnny Joints will last longer than Chromo Heims
i would used JJ if you drive it on the road you will have more road noise with Chromo Heims
also JJ are rebuildable
 
if i go the JJ-type route, how do yall feel about the studless ballistic joints that you weld the link bar directly to the joints outer case?
 
and the is going on a buggy 4-link so there will be absolutely no road driving
 
I'm running the studless ballistic 3" joints on the axle end of my rear links and their regular 3" joints at the frame end. Seem to be holding up fine. I haven't had to readjust or tighten them yet. I built the 4 link this past winter and I have 4 ure runs and several runs on some private property nearby. I'm going to harlan at the end of the month so I'll know more after that trip
 
Heims squeak bad, but imo thats the way to go with a buggy thats gonna get beat pretty hard. I feel like your joints are one place you don't want to skimp. If you cant handle the squeaking then Johnny joints are the way to go. They have a good amount of misalignment and the races in them seem to hold up longer than creeper joints or ballistics. If you have to use weld on joints I would only do one end of the link. It's always nice to have adjustability plus if you ever bend a link it's nice to just pull the joints out and replace the tubing.
 
Currie joints are pretty good, they've been around a long time. Rod ends are decent but lack stud length that the cartridge style joints have and they tend to make noise if you don't keep them clean and a light coating of WD. Also once you put high misalignment spacers in a 1" bore rod end you're almost to the price of joints if not more. Ballistic went to solid races just like the 3.0 joints have always been and they hold up really well now compared to the old injection molded races that were plagued with problems. We run Ballistic joints on everything now until we start producing our own to solve some common problems. If you're interested in Ballistic joints give me a ring, I have roughly 100 of them on the shelf at the shop and you wont have to deal with Ballistic. :bounce2:
 
If it's on the front I'd use a JJ. I run the Trail gear Creeper joint on my 3 link front and they're pretty awesome as far as longevity and strength. They're between $30 and $40 average. The size I always use is the 1 1/4" RH thread x 9/16"x 2.63"wide which are $37. I pulled them down for inspection a few days ago and they look brand new after at least 20 rides on 'em.
 
i blew a TG joint out in one day of riding. could have been a fluke...the other 7 are still kicking (i replaced it with a Currie joint). I run Currie joints on the other 8 ends as well. I will replace the TG ones with Curries as they blow out (i had the TG ones lying around from my toyota and needed new lower links quick on the buggy.)

The TG joints are also noticeably larger in the body than the Curries. If your link mounts are beat up you may have some clearance issues.
 
That is one proven downside to the TG creepers... they don't hold up to a lot of misalignment because of their size. Mine are pretty much dead on as far as alignment which is probably the reason mine have held up. Only time will tell.
 
if you trail ride and don't race and have a stock or small motor, JJ are OK. If you really beat on your rig or race, look at some quality heim joints.

Over time the JJ will stress and become oblong and fail if used hard.

I have the Ballistic and the JJ on my buggy. If I were to choose between the two, I'd go with the JJ. The Ballistic ones are just too much of a PITA with the threads, etc.

When I rebuild the buggy, I'm using 1 1/4" heim joints to take the beating
 
Good advice Rob. Johnny joints have their place, but cost me big time at KOH this year. They would egg out and blow the joint apart. I run Ruffstuff heims and have had very good success with them. I bent a few 1 1/4" shanks, but that was the old version before they were heat treated and cryoed.
 
rockcity said:
if you trail ride and don't race and have a stock or small motor, JJ are OK. If you really beat on your rig or race, look at some quality heim joints.
Over time the JJ will stress and become oblong and fail if used hard.
I have the Ballistic and the JJ on my buggy. If I were to choose between the two, I'd go with the JJ. The Ballistic ones are just too much of a PITA with the threads, etc.
When I rebuild the buggy, I'm using 1 1/4" heim joints to take the beating
Click to expand...
I agree. Heims are the way to go on something you'll beat pretty hard. Ballistic joints even with solid races are failing all the time. Cartridge joints are just not adequate for hard use.
 
tw89yj said:
Good advice Rob. Johnny joints have their place, but cost me big time at KOH this year. They would egg out and blow the joint apart. I run Ruffstuff heims and have had very good success with them. I bent a few 1 1/4" shanks, but that was the old version before they were heat treated and cryoed.
Click to expand...


How much thread did you have showing on the ones that bent? Pretty gnarly to bend a 1.25" chromo shank with a d60
 
Thats where heims shine. Even if you land on the link and bend the shank they stay tight. You land on a link with cartridge joints the side load will crush/deform the race and it's gotta be rebuilt. If you keep running on it you'll oval the head.
 
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