Whats your opinion?

336wheeler

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2006
Location
Boone
Full spool or lockright for front 60? Locking hubs, 35 spline inners.
 
Seems like I have a general concensus for the lockright. I wish I could find a spool for my 70-U but I've only seem a few one-off's through pirate, and a few that claimed to be D70 spools, but were for a D60. Lockrights on both ends is what I'm looking at. Rockmafia, I like the new icon... looks angry.
 
I've been running a spool in my front dana 44 for about 3 years now. It was a mistake to put it in there. It does work, but not good and as soon as I can round up some extra cash, it's being replaced with a lockright.
 
I played with the idea of welding the 70, and I do trust my welds, but I still want to go with the Lock Right. It won't see much road action, but some.
 
I drive my rig almost daily, welded rear. Welded rear is cheap, and very predictable. What advantages will the lockrite give you over welded? All I see is the pins being a weak link. I would pocket the $ and throw the welder at it, just my .02
 
SPOA87YJ said:
I drive my rig almost daily, welded rear. Welded rear is cheap, and very predictable. What advantages will the lockrite give you over welded? All I see is the pins being a weak link. I would pocket the $ and throw the welder at it, just my .02
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X2...Even though I took my rig off the road for a while. When I did drive it the welded rear wasnt that bad of a choice. Pocket $$$ and put that money toward the front lockright.
 
I have a Detroit, but have seen many 60's with lock-rite fronts and they have held up fine. I personally would not weld up a front. I have seen too many that didn't steer worth a hoot. Welding the rear is a lot cheaper, and I am sure you could find a good use for the bucks you save. Many have done it, and like it. If it's a good weld job, you won't have to worry about a locker breaking.
 
Spool in the front is a mistake. I have a detroit in mine, and would go through a steering box per weekend with stockish stuff. Then I upgraded to hydro assist and a better box, and its 11d times better. There are still times where I wish I could unlock the front though.
 
Amcjeepman, unless you know something I don't know, nobody makes a spool for a 70.
 
I know it's been covered, but while we're at opinions... weld up where the spiders come together, or put a plate in there and weld it all up into a ball?
 
the crosspin in the 60 lockright is the weak link, will break before carrier or outers will. have a freind up here in cincy has one in his 60 front. he told me the strength of the cross pin was 80% of stock outers, so you do the math.it would take massive shock load to break anything in a 60, but if you try hard you can,and id rather twist an outer. we run 39s under 3700lbs. he is happy with it, has never broke(yet), but id keep a spare pin before i hit the hard trails if it was me.i always vote for detroit, even if it is more $$.
 
If the rear is welded, can you still replace shafts? Or do you have to make it one big weld ball inside the carrier?
 
devlsh1 said:
If the rear is welded, can you still replace shafts? Or do you have to make it one big weld ball inside the carrier?
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just like said about, weld 8 corners (clean it well... warm with a torch patiently and weld her up)... and YES you can still replace the shafts unless you some how let your welds run into the splines of the carrier and somehow weld the shaft to the case/carrier
 
Have alot of friends with spooled and welded fronts. Everytime something hard comes up they get out and twist the hubs. Save the money and get a detroit or if you can come up with enough cash a selectable locker $$$$$$$$$$$$$
 
bigjeeprob said:
the crosspin in the 60 lockright is the weak link, will break before carrier or outers will. have a freind up here in cincy has one in his 60 front..
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There's a certain someone around here who will vouch for the durability of a 60F lockright, and he's um, a *little* hard on parts.

LR the front, no doubt about it.
 
I'm using a OX in my 60. After all is said and done a little over 800. I have a Rubicon and have gotten lazy with the magic button and now I can't go back. I've heard the lock rights have noise, sometimes don't unlock, and sometimes takes a hard hit on the gas to lock. But breaking dosn't seem to be a issue, no more problem than any other locker. Build the crap out of it once and be done with it. Make the hubs your weak point.
 
Just for the record I second the front Lockrite welded rear combo. I have run that combo several times with good results. For low cost and dependability that's what I'd recommend.
 
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