Which 3 link kit?

Between which kits? Do you have fabrication skills? Can you weld?

Probably the easiest was in my mind would be to pick up an xj front axle. A three link kit from Barnes and find some that makes upper coil spring buckets

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Yeah I could build everything at home, but it seems you can buy a kit with all the brackets for not much more than it cost just for joints. And I'm going to be putting a 60 under it while running 2.5 12" swayaway coil overs.
 
Motobuilt makes a nice kit
 
Build your own. Frame side upper mount can go through the frame between framerail and starter on passenger side. I can send/post pics if you would like. I ordered aluminum and had it drilled and tapped for links. Are you running coilovers or coils and shocks? Mine is a combination of Barnes4wd, Ballistic, and other brackets.
 
^I somewhat disagree with this statement^ The more you can do, the more you will save. A lot of folks on here are DIY folks. That being said, this aint a cheap sport by any means
 
Yeah I've been at it for about 15 years myself. Started out with a cherokee, then switched to a wrangled about 2 years ago. Its so bad I bought a second yj to build where I'd still have 1 to go wheeling with while I was building it. This is the first link system I'll be building, but I've helped with a few others. Hoping to get it right the first time around. Lol
 
john327 said:
Yeah I've been at it for about 15 years myself. Started out with a cherokee, then switched to a wrangled about 2 years ago. Its so bad I bought a second yj to build where I'd still have 1 to go wheeling with while I was building it. This is the first link system I'll be building, but I've helped with a few others. Hoping to get it right the first time around. Lol
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Get the link calculator and start figuring out where things need to go.

Then compromise your design to fit your setup.

Shoot for 60-80% anti squat, and the roll center as close to COG height as possible. Roll axis angle as flat as possible. Pinion angle change as little as possible.

The big thing is to get the geometry acceptable not only at static ride height but through the full range of travel.

Start with big changes in dimensions then get smaller.

To get travel anti squat to stay close to static AS, your upper will be shorter than the lower. To get pinion angle change minimal this will push for your upper to be same or longer than the lower.

Your roll center height is the midpoint of the Panhard bar. Get this as high as possible.

If you plan to eventually link both front and rear, then do not waste a lot of time getting your rc height as high as possible, put it where it fits, but then plan to run a sway bar.

ANtisquat or antidive, still not sure if you are talking front or rear? Can play a big part on how the rig handles under throttle and hard on the brakes, as well as how well it soaks up bumps.

Make the frame side upper adjustable so that you can fine tune the end setup to your liking and driving style.

Shoot for as flat of links as possible, and 25% of tire diameter for your vertical link separation at the axle.


The big issue with links on a yj, is getting upper links/Panhard high enough without all kinds of interference.

Getting the lower links up so that you don't kill ground clearance under the belly and skid.

And getting enough separation at the axle, without the rig getting tall, or doing substantial floor cutting.


Not sure if anyone's "kit" considers all of these variables and accounts to compromise for them.

If you want to get it right the first time, you will spend 10x the time designing and compromising in the link calculator and a very small amount of time building everything.

Design time pays off dividends in the final product.

There is nothing wrong with using off the shelf brackets and such, just modify so that they meet your design.
 
Agreed except I like a little more than 25% separation for a single upper. I spent twice as long drawing and measuring as I did fitting and welding. Some clearances are 3/4 inch
 
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