wheel hop

madJeepJ10

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2009
Location
Marion
ok i just got to test drive the rig i have been puting to gether. when i give it gas on a steep climb it hops in the back. i have chevey leafs with double shakel. its on a jeep comanchee with dana 44 axles there is no bed and only a gas tank in the back. i was thinking of puting a plat i have here that is like 200 lbs but i dont know if that will solve the problum thanks for all the help.
 
Wheel hop is the result of having enough power to break the tires free but not enough to keep them spinning. In your case the suspension is loading up and unloading cyclically. Building a traction bar will fix the issue by not allowing the axle housing to rotate and twist/deform the springs.
 
Some guys on here told me it's due to improper tire balancing. My two rear tires bounce bad above 45mph but since when have you heard of a 22RE breaking traction with tons and 44s :D, next set of tires I'm going to have professionally pad balanced.
 
I don't think he's talking about driving on the road...

Listen to DR,

Your rear axle is rotating and then hopping up, unloading and repeating. No weight is only magnifying the issue. A simple well built axle anti-wrap bar will get you squared away. Very much needed if you plan to wheel hard and especially after you add weight to the rear. After you add weight, the problem will still be there. You won't feel it as much, because your springs will warp in the S shape and take most of it until they are ruined.

Buy this before midnight for 20% off, add it before you add any plate or bed, much easier to install.
Antiwrap/Traction Bar Complete Kit
 
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The reason its doing it on climbs is because of the difference in weight distribution. You've got a horizontal and a vertical component of the weight when the truck is at an angle, instead of just vertical when the truck is level obviously. This means you have a different amount of weight on the axle, but that also means that if you add extra weight then not all of that additional weight is going to act vertically on the axle, and also might not help or might make the wheelhop worse.

Adding weight will change the frequency of the wheelhop, but it's not changing the reason that it's happening. That's the problem you need to solve properly with traction bars, etc.

You never want to add extra weight if you can help it, because then you're just adding extra stress to every part of the vehicle...
 
OnlyOneDR said:
Wheel hop is the result of having enough power to break the tires free but not enough to keep them spinning.
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That's not true, but it might seem that way. Being low powered sometimes just keeps you in the range of excitation longer, instead of going into that frequency range and then out of it quicker if you have more power. The wheel hop is there either way, and the cause of it still needs to be fixed.
 
awww.landroversonly.com_forums_attachments_f16_32370d135040316076273f901c63780a88dc29196c68bb1.jpg

I used one of these. Attached it to the rear axle, extended it with some DOM, and built a small shackle for it to stop my wheel hop. Pics are on a dead phone. I'll post them up later
 
Fabrik8 said:
That's not true, but it might seem that way. Being low powered sometimes just keeps you in the range of excitation longer, instead of going into that frequency range and then out of it quicker if you have more power. The wheel hop is there either way, and the cause of it still needs to be fixed.
Click to expand...

What you are talking about is a resonant frequency; that the resonant frequency is always there unless the system is constrained in some way to shift it. Wheel hop is a phenomenon resultant of a resonant frequency but not infinitely repeatable in of itself. In the off road world where all the variables (weight, friction, power, etc) are in a constant jumble you cannot simply repeat the system exactly and always induce wheel hop. When you have enough power you simply blow right through the resonant frequency and keep going (which is what you said but using different words).
 
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R Q said:
View attachment 205136

No double shackles for me...:confused:
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You wouldn't happen to have another of those links would you? I'm needing a traction bar, but not wanting to spend $200+ on a diy'er. How important is the placement of the shackle? Seems to me that it should be very close to being in line with the driveshaft u-joint.
 
strange1 said:
You wouldn't happen to have another of those links would you? I'm needing a traction bar, but not wanting to spend $200+ on a diy'er. How important is the placement of the shackle? Seems to me that it should be very close to being in line with the driveshaft u-joint.
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Ideally you want it as far forward as you can place it
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Ideally you want it as far forward as you can place it
Click to expand...

Right, and either your driveshaft (slip member) or yoke (slip yoke) would account for any change in driveline length, as usual. It doesn't have to mimic the line that the driveshaft takes. If the traction bar is too short it will cause jacking issues. There's another recent thread on here discussing that very problem.
 
Well I took off the 2 ond shackle and it doesn't do it anymore now all I need is a little Wight on the b
 
strange1 said:
You wouldn't happen to have another of those links would you? I'm needing a traction bar, but not wanting to spend $200+ on a diy'er. How important is the placement of the shackle? Seems to me that it should be very close to being in line with the driveshaft u-joint.
Click to expand...
I do not but a quick Google search will net you a company in Fla that sells them. You may find one in a junk yard if it has Rovers. I paid $100 for it and got the rest of the parts from Ruffstuff and a Johnny Joint from Moser. Just search for Land Rover radius arm. I just made it longer than the springs as far up towards the transfer case as I could and put it there.
 
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