What would you consider an "adequate" trailer?

maddog411

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Harrisburg, NC
What factors would you look for to make sure your trailer is adequate? I need at least something big enough to haul my '96 K1500 RCSB Chevy, which I think weighs around 5300lbs.
I had a 14' car trailer a couple years ago that I hauled it on like twice for about 20 miles total. The trailer had dual mobile home axles with brakes on one axle (never tested them), and the truck would only fit between the fenders with stock size tires on it. The trailer bowed noticably from front-back with the truck on it. Just thinking I need something a little better than that but not exactly sure to look for.

:beer:
 
This is the one I own: http://www.kaufmantrailers.com/cata...f450be65a45afb48608887192f1b1ab60ab9cb00bfeba

Model229.jpg


I bought the removable fenders option because my truck is to wide to fit between the fenders too.

It is probably the bare minimum for towing what you have and you should option it up for brakes on both axles.

You might want to step up to this one: http://www.kaufmantrailers.com/cata...de50a2193c64f5e021620dae598eaec42f0d16f80b298

It is 18ft and has 4,000 lb axles and comes standard with brakes on both axles.
 
I'd pick a gross trailer weight rating that is 500 lb+ or so greater than what you need. I personnally don't care to tow at the limit of the trailer's capacity. Your trailer will last longer, you'll have more than adequate braking (can never have too much), and you'll be less likely to overload and blow out tires.

Mine is quite a bit bigger than what my current trail rig would require. I sized it based on the largest truck I might ever own and trailer somewhere. Right now I have to back off on the brake controller to keep from locking up the trailer tires.
 
NC_Mog said:
I'd pick a gross trailer weight rating that is 500 lb+ or so greater than what you need. I personnally don't care to tow at the limit of the trailer's capacity. Your trailer will last longer, you'll have more than adequate braking (can never have too much), and you'll be less likely to overload and blow out tires.
Mine is quite a bit bigger than what my current trail rig would require. I sized it based on the largest truck I might ever own and trailer somewhere. Right now I have to back off on the brake controller to keep from locking up the trailer tires.
Click to expand...
To add to that 500lb is good but I like 1000 lbs. It has let me carry other people junk back and tow there rigs that are larger and broke when needed. Also remember to add the weight of the trailer in.
So if I was you,
5300 lb for your truck, say 1800 lbs for a trailer, 1000 lb extra BS.
That would put you needing a trailer at 8100 lbs gross. You could maybe do a 7500 lb trailer but it would be close to maxed, if you carry gear, maxed. Remember you loose 10% for tw so that can come off those numbers. But remember if you get a trailer that is rated at 7500 lbs or 10,000 lbs , those are gross and not load. If you put 7500 lbs on a trailer rated for 7500 lbs gross you will have problems with tires and axles and if they don't give out the frame and brakes will not last long.


They make trailers with 3500lb, 4000lb and 5200lb axles
most common are the 7500 gross and 10,000. some 7500 gross trailers are about the same weight as a 10,000 trailer so I would go with a 10,000 trailer.
 
MR. GADGET said:
I would go with a 10,000 trailer.
Click to expand...

That's what I happened to luck into several years ago. While it seems to be 400#-500# heavier than most haulers (mine weighed in at 2200#), it's good to know it'd haul most rigs... if they'd fit between the fenders!

Also, be careful to stay under the 10K# gross cap... at 10001# gross you'll need a Class A (IIRC). When I contacted Hudson Brothers about mine, the axles had been upgraded, so they were willing to re-tag it for more than 10K... I quickly declined as 10K is MORE than enough to haul my 4000# heep
 
I have 6k axles on my trailer. (I had the trailer rated to 9990# ) I like them for a few reasons. I can pretty much load any normal car/truck on my trailer with out worry. The cost was only $400 more when buying a new trailer and this also included the 16" radial trailer tires AND the bigger brakes. You can get the bigger brakes on some 5500# axles..

I'm sure its a lot to consider and deciding where to draw the line with upgrades is tough, but i'd forgo some other DIY options for the larger axles and weld on your own pockets or D-Rings to save a few $..
 
I agree with more is better, so 1000 lb is a better cushion.

Don't be afraid of the 10,000+ rated trailers. The extra license is a pain but its not that big a deal. My towed gross weight is around 9,000lb but the trailer is rated for 14k gross. The 2.5 ton excess capacity is a bit more than most need, but it will stop on a dime. :driver:
 
I agree with the other guys, 10k rating minimum is the way to go with a full sized rig. On another note, I strongly prefer a deck over. Pretty much any trailer with a deck dropped to between the wheel wells is going to give you trouble width wise when you go to load your rig, and a deck over solves that problem. A lot of guys use drive over fenders. That is an okay solution too, but I had a pretty good scare using those up at Tellico last year. I had busted a front axle shaft, so I was loading the rig up onto a borrowed trailer with drive over fenders. I drove over them just fine, but I wanted to move over a few inches, so I went to back over the fenders to reposition. It was raining, and as soon as the front wheel started to climb the fenders in 2WD the rear tires broke traction and slid out sideways. When I got it stopped I had about 2" of swamper on the trailer and 10" of it hanging off over the side. Ultimately it probably wouldn't have been a big deal even if it had fallen off the trailer, but it certainly would have been a hassle. Go deck over.
 
:poop:I concur.Lockers only make it worse.
 
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