Which year toyota had vented rotors?

rattlecanpaint

rattlecanpaint

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Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Location
Winston Salem
I've noticed a slight pull on the brakes on my yota and it gets kinda scary when under hard braking cause some idiot wants to merge at 35 and the moron in front of me decides to slam on the brakes to let him in...:shaking: I've traced it down to a sticking right front caliper and since I'm never gonna wear the pads out, this is the time to upgrade to vented rotors. Question is, what years had them and is the wheel bearing etc. the same? I know I'll need new calipers too but are the lines the same thread and will the master cyl need to be changed? (Gonna get rear disks in the future and know it needs to be changed then, but how about now?)
 
Do you have crossover steering? If not your solid axle yota will do this even if the brakes are in tip top shape. They call it bump steer. My truck can change lanes under hard braking if you don't expect it.


here is the info and parts you need for the brakes: http://www.trail-gear.com/brake.html
 
No cross over steering. Still got the old push pull type. No lift. I'm sure it's a sticking caliper.
 
'81 newer Landcruiser rotors, vented 8 hole hub mount (6 lug, 2 bolt to hold rotor to hub) and '86-95 IFS calipers (V6 calipers will require V6 master, best to use FJ80 NON ABS master )

Rotors are about $40-$60 each depending on source, The calipers are gonna be expensive, The core alone is $100+ if bought thru a parts store, you may be able to core your solid axle calipers. You can obtain all parts thru Marlin, AllPro, yadda yadda.

I know you said you do not have cross oversteering, but are your torque arm (frame to axle) bushings in OK shape ?
Same effect as the axle rolls forward a bit and causes "bump steer".

There are differences in pads for the 4 and 6cyl calipers as well, the pads will not swap
 
So, I do need a new master cyl for just the front upgrade? Also, by torque arm, do you mean the arm that conects the steering box to the J-shaped arm that attahes to the hub? And do I have to get v6 calipers? Won't 4 cyl calipers be OK? (Just so long as they're for the vented rotors.) Basically what I'm thinking is to get rotors, calipers and pads for, say an '86 4 runner. Also, Kevin, you still got that alternator and you still wanna sell it?
 
No, you do not have to get V6 calipers, nor a master cyl unless you get the V6 calipers
speciify you want calipers for 86-87 truck or Runner, those should be 4cyl for sure. take your current in for cores, you DO need the IFS wide body calipers for the vented rotor swap

Torque arm is the link running from top of axle housing to the frame, runs parellel to the drag link. (drag link is from J-arm to steering box)
 
Ah, Ok, I see. I haven't looked at the torque arm but I'm sure I have a sticking caliper. With the brakes applied lightly I can turn the pass side wheel and not the drivers. I'll check the torque arm since while I've got the wheels off,I'm gonna re-seal the front end, so I might as well do it up right and replace the whole thing! Also gonna get an optima and a new alternator. Woo Hoo!
 
dont get confused with v-6 and 4-cyl calipers, there really isnt a v-6 or 4 cyl caliper, its more of a year thing and v-6 trucks/runners got the big calipers first. kind of like v-6 and 4cyl gears, its really just short head pinion and long head pinion. just get the 81 LC (fj60) rotors and some calipers off of an 86-88 truck or 4 runner
 
Alright, I got rotors off an '81 LC and calipers and pads off a '86 4runner. Just need to get the axle seal kit. Does anyone know if Toyota sells it as a kit? Advance listed everything separate and couldn't find some of the stuff like the paper gaskets for the hubs. I see that Marlin sells it as a kit, but I need it tomarrow.
 
You'd be $$ ahead to buy the kit from one of the many Toy parts vendors, Toyota dealers get$25+ for EACH bearing,

Trail Gear or the like get $75 for the complete knuckle service kit, all 4 bearings all gaskets and seals, thats a deal, I paid over $100 for same stuff a few years ago.
 
What about just a seal kit? I can get the bearings from advance.
 
You can get the seal/gasket kit at the dealer as a package, is like $50ish if I remember right, to my knowledge, none of the auto parts places have a specific kit, hell, it was all I could do to get NAPA to understand that the inner axle seal I was looking for WAS NOT the hub to spindle seal.

If you are trying to do this on the cheap, the kits from the Toy vendors are the deal, really. if you are reffering to the WHEEL bearings at Zone, ok, but there are 4 KNUCKLE bearings ( 2 per side) besides those that you will want to replace when you tear the knuckle down.
I've rebuild dozens of the knuckles, and only a few times have I found the knuckle bearings to be anywhere close to reusable due to wear on the races and rollers.

