What the heck did I do?

rattlecanpaint

rattlecanpaint

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Location
Winston Salem
So the dd ('97 4runner 3.4) started making a bit of a knocking noise here lately, so tonight I figured I take a look at it. Sounds like it's coming from the front of the engine. My first thought is the belt tensoiner for the a/c, second thought is the crank pulley is loose. (It wobbles a tiny bit) so I figured I kill 2 birds with one stone and take the belts off and see if the crank pulley is loose and if it still makes the noise with no belts on it. I also checked the timing belt by pulling the upper timing cover loose and sliding it foreward to see the timing belt. (t belt looks OK) I put the timing cover back on and cranked it but now it wont start, just turns over. I didn't unplug anything bu am kind of wondering if maybe I killed the cam sensor by bumping it with the timing cover. Will the 3.4 start without a cam signal? I know a BMW will, but not sure about the toy. I have no diagnostic tools (all at work) here at all and only basic had tools. Anyone have any ideas?
 
thats not the toy with the belt dizzy drive is it?
other than tha, I got no clue on a toy...
 
No distributer on this one. You're thinking of the 3.0. Any one else? The only electrical thing I touched was the cam sensor.
 
Update: Got all the belts completely off (Before I just kinda had them hanging there) an the harmonic balancer spins on the crankshaft a tiny bit. But of course, I brought the wrong size sockets home to take the thing off.:kaioken: I sure hope it's the balancer damaged and not the crank. We'll see tomarrow when I bring home the rest of my tool box.
 
toolbox- its a yota- 10,12,14,17,19 done. do you have spark, do you have fuel, maybe it was not you, things have to break sometime. it will start w/ bad cam sensor but will take longer as the computer takes the crank signal and puts it into a set value after seeing no cam signal, just like the BMW's
 
And 20 (for the crank bolt) What I'm trying to take off. Is it a reverse thread? Can I use the starter trick?
 
Crank bolt is standard RH to tighten thread. Real MF to get off due to the design of the bolt. Looks like you will have to remove all your timing belt components, check them, and do a careful reinstall. If wires are still attached to sensor and its properly mounted, you should be good when all the parts are reinstalled.

P.S. I use my four foot floor jack handle on top of my 1/2" drive breaker bar, with 6 point socket, to be successful in removing the crank bolt. Your experience may vary depending on your tool box and style.

My $0.02
 
What do you use to keep the engine from turning over?
 
The crank bolt is a 19........... I have never seen a 20 on a toy that I can remember.

i have a gaint chain wrench for holding crank with a belt affixed to the chain to protect the pulley, but the starter method works.
 
Well, I got the crank bolt out and now I've discovered the threads in balancer for a the balancer remover are stripped. This f'in thing just keeps getting better and better! So it's time to call AAA to come get it a take it to the shop where I've got the equipment to fix it without guessing what I need. I seems like the key is sheared. Lets just hope the crank isn't damaged. Also it looks like the remnants of a plastic shim or something came out with the bolt. Is there supposed to be something like that in there?
 
Yay (sort of) It was nothing I did. The noise I heard was the timing belt tensioner pulley wobbling. The nut that holds the pulley on fell off and when I tried to start it the timing belt skipped 5 or so teeth. So, I'm getting every thing together to do a t-belt. (seals, belt, tensioner pulley, water pump, the whole deal. Friday evening and saturday are the days.
 
I will have to be doing mine soon too. When I bought the 96 it had 70K on it. Now it`s at 150K. Where are you getting your parts at?
 
I got my timing belt and water pump from O'reilys, and crank and cam seals from Toyota. Also don't forget to get a t-stat, o ring and t-stat gasket too. I had to make a t-stat gasket out of permatex cause noone had them in stock. Oh and you'll need a press to push the tensioner back in. It's got something like 2000 lbs of force on it. (According to all data). You shouldn't need a tensioner unless it's leaking oil. There is one tensioner bolt that is kind of tricky to get out without taking off the AC compressor, but it can be done. It's also a lot easier with a lift.
 
td4runner said:
That crank bolt is torqued on at 187 ft pounds from the factory.
Click to expand...
Otherwise known as MF tight! which is way beyond German Torque Spec of Guttentight.
 
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