When to get chromos in a D30?

If anything, chromo's simply gave me more confidence to hit an obstacle harder. I don't want spares flopping around in the back of the jeep when I'm on the trail.

Chase at ECGS has ten factories with his warranty for half the price of rcvs.
 
Have been running an old school D30 (NT) with 4.27s, lunchbox locker (Detroit EZ?), and alloys (purchased from Andy @ CRS) for about 6-7 years... have broken nothing and have rebuilt originals for spares
 
Caver Dave said:
Have been running an old school D30 (NT) with 4.27s, lunchbox locker (Detroit EZ?), and alloys (purchased from Andy @ CRS) for about 6-7 years... have broken nothing and have rebuilt originals for spares
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You have wheel something besides jack stands to break something........
 
I ran 33's and 35's on my TJ with stock shafts with no locker for years. I did have an AT which IMHO gives you a softer bump than a standard. Also notice a theme here..... alot of "doing something stupid" caused the failures. Not saying it cant "just happen", but smart wheeling = less breakage.

Also as with stated above, if your doing something that makes you fear breaking axle parts, its time to upgrade axles.


... but this is just an opinion
 
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Caver Dave said:
Have been running an old school D30 (NT) with 4.27s, lunchbox locker (Detroit EZ?), and alloys (purchased from Andy @ CRS) for about 6-7 years... have broken nothing and have rebuilt originals for spares
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If you bought them from CRS its been a bit more than 6 years ;)

Time flies and we are all getting old.
 
Ran 33s on 30 for a while, locked with 4:56. Beat the snot out of it. Also ran 36s and broke 3 axles, once backing up and into a tree with the wheel turn full lock (couldn't see) once at devils playground, once on first ledge on Daniel with the rev limiter singing in 2nd gear. All three incidents were on 36s and beating it very hard.
Its so easy to change a shaft in a 30, I just always kept spare sets and rolled on. Now I have a 44 in the front and can beat on it pretty good with the 36s. Funny thing is the ears and u joint in the shafts of my Ford Dana 44 are the exact same size as the Dana 30.
 
jimbo92 said:
They usually fail because the c clip falls off allowing the u joint to spit the cap.
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This is the most common thing that happens to a ujoint shaft, the c clips/ half moons pop out and allow the ujoint to spit a cap causing the ujoint to explode and eat the shaft up, full circle clips/snap rings eliminate this even on stock shafts, it is also common to tack weld the caps on the ears.
 
Clay, I ran stock shafts with 32's and a locker in the green Cherokee for three years and never broke a shaft. I would recommend just carrying spare shafts with the unit bearings for peace of mind. They are not hard to change out and a lot cheaper than chromos. On top of all that, your wheeling style seems to be more crawling instead of a lot of skinny pedal so I don't think you have a lot to worry about.
 
I had a locker and stock shafts with 33's for a while. Then I got 35's and wheeled it a couple more times with no problems. But I did switch to a trutrac a few months ago because I knew I was playing with fire. And the stock shafts still live under there with no problems for 3 years now. Ujoints are still tight and with the l/s I'm not worried about them anymore. Just buying time to upgrade my axle. You shouldn't have any problems if you keep it from bouncing or binding up. So I vote keep an extra shaft handy jic.
 
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