If you want some assistance, I can walk you thru it ( good kid time too ) just let me know a few days ahead of time ( Sat, June 17 isn't available)

I'll even let you borrow my hub socket
 
I'll second the kit that Trail Gear sells. I just helped a friend rebuild his axle in a sas'd 90 4runner. When we priced eveything from just about everywhere, Trail gear stood at the top, and had free shipping to boot. Also, it took only 2 days for our stuf to arrive.
If you are going to take the time to pull the knuckles off/apart to get to the axle seals (leaking gear oil are we?), i would HIGHLY suggest replacing all 8 bearings and races ( 2 hub and 2 knuckle per side)

Also the trail gear kit comes with all of the steel plates/shims to do the rebuild right, It really is the most complete kit. The factory service kits do not. You will have to reuse some parts. Just a FYI

Have fun, and plan on an entire day to get it done.

PS make sure you buy plenty of wheel bearing grease for repacking the birfields/knuckle bearings and wheel bearing.


Edit: the best place in raleigh i found to get my bearings when i did my truck 3 years ago, was Loop Road Auto Parts in Garner. Great customer service there also. actual gear heads work there!
 
Actually, time is more of the thing here. I'm willing to spend a few extra $$ to get this done tomarrow. Also what this I read about a special tool to get the knuckle bearings out? Any tricks to it without a special tool?
 
no special tool for the knuckle, but a 54mm ( i think) *no local parts or tool store has this in stock!* socket helps out greatly with the nuts holding your rotor to the spindle. 17mm socket for all 8 nuts(4 top 4 bottom) , remove steering arm and bottom bearing cap, and you should be able to slide one bearing out, and then pull the whole knuckle off. The haynes manual actually has a halfway decent description of how to disassemble your axle.

oh yeah, cone washers on the steering arm will be a PITA, a few good whacks with a brass mallet should help, and anti-seize when reinstalling.

I get to do all of this again in a few weeks, my yota has had a seal leak for awhile, and it developed a flat tire, and gear oil is now all over the driveway :shaking:

if you don't already have them these should help
 

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I have a set of IFS 4 banger calipers and a pair of the IFS hub if you want to do the widening kit. RockJunkie4X4 has a good price on the knuckle kit as well. Sky sells a nice widening kit and I think its on sale right now too.


Dont forget the fish scale, 11-13 pounds of pull on the knuckle WITHOUT the wipers on for the trunion bearing preload.
 
Well today was a bust cause the three closest toyota dealers had a grand total of three knuckle bearing in stock. As a former tech, It pisses me off when the parts dept has one of the thing I need two of to do even one side! How much more room does it take to have two of these little bearings in stock? Any way, I ordered a kit from Marlin Cralwler for $145 incl. wheel bearings. Got a cool anodized aluminum shift know on the way too! (The old one gets sticky to the touch when it gets hot outside.) Guess I've got a project for the weekend!
 
I finally got the front end resealed and the new front brakes put on. It took me all of yesterday and part of today cause of Mr Murphy! Everything went fine 'till the parts stores closed, then I managed to mess up the thread on 3 of 6 wheel studs while getting them out.

(On a side note why didn't toyota put the studs into the hub and then bolt the rotor to the hub? Seems to me it'd be easier to change rotors without having to remove the studs.) Anyway, I go to Carquest today and first they try to sell me the rear ones. I tell the guy they nee to be longer after the splines. (Cause it's going through the rotor too.) He looks it up in the book, (instead of the computer) and shows me the picture of the one I need. He says it's for a 2wd. Whatever, so I get home and they are too big around to go throught the rotor.

So I grind them down a bit and get them all pounded in there. Get it all put together, brakes bled put the wheels on, (Had to grind some slag off one of the calipers to get the wheel to fit), and find they are a different thread pitch than the original studs!!! How stupid it that? It was the only stud in the book that looked like that so it's not like he gave me the wrong ones. By this time I'm like screw it I'm gonna find three lug nut that fit these lugs and move on. Thanks to Stankoma for (finally) replacing the mismatched lug nuts on his truck! His old ones fit my new wheel studs and they're different enough that I can identify them as being the ones for the odd ball studs. Anyway, now I'm finally ready to get off road! Props to Marlin Crawler for a great seal kit with plenty of extra grease/hub seals for next time! And stickers too! Yay!
 
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