What would you do?

Jody Treadway

Jody Treadway

Croc wearing fool
Moderator
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Hendersonville, NC
Here's the scoop. My 2015 Ram 2500 had 71,XXX miles and just today the dreaded P003a code popped up and reappeared after clearing.Turbo actuator/turbo vanes not moving as requested.
Either the actuator (not covered by power train warranty and $2900 in parts plus a trip there to be programmed) or the turbo (unlikely and covered by power train).
I plan to drop it off for a diagnosis and for a multitude of recalls to be performed. IF the actuator is failed, I see no reason to install another failure prone OEM unit
I want to keep the exhaust brake and I'll lose it if I run a non VGT turbo. I don't care for more power or the NEED to tune it. I do plan to delete the truck at 80k for longevity sake as this will be my truck for many, many years. I'm not afraid to spend good $$$ for a long lasting appropriate upgrade.
Any suggestions assuming I'm on the hook for an absurdly expensive fix?
 
Did you try turning it off and back on again? PS my name is Kerpal and I work in IT.
 
I'd definitely keep it VGT one way or another. I'd probably tune it too, just because stock is never good enough :D


Wtf costs 2900 bucks?!
 
I would hit it with my purse.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
I'd definitely keep it VGT one way or another. I'd probably tune it too, just because stock is never good enough :D


Wtf costs 2900 bucks?!
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The VGT actuator is $2900 list, around $2200 retail. Plus it has to to be calibrated with a dealer level scan tool once replaced.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Did you try turning it off and back on again? PS my name is Kerpal and I work in IT.
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In a sense, yes. Clear codes and it builds 29-30 psi and EB works. Drive it 5 minutes and boost is limited to 4-5 psi and no EB.
If it were a mechanical issue, I would think it wouldn't be intermittent.
 
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-You can buy new actuators for $600 just Google search it.
-If you want to get a good "stock" turbo check out Tater Built on facebook.
-When I needed a new actuator for my turbo on my 07 I just found a whole good used turbo off Facebook marketplace for $300 and didn't have to worry about the dealer calibrating it
 
If I'm not mistaken, I did read that some of the SnapOn scanners can recalibrate them.

But also, what he said.


Then again, an S467.6 FMW with a 1.0 AR and 83mm turbine would be pretty sexy. I'm just thinking that going from a VGT back to fixed vane would probably bring the suck when towing after being used to a VGT.
 
Would recommend a good used unit. Also when I left the 24v world and went to the 6.7 w/ VGT I was told to run the EB regularly to exercise it and avoid buildup even when not towing. There are some slightly cheaper alternatives out there for a replacement VGT turbo with a wee bit bigger compressor as well.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
I'm just thinking that going from a VGT back to fixed vane would probably bring the suck when towing after being used to a VGT.
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It deffinatly would which is why I found a good used one until I can save up for a Tater.

He uses the factory housing machines it out and fits bigger wheels and it will bolt up and EB function as stock.
 
@edward had the exact same issue, same code and everything. He took the turbo off and cleaned it really good and it was good to go. From that point on he ran the exhaust brake all the time and would really put a stamp on it often to clear it out. Never had any issues since then.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Maybe his purse can touch the pedals. I know his feet can't.
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Got an appt at the dealer tomorrow. Hopefully they'll condemn the turbo.
If not, I'll step back and punt.
May have to put tags on the Ranger for the next trip!
 
For the record as long as you drain the coolant first so as not to ruin the actuator, take the thing apart and clean it. You don't even really need to calibrate it either if you take it off correctly but I've got the Dodge autoenginuity that will recalibrate the vgt if you need.

All that being said I went through this same process on my srw truck only for the actuator to die 2000 miles later.

Now it has a bd diesel iron horn Borg non wastegated turbo and manifold kit as well as their flapper exhaust brake that's actuated by the factory computer. I like it but the factory turbo was at least as good and the factory exhaust brake was way better. When the dually turbo dies it's gonna get a reman vgt.
 
They told me yesterday the actuator was bad due to a sticking turbo. Then they said I needed an actuator.
I said, No, I need a turbo by your own admission.
So the tech drove it home so he could use the EB to free up the turbo and will reevaluate this am.
I think I'll be able to talk them into replacing the turbo based on our conversation yesterday
 
Seems like the same song and dance with a bunch of failed 6.7 actuators. When you get it back 100%, just run the exhaust brake all the time and give it a good trip to the floor every now and then. That was at least what I was told when I was in the research phase on my truck. I'm actually surprised you had an issue with it being that you have a DD and mainly use the Ram for towing and actual work. Its the around town shit that seems to kill stuff on the new trucks of any brand.
 
StretchASU said:
Seems like the same song and dance with a bunch of failed 6.7 actuators. When you get it back 100%, just run the exhaust brake all the time and give it a good trip to the floor every now and then. That was at least what I was told when I was in the research phase on my truck. I'm actually surprised you had an issue with it being that you have a DD and mainly use the Ram for towing and actual work. Its the around town shit that seems to kill stuff on the new trucks of any brand.
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I know what you mean. The only time my truck gets driven is when it is hooked to our camper or my gooneneck trailer. I stay on top of service and maintaining it based on time, not miles.
I haven't heard back from them yet, but we'll see.

If they don't condemn the turbo, it'll get a weight reduction diet while I have that side of the engine stripped down. At 71,xxx miles, I'm getting close to the 5 yr/80k mark anyway.
 
It upsets me what a well known problem it is for these things to fail at 80k. That's why I didn't go back with one on my truck. When mine failed there was no check engine light just looked over and saw egts were 1400*. So luckily didn't melt the whole truck down but did leave me stranded in shitty ass Burlington.
 
Going forward keep the exhaust brake on all the time, and drive it like you stole it from time to time. Shouldn’t have that issue again.
 
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