What to do

madJeepJ10

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Aug 5, 2009
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Marion
I have a dana 44 front with 513 gears and a miny spool I keep brakeing u joints and I buy moog. I can ether buy a dana 60 for 500 but I'm only running 36 tires. Or I can buy croms for 1000. Now that's a lot of money just for shafts and u joints. So my question is what would y'all do with limited cash should I go 60 with moog u joints. Thanks for all the help
 
I would keep my foot from being so deep in the skinny pedal..
 
Jonathan,
Like we were talking about at The Shop the other week when you were broken, there are a few ways to accomplish what you want.
First the Dana 60 may be $500, but you'll still need wheels, gears, better outers and hubs/flanges, driveshaft work, etc. So that $500 will actually snowball into probably closer to $1500 or so. Then you'll probably want a matching 8 lug rear and that's $$$ as well. Like you said, those 36's with 1 tons will really hurt your clearance too.
The other option is good Dana 44 shafts and good joints that won't break. Go with the USA made chromos from ECGS and superjoints. I know you were saying you can run Spicers and get a warranty once from them, but you'll still be having the same issue- breaking joints. Only way to solve that particular problem is to address the specific part failure.
My suggestion is to buy a set of good shafts (inners and outers) and Yukon Superjoints. Make sure your steering stops are set so the joints aren't binding at full lock and keep a spare lockout hub or two with ya.
 
Adjust steering stops to keep from putting the u joints in a bind.
Maybe aftermarket joint like CTM that has no roller needles. But really is off-road only.

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Edit: we must have typing at the same time!
 
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I know what you said and your right Jody. I was upset then and was listening half way sorry to keep asking just trying to get it right this time
 
remember you lose strength exponentially off of center. so when you're turning no matter what size you go with, you lose strength, it may be your style of driving.
 
That's the point I'm trying to make. I don't get to beat on it because the u joint brakes before I even get into it.
 
Good shafts and learn to work your rig threw the rocks instead of slamming into them. Are you breaking when turning and bound up

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I've saw you snap a joint once on rocky slop. To me, it seems like maybe the steering is binding. I'm guessing steering stops and and lock to lock on your hydro assist. But I've been drinking and it's Friday night. I would keep the 44s, a 60 seems like an expensive can of worms.

Edit: whatever Jody said, I would listen to that.
 
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I would spend the money on spicers, lifetime joints if you can find them. If you are snapping joints vs shafts you need to look at your steering stops.

As said I would go chromo shafts. No joint is going to like being bound up, so that needs to be addressed. I wouldn't spend the money on chromo shafts without chromo joints. Yes, they still get 1 warranty but you're still broke.

If you know you're not going to spend the money on chromo joints, I would replace the stock shafts one at a time with yukon or other cheap ones. Still need to address the steering though.
 
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