WHy does it take so darn long to build stuff?

buggybuilder

buggybuilder

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Mar 26, 2005
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under a rock
Just a few shots of the little bit of progress Ive made.Nothing much but working to get it ready for the Devil's Playground!!!!!
 

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Tacoma747 said:
"WHy does it take so darn long to build stuff?"

Cause you are makin it look too nice!
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Damn i thought it was all about the bling!
I could throw everything together and go but I think I wont............ :huggy:
 
That thing is looking less and less like a Commanche every day. I guess all that matters is the grille right? :D

Nice tube work to both of ya'.
 
Yep got some more issues taken care of,I will be trail ready before ya know it!
 

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I have a question how does shaving the bottom of the 14 bolt effect the preload on the carrier bearing? The case needs to be spread when installing and seting up the gears but there is now a weak spot.
 
HUh?The case doesnt need to be spread on a FF 14 bolt as it has carrier bearing preload adjusters built into the housing!You might be thinking of something else......... :smokin:
 
Man, everything is looking sa-weet! Worth the time, for sure...

Looking at the front.. It looks like the arms going from the ram to the steering arms are slightly pointed down - maybe it's just an optical illusion... Knowing little about balanced cylinders, sideloads, and such, was it intentional, or are the angles better there than with the heim on top of the arm? Just taking mental notes for when I do mine in the future...

Awesome work, that 14bolt is :huggy: (I'm assuming there was some ring gear shaving as well?)
 
Thanks Rich........The steering arms are slightly on an angle but it was just how it fell out.I did a ton of research on arm placement/sideloading of the cylinder etc........dont want to bend a 400.00 ram huh?Anyways from what ive seen/ learned/ read the most important thing seems to be keeping the arms in line with the ram at full extension where the ram shaft would be in most danger of being bent due to leverage.So what I did was made the arms to be straight with the ram at full extension and the reason the heims are on bottom is because I dont have the clearance to put the whole thing(ram,arms) up any higher without raising the ride height............hope it makes sense :huggy:
 
Ridgerunner said:
I have a question how does shaving the bottom of the 14 bolt effect the preload on the carrier bearing? The case needs to be spread when installing and seting up the gears but there is now a weak spot.
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You can see the adjusters in this shaot on either side of the carrier caps.You can also see how much I shaved off of the ring gear.
 

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buggybuilder said:
Anyways from what ive seen/ learned/ read the most important thing seems to be keeping the arms in line with the ram at full extension where the ram shaft would be in most danger of being bent due to leverage.So what I did was made the arms to be straight with the ram at full extension and the reason the heims are on bottom is because I dont have the clearance to put the whole thing(ram,arms) up any higher without raising the ride height............hope it makes sense :huggy:
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Makes alot of sense - something I'll keep in mind.

If you happen to have a tape in your hand, and are bored... what's the distance from the centerline of the axle to the bottom of the diff now? That's a sa-weeeet shave, and not much at all looks to be taken off the ring gear...certainly nothing in the gear contact area..

Again.. sweet!
 
Well its right about 5.25 from centerline to bottom of the new plate.I didnt measure before but Im sure its a bit better.Whats this same measurement on a 60?
 

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buggybuilder said:
Well its right about 5.25 from centerline to bottom of the new plate.I didnt measure before but Im sure its a bit better.Whats this same measurement on a 60?
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According to http://www.sunrayengineering.com/compare.html

stock 60 is 6.25"
high clearance 60 is 5.3"
D44 - 5.375"
Sunray's shaved 9 is 4.75", so i'd bet a stock 9 is around 5.5...

Nice thing is - with how you did the cover, it looks like you don't lose much if any of that gain when you roll the pinion up..

I'd like to be around when people ask what kind of axle that is, and you tell them an 11-bolt. :lol:

I've been reading of the different ways to shave the ring gear... the 7" grinder method appeals to me most for the free factor... How'd you do yours?
 
I used the belt sander at work.I set the table on the sander to whatever angle I wanted and held it tight against the table and slowly walked the ring gear around in circles until I got to the dimension I was looking for.Actually I found(some probably already know this) but if you use 2 angles on the shave instead of 1 deep cut you dont have to remove as much.Heres a few pics from the work session today........its gettin there....
 

